Bornholm — The Sunshine Island

Bornholm (39,000 inhabitants, 588 km²) is Denmark's easternmost island — closer to Sweden and Poland than to Copenhagen. This is an advantage: Bornholm has maintained its independence and feels like a country of its own. The island has everything you expect from Denmark — beaches, hygge, fishing villages — plus some things you don't expect: granite cliffs, medieval fortresses, its own microclimate, and the most sunshine hours in Denmark.

Places on Bornholm

• Rønne — The "capital" (13,000 inhabitants) and ferry port. Colorful half-timbered houses, Bornholm's Museum, ceramic workshops, and the starting point for island tours. Nice city center with cafés and restaurants.
• Gudhjem — The postcard idyll par excellence: a steep fishing village with red half-timbered houses that stretches down a granite ridge to the harbor. Here, the famous Sol over Gudhjem (Sun over Gudhjem) was invented — a smørrebrød with smoked herring, raw egg yolk, chives, and radishes. The name says it all: Gudhjem has the most sunshine hours in Denmark.
• Svaneke — Denmark's best-preserved small town (European Urban Planning Award 1975): colorful half-timbered houses, cobblestones, and the award-winning Svaneke Bryghus (brewery with pub). Glassblowing workshops, ceramic workshops, and a charming harbor.
• Allinge-Sandvig — In the north of the island, gateway to the Hammershus castle ruins and the Helligdomsklipperne (Sanctuary Cliffs). Lively summer resort with restaurants and galleries.
• Nexø — Bornholm's second-largest town, fishing harbor, and home of Bornholm art ceramics. More down-to-earth than Svaneke, with an authentic fishing flair.

Getting There

Ferry: Bornholmerfærgen from Ystad (Sweden, 80 min.) or Køge near Copenhagen (5.5 hrs. night ferry). From Ystad: several times daily, from 249 DKK/person one-way. Flight: DAT flies from Copenhagen (35 min., from 500 DKK one-way). Additional connections in summer. Most visitors take the train to Ystad (from Copenhagen 90 min., combined ticket with ferry available) and cross over there.

Hammershus — Northern Europe's Largest Castle Ruin

The medieval Hammershus castle ruin (from 1250) towers on a 74-meter-high granite cliff above the sea at the northern tip of Bornholm. The mighty complex is the largest castle ruin in Northern Europe — the walls, towers, and casemates are so impressive that you feel like you're in Game of Thrones. The view over the Baltic Sea to Sweden is breathtaking. The modern visitor center by Arkitema explains the history. Admission: castle ruin free, visitor center 100 DKK.

Round Churches (Rundkirker)

Bornholm's most famous architectural peculiarity: four round churches from the 12th century — unique in Denmark and rare in Europe. These massive, cylindrical fortified churches served both as places of worship and as defensive structures against pirates. The frescoes inside are outstanding.

• Østerlars Rundkirke — The largest and oldest, with impressive frescoes.
• Nylars Rundkirke — The best-preserved medieval frescoes.
• Olsker Rundkirke — The slimmest and tallest, on a hill with a panoramic view.
• Nyker Rundkirke — The smallest, in a picturesque village.

Nature Highlights

• Helligdomsklipperne (Sanctuary Cliffs) — Dramatic granite cliffs on the northeast coast, dropping 22 meters steeply into the sea. Hiking trails along the cliffs, boat tours from the sea. The Bornholm Art Museum is spectacularly located on the cliff edge.
• Dueodde — At the southern tip of Bornholm lies one of Europe's finest sandy beaches: snow-white, endlessly wide, and with sand so fine it was once used for hourglasses. In summer: warm enough for swimming (18–22°C), in winter: dramatic and deserted.
• Almindingen — Denmark's third-largest forest in the center of the island with hiking trails, the Rytterknægten observation tower (162 m, Bornholm's highest point), and the mysterious Bornholm standing stones (menhirs).
• Ekkodalen (Echo Valley) — Scandinavia's longest rock cleft: a 12 km long, up to 16 m deep gorge in the forest. The name comes from the remarkable echo that reverberates off the granite walls.

In recent years, Bornholm has developed into Denmark's culinary treasure trove — a local food movement focusing on fresh island products, artisanal tradition, and innovative cuisine. The density of good restaurants, smokehouses, farm shops, and manufactories is astonishing for an island of this size.

Smokehouses (Røgerier)

Bornholm's smokehouses are institutions and a must-visit. In the characteristic white chimneys, herring, salmon, and mackerel have been smoked over alder wood for generations. The tradition lives on — and tastes fantastic:

• Hallegaard Røgeri — In the hills above Allinge, family-run, with organic fish and a garden for outdoor seating. Many consider it the best smokehouse on the island.
• Gudhjem Røgeri — Right at the harbor of Gudhjem. Here you can eat the original Sol over Gudhjem with a view of the sea.
• Hasle Røgeri — The largest and most famous, in a former fish factory at the harbor of Hasle.

Sol over Gudhjem

Bornholm's most famous dish: smoked herring on rye bread, topped with a raw egg yolk (the "sun"), chives, and radishes. Named after the fishing village of Gudhjem and now so iconic that an annual Sol over Gudhjem cooking competition takes place, where Denmark's best chefs present their variations.

Local Products & Manufactories

• Bornholms Lakrids (Karamel Kompagniet) — Handmade licorice caramels from Svaneke, coveted throughout Denmark.
• Svaneke Bryghus — Bornholm's award-winning brewery right at the harbor of Svaneke. Finest craft beer, brewery tours with tastings.
• Bornholmer Eis — Handmade ice cream with local ingredients: caramel, sea buckthorn, licorice. Available on every corner in summer.
• Lehnsgaard Vin & Frugt — Yes, wine on Bornholm! The sunny island actually has a vineyard with local wine, apple juice, and cider.

Bornholm has established itself as a gourmet destination without losing its rustic soul. Freshly smoked fish at the harbor, a Bornholm beer to go with it, a view of the sea — Denmark doesn't get any better.

Bornholm is made for cyclists: 235 km of developed bike paths (many on former railway tracks, hence flat and car-free), short distances between places, and a varied landscape. The entire island can be circled in 3–5 days.

Bike Paths

• Bornholm Round Path — About 105 km around the island, mostly on dedicated bike paths. The northern route (Rønne → Allinge → Gudhjem) is hillier, the southern route (Rønne → Dueodde → Nexø) flatter. 3–5 days recommended, with stops in Gudhjem, Svaneke, and Dueodde.
• Railway Track Bike Paths — Bornholm's former railway tracks have been converted into car-free bike paths: flat, paved, and perfect for families. The route Rønne–Gudhjem–Allinge (about 35 km) is the most popular.

Other Activities

• Hiking — Bornholm has over 120 km of marked hiking trails. Especially beautiful: the coastal hiking trail at the Helligdomsklipperne, the forest path through Almindingen, and the cliff hike at Hammershus.
• Climbing — The granite cliffs at Vang (Opalsøen, the sunken granite quarry) offer climbing routes for all difficulty levels — Bornholm's best-kept outdoor secret.
• Kayaking — Paddle along the coast, discover caves and rock formations, rest on secluded beach sections. Kayak rental in Gudhjem and Hasle.
• Fishing — Bornholm is a top fishing destination: sea trout from the coast (October–April), salmon from the boat (March–June), cod all year round. A fishing license is required (available daily).
• Ceramics & Art — Bornholm is an artist's island: dozens of ceramic, glass, and craft workshops invite you to visit and buy. Grønbechs Gård in Hasle is an art space in a former smokehouse. The art museum at the Helligdomsklipperne showcases Bornholm art with a spectacular sea view.

Bornholm is big enough for a week — and after a week, you won't want to leave. The island has everything in miniature: beaches, cliffs, forests, culture, cuisine, and a tranquility that is addictive.