Permits, Guides, Tea Houses & Equipment
Trekking Permits
For all treks in Nepal, you need at least a TIMS permit and often an additional Conservation Area Permit. You can get the permits in Kathmandu (Nepal Tourism Board, Bhrikutimandap) or in Pokhara (Tourist Information). Plan for 1–2 hours and bring passport photos!
| Permit | Price | For Which Treks |
|---|---|---|
| TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) | 2,000 NPR (~13€) | All Treks |
| ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area) | 3,000 NPR (~20€) | Annapurna Circuit, ABC, Poon Hill, Mardi Himal |
| Sagarmatha NP | 3,000 NPR (~20€) | Everest Base Camp |
| Langtang NP | 3,000 NPR (~20€) | Langtang Valley |
| Manaslu Restricted Area | from 100 USD/week | Manaslu Circuit (Guide required!) |
| Upper Mustang | 500 USD/10 days | Upper Mustang (Guide required!) |
Guide vs. Solo — Which is Better?
Nepal allows (as of 2025) both solo trekking and guided trekking on most main routes. The debate is heated, and the government has been discussing a guide requirement for years:
- Solo (without guide): More freedom, cheaper, own pace. Possible on Annapurna, EBC, Langtang, and Poon Hill — the routes are well marked and tea houses provide orientation. BUT: In case of accident, altitude sickness, or getting lost, you are on your own. In winter and snowfall, trail markings can disappear
- With Guide: Safety, local knowledge, cultural exchange, overcoming language barriers, navigation in snow. Required in restricted areas (Manaslu, Upper Mustang). Cost: 25–35€/day. A good guide makes the trek 10× richer — he tells you the history of every village, knows the best tea houses, and negotiates prices for you
- With Porter: A porter carries your luggage (15–25 kg). You hike only with a daypack. Cost: 12–20€/day. Especially recommended for longer treks — your back will thank you. Ethical note: Ensure your porter is adequately equipped (warm clothing, shoes, sunglasses at altitude!)
Tea Houses — Nepal's Unique System
Tea houses are simple mountain lodges along the trekking routes — and the reason why Nepal is the only country in the world where you can trek for weeks at over 5,000 m altitude without a tent or stove.
What to expect:
- Sleeping Place: Simple rooms with 2 beds, thin mattress, and blanket (often only a plywood wall to the next room). No running water at altitude, no heating, no electricity after 9:00 pm. Bring a sleeping bag — above 3,500 m it gets below 0°C at night!
- Food: Dal Bhat (endlessly refillable!), momos, noodles, pancakes, porridge, chapati, fried rice. The menu is surprisingly extensive — at 4,000 m you get "pizza" and "spaghetti" (quality varies). Prices rise with altitude because everything is carried up by porter or yak
- Common Room: The stove in the middle (usually fueled with yak dung at altitude) is the social center. Here you meet other trekkers, exchange stories, and warm up. Seats close to the stove are coveted!
- Toilets: Mostly squat toilet. On the main routes, there are also western toilets at lower altitudes. Bring toilet paper!
- Showers: Hot shower (solar or gas heated) available up to about 3,500 m, costs 200–500 NPR. Above: sponge bath with hot water from the thermos
- Charging: 200–500 NPR per device (phone, power bank). Most tea houses have solar power or small generators
Prices in Tea Houses (Guide Values)
| Item | Low Altitude (2,000–3,000 m) | High Altitude (3,500–5,000 m) |
|---|---|---|
| Bed (double room) | 200–400 NPR (1–3€) | 500–800 NPR (3–5€) |
| Dal Bhat | 400–600 NPR (2.50–4€) | 800–1,200 NPR (5–8€) |
| Momos (10 pcs.) | 300–500 NPR | 600–900 NPR |
| Masala Chai | 50–100 NPR | 150–300 NPR |
| Boiled Water (1l) | 50–100 NPR | 200–400 NPR |
| Charging (phone) | 100–200 NPR | 300–500 NPR |
| Hot Shower | 200–300 NPR | 400–500 NPR (or not available) |
| Wi-Fi (1h) | 200–300 NPR | 500 NPR (or not available) |
Equipment — What You REALLY Need
The good news: You don't need expensive equipment from home. In Thamel (Kathmandu) and Lakeside (Pokhara) you get everything — from down jackets to sleeping bags to trekking poles. Quality and prices:
- Down Jacket: 2,000–8,000 NPR (13–55€). "North Face" is available in real (authorized shops) and as a copy (street shops). Copies last for one trek, but not for expeditions
- Sleeping Bag: Rent 100–200 NPR/day or buy from 3,000 NPR. For EBC/Annapurna Circuit: Minimum comfort temperature -15°C!
- Trekking Shoes: Bring your own — broken-in shoes are worth gold. There are shoes in Thamel (2,000–10,000 NPR), but the fit is a matter of luck
- Trekking Poles: 800–2,000 NPR. Highly recommended for the descent (knees!)
- Power Bank: 20,000 mAh minimum, better 30,000 mAh. In Kathmandu from 2,000 NPR
- Water Filter/SteriPEN: An investment that pays off immediately (no expensive bottled water on the trek)
Altitude Sickness (AMS) — The Most Important Topic
From 2,500 m altitude, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can occur. From 3,500 m it is common. The golden rules:
- Climb high, sleep low: Do not ascend more than 300–500 meters per day (sleeping altitude!)
- Acclimatization Days: Take a rest day every 1,000 meters of altitude
- Drink Plenty: 3–4 liters per day. No alcohol at altitude!
- Recognize Symptoms: Headaches, nausea, insomnia, shortness of breath, loss of appetite
- Lake Louise Score: Headache + at least 1 other symptom = AMS. DO NOT ascend further!
- If Worsening: DESCEND IMMEDIATELY! No excuses, no "it will be better tomorrow". Even 500 m descent brings dramatic improvement
- HACE (Cerebral Edema) & HAPE (Pulmonary Edema): The life-threatening complications. Symptoms: confusion, coordination disorders (HACE), rattling breathing, pink foam (HAPE). Immediate descent and evacuation!
- Diamox (Acetazolamide): Can be taken prophylactically. Available without prescription in Kathmandu's pharmacies (50 NPR for 10 tablets!). 125–250 mg twice daily, starting 1 day before ascending above 3,500 m. Side effects: tingling in fingers and toes, frequent urination, taste changes with carbonated drinks. Discuss with travel doctor!
Achtung
Altitude sickness can affect ANYONE — regardless of age, fitness, or experience. Marathon runners and military athletes are just as at risk as couch potatoes. Every year, people die from altitude sickness on the EBC trek and at Thorong La (Annapurna Circuit) because they ignore the symptoms. Always take headaches and nausea at altitude seriously. The simplest rule: "If you feel bad at altitude and it doesn't get better overnight: GO DOWN." No discussion. No trek in the world is worth your life.
