CBD & Laneways — Melbourne's Secret Heart

Melbourne's soul doesn't live on the wide main streets, but in the laneways — a labyrinth of narrow alleys hidden between the blocks of the CBD. Behind unassuming doors and in backyards are the city's best cafés, bars, restaurants, and galleries.

The most famous is Hosier Lane — a narrow alley covered top to bottom with street art that constantly changes. Today's sprayed masterpiece, tomorrow painted over. The art is legal and supported by the city — Melbourne is a world leader in urban art. Next to it, Rutledge Lane and ACDC Lane (yes, named after the Australian band) with more street art and hidden bars.

Centre Place is the liveliest laneway — a narrow alley full of tiny cafés with outdoor seating, where baristas compete for the best flat white. Here, all of Melbourne sits for coffee, laptop on knee, discussing art and politics. Next to it, Degraves Street — the most European alley in Australia with cobblestones and lanterns.

Under the streets hide basement bars: Bar Americano (20 Presgrave Place) has only 10 seats and serves perfect cocktails in the style of a 1950s Italian bar. Eau de Vie (1 Malthouse Lane) is a speakeasy whisky bar behind a hidden door. The Croft Institute (21–25 Croft Alley) is set up in a former research lab — drinks are served in test tubes.