French Polynesia: Land & People

The Polynesian settlement occurred between approximately 200 BC and 1000 AD from Western Polynesia (Samoa, Tonga). The Marquesas are considered the starting point for further settlement of Eastern Polynesia (Hawaii, Easter Island, New Zealand).

Europeans: In 1767 Wallis discovered Tahiti for Europe, 1768 Bougainville. Captain James Cook arrived in 1769 with the HMS Endeavour to observe the transit of Venus. 1789 Mutiny on the Bounty (Fletcher Christian rebelled against William Bligh on the return journey from Tahiti).

1842 French protectorate, 1880 annexation. Since 1946 French overseas territory, since 2003 Collectivité d'outre-mer with extensive autonomy, part of the EU.

In the 20th century: France's nuclear tests on Moruroa and Fangataufa (1966-1996, over 190 tests) — still a political and health issue today.

The Polynesian culture of French Polynesia is vibrant and actively maintained:

• Reo Tahiti (Tahitian) — official language alongside French, taught in schools
• 'Ori Tahiti — traditional Polynesian dances (Tamure, Aparima, Otea). Each year at the Heiva, the best dance groups are awarded
• Tattooing (Tatau) — the Marquesas tradition is considered the origin of modern tattoos
• Hei (Flower Garland) — visitors are traditionally greeted with flower garlands upon arrival
• Tiare Tahiti — the white national flower, worn behind the ear (left = taken, right = single)
• Maohi Renaissance — revival of Polynesian language, mythology, navigation skills

Famous Admirers of Tahiti

• Paul Gauguin — spent his last years in French Polynesia (1891-1903), died on Hiva Oa
• Henri Matisse — visited Tahiti in 1930
• Jacques Brel — the Belgian chansonnier lived his last years on Hiva Oa, died in 1978
• Marlon Brando — owned the atoll Tetiaroa until his death

The cuisine combines Polynesian ingredients (coconut, taro, sweet potato, breadfruit) with French influence and Chinese elements (many descendants of Chinese immigrants run restaurants).

Signature Dishes

• Poisson Cru (E'ia Ota) — the national dish: raw tuna marinated in coconut milk and lime juice, with vegetables. Comparable to ceviche, but milder
• Tartare de Thon — raw tuna, French variant
• Poulet Fafa — chicken braised in taro leaves and coconut milk
• Mahi Mahi — grilled or with vanilla sauce (Tahiti vanilla is world-famous)
• Ahima'a — traditional feast cooked in an earth oven (Saturdays in some pensions)
• Chao Fan — Chinese-Polynesian fried rice (a standard at roulottes)
• Ma'a Tinito — Chinese-Polynesian Sunday meal

Beverages

• Hinano — local beer (named after the Tahiti legend)
• Tahitian Rum from Taha'a
• Coconut water fresh from the nut

Where to Eat

• Roulottes — food trucks at Place Vaiete in Papeete, Moorea harbor. Authentic and affordable
• Pension de famille — many offer half-board with Polynesian home cooking
• Hotel Restaurants — upscale Polynesian-French fusion