St Kilda — Beach & Luna Park★★
St Kilda is Melbourne's liveliest beach district — 6 km south of the CBD, reachable by the iconic tram line 96 (free in the CBD, then with myki). Once an elegant seaside resort, then a rough bohemian district, today a mix of beach bar culture, backpacker scene, and Sunday strollers.
The St Kilda Esplanade along the beach is perfect for a Sunday stroll — on Sundays, the St Kilda Esplanade Market takes place here (10 am–4 pm, over 200 stalls with arts and crafts). At the end of the St Kilda Pier lives a colony of Little Penguins — at sunset, they waddle back from the sea to their nests in the breakwater. Free, magical, and a secret tip many tourists don't know.
Luna Park (18 Lower Esplanade) is a nostalgic amusement park from 1912 — the giant laughing mouth entrance is a Melbourne landmark. Free entry, rides individually or as an Unlimited Rides Pass (55 AUD). The wooden roller coaster "Scenic Railway" has been running since 1912 and is the oldest continuously operating roller coaster in the world.
Acland Street is St Kilda's gastronomic mile — cafés, cake shops (the Monarch Cake Shop has been serving the best cakes since 1934, from 7 AUD), and restaurants of all nationalities. Fitzroy Street offers bars and pubs with live music — the Hotel Esplanade (The Espy) is a legendary live music venue since 1878.
💡 Tipp
The penguins at St Kilda Pier are best seen at sunset (30 minutes after sunset they come ashore). Go to the end of the breakwater and wait quietly. Flashlights and flash photography are prohibited — the penguins need peace. Free and often better than the Phillip Island Penguin Parade (which costs 30 AUD).