Southern Albania & UNESCO Cities

Berat is the city seen in every photo of Albania — and for good reason. The "City of a Thousand Windows" owes its nickname to the Ottoman houses that cling to the steep mountainside, their white facades facing the sun, with rows of large windows catching the light. Since 2008, Berat has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site as a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman city structure.

The city lies on the Osum River, dominated by a massive castle, and consists of three historic districts:

• Mangalem: The main district on the west slope — this is where the famous "thousand windows" are located. The houses climb up the slope to the castle. Narrow cobblestone streets, mosques, and Orthodox churches side by side — a symbol of Albanian religious tolerance.
• Gorica: The district on the east side of the river, connected by the historic Gorica Bridge (1780). Similar architecture to Mangalem, but less touristy. The view from Gorica of Mangalem and the castle at sunset is legendary.
• Kalaja (Castle District): A small community still lives within the castle walls today. Berat Castle is one of the largest and oldest in the Balkans — Illyrian foundations, Byzantine churches (with frescoes by Onufri, a significant 16th-century icon painter), Ottoman mosques, and a panoramic view that leaves you speechless.

Must-See Attractions

• Berat Castle (Kalaja): The fortress on the mountain top (187 m above the river) is accessible year-round and free of charge. Inside: several Byzantine churches, the Onufri Museum (outstanding icons, entrance 200 Lek), and inhabited houses. Plan at least 2 hours for the castle.
• Onufri Museum: In the Church of the Assumption within the castle. Houses works by the great icon painter Onufri (16th century), famous for his unique "Onufri Red" — a color that remains not fully deciphered to this day.
• Ethnographic Museum: In a typical 18th-century Ottoman residence in the Mangalem district. Shows how Berat families lived. Entrance: 200 Lek.
• Gorica Bridge: The stone arch bridge over the Osum connects the two halves of the city and is one of Berat's landmarks. Particularly photogenic in the evening with lighting.

Berat can be explored in a day, but two days are better — visit the castle in the morning with clear light, stroll through the streets of Mangalem in the afternoon, dine on the river promenade in the evening, and experience the sunset over the "thousand windows."

Gjirokastra (also Gjirokastër) is the stone counterpart to Berat — and for many travelers the most impressive city in Albania. The "City of Stone" has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005 and owes its name to the massive stone houses with their characteristic slate roofs, which rise like a gray amphitheater up the hillside.

Gjirokastra is located in the Drinos Valley in southern Albania, dominated by one of the largest fortresses in the Balkans. The city is the birthplace of Ismail Kadare (Albania's most famous writer, Nobel Prize in Literature candidate) and — ironically — of Enver Hoxha, the communist dictator. This duality between culture and tyranny permeates the entire city.

Sights

• Gjirokastra Castle: The second largest fortress in the Balkans crowns the city like a jewel. Inside: a military museum, a captured US military aircraft (a propaganda exhibit from the Hoxha era), and a festival amphitheater that hosts the National Folklore Festival every five years. The view from the castle walls over the stone roofs and the Drinos Valley is overwhelming. Entrance: 400 Lek (4€).
• Skenduli House: A restored 18th-century Ottoman mansion — the best-preserved example of typical Gjirokastra architecture. The tour explains the life of the wealthy Bey families. Entrance: 200 Lek.
• Bazaar: The Ottoman bazaar in the lower town with craft shops, souvenirs, and traditional eateries. Less commercial than tourist bazaars elsewhere.
• Birthplace of Enver Hoxha: The dictator's house in the bazaar district (viewable from the outside). An ambivalent place — Albania is still grappling with the legacy of the 45-year dictatorship.
• Cold War Tunnel: An underground bunker from the Hoxha era beneath the castle, serving as a museum of the communist past. Both oppressive and impressive. Entrance: 200 Lek.

Gjirokastra is more compact than Berat — the main attractions can be visited in a day. But those who want to enjoy the atmosphere — the silence in the stone streets at sunrise, a raki in the bazaar, the view from the castle at dusk — should stay for a night.

Butrint (Butrinti) is Albania's most significant archaeological site and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992. The ancient city is located on a peninsula in Lake Butrint, just 20 km south of Saranda, and is surrounded by subtropical vegetation — palms, cypresses, fig trees. The location alone is spectacular.

2,500 Years of History

Butrint was founded in the 7th century BC as a Greek colony and was settled and expanded by every major civilization of the Mediterranean:

• Greek Period: Theater (3rd century BC), Sanctuary of Asclepius, Agora
• Roman Period: Forum, Baths, Aqueduct, Nymphaeum
• Early Christian Period: Baptistery (6th century) with one of the best-preserved floor mosaics in the Mediterranean — animals, plants, and geometric patterns in astonishing colors
• Byzantine Period: Basilica, Fortifications
• Venetian Period: Fortress tower and defensive walls
• Ottoman Period: Castle on the Acropolis Hill

The fascinating aspect of Butrint is the layering of epochs: Roman columns stand next to Byzantine church walls, Venetian towers overlook Greek theaters. You literally walk through 2,500 years of Mediterranean history.

Planning Your Visit

The excavation site is located in a national park with lush vegetation — pleasantly shady even in midsummer. A tour takes 2–3 hours. Entrance: 1,000 Lek (10€). An audio guide or guided tour is recommended — the site is much better understood with context. The information at the entrance has good maps and descriptions.

Getting there from Saranda: Furgon (30 min, 200 Lek) or taxi (1,500 Lek / 15€). By rental car: well signposted, parking available at the entrance. Best time to visit: early morning (less heat and visitors) or in the afternoon from 3 pm.

Permet is Albania's best-kept secret for connoisseurs — a sleepy small town in the Vjosa Valley (one of Europe's last wild rivers), surrounded by mountains, vineyards, and orchards. Permet is famous for three things: the best wine, the best raki, and the best gliko (fruit preserves in sugar syrup) in Albania.

Culinary Delights

Permet is Albania's slow food capital. The region is known for:

• Wine: The Permet Valley produces some of Albania's best wines, especially from the Debina and Shesh i Bardhë grape varieties. Small wineries offer tastings — ask in restaurants about local wineries.
• Raki: Albanian raki (grape brandy, related to Greek Tsipouro) is particularly good in Permet — every family distills their own, and hosts proudly offer you a taste.
• Gliko: Fruit preserves made from walnuts, figs, quinces, cherries, or eggplants (!), cooked in sugar syrup. They are served as a gift or with coffee — a sweet, intense delight and one of the most beautiful souvenirs from Albania.

Bënjë Hot Springs

Just 14 km east of Permet are the hot springs of Bënjë — natural thermal pools on the banks of the Lengarica River, framed by a spectacular gorge with an Ottoman stone arch bridge (18th century). The hot, sulfurous water (30–35°C) mixes with the cool river water — you can choose your favorite temperature. Entrance: 200 Lek (2€). Absolutely magical at sunset or under the stars. The Lengarica Gorge itself is worth an easy hike (2–3h round trip).

Vjosa River

The Vjosa is one of the last wild rivers in Europe — untamed, undammed, and of breathtaking beauty. In 2023, the entire Vjosa basin was declared a national park — the first wild river national park in Europe. From Permet, you can book rafting tours on the Vjosa (from 30€ per person, 3–4h) — an unforgettable experience through turquoise gorges and gentle rapids.