Tbilisi (Tbilisi)

Tbilisi (in Georgian Tbilisi, from "tbili" = warm, named after the hot sulfur springs) is a city that defies categorization. 1.2 million inhabitants live in a metropolis that stretches along the Kura (Mtkvari) through a narrow valley — surrounded by hills crowned with fortresses and monasteries.

The special thing about Tbilisi is the simultaneity: Next to a church from the 6th century stands a Soviet-era apartment block, next to it an Art Deco palace with Art Nouveau balconies, and on the ground floor, an artist collective has opened a wine bar. Tbilisi is simultaneously ancient and hypermodern, oriental and European, decaying and flourishing.

Plan at least 3–4 days for Tbilisi. The old town, the baths, the museums, the food scene, the nightlife — each day feels like an exploration.

★★★ Old Town (Dzveli Tbilisi)

The Old Town of Tbilisi is an architectural wonderland. Here, Persian houses with carved wooden balconies stand next to Georgian stone houses, Art Nouveau facades, and Soviet structures. Many buildings are dilapidated — but that's precisely what adds to the charm. In the courtyards, laundry dries next to grapevines, the scent of fresh bread wafts from the cellars, and a new wine bar opens on every corner.

The main streets: Shardeni Street (bars and restaurants), Erekle II Street (main axis of the Old Town), Leselidze Street (souvenir shops and galleries).

★★★ Narikala Fortress

The Narikala Fortress has perched on a rocky ridge above the Old Town since the 4th century. The current walls date from the Arab (7th century) and Mongol periods (13th century). From here, you have the best panoramic view over all of Tbilisi — the Old Town at your feet, the Kura below, the Sameba Cathedral opposite, and Mtatsminda Mountain in the background.

Within the walls stands the Nikoloz Church (rebuilt in 1996) with frescoes of Georgian saints. Below it: the gigantic Kartlis Deda statue (Mother of Georgia) — 20 meters high, with a sword in one hand (for enemies) and a wine goblet in the other (for friends). This perfectly sums up Georgia.

Accessible on foot (steep, 20 min. from the Old Town) or by cable car from Rike Park (2.50 GEL, 2 min.). The cable car itself offers a fantastic view. Free access, 24/7.

★★★ Bridge of Peace

The futuristic pedestrian bridge by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi (2010) spans the Kura like a glass wave. At night, it is illuminated in changing LED colors — a symbol of the new Georgia. Connects the Old Town with Rike Park and Europe Square.

★★ Sioni Cathedral

The main cathedral of Tbilisi (6th–7th century, repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt) houses one of Georgia's holiest relics: the Cross of Saint Nino, the apostle who Christianized Georgia in the 4th century. The cross is made of two entwined grapevines, bound with Nino's hair.

★★ Anchiskhati Basilica

The oldest surviving church in Tbilisi (6th century). Small, simple, but of enormous historical significance. The 17th-century iconostasis is a masterpiece of goldsmithing.

★★★ Abanotubani — The Bath District

Tbilisi owes its name and existence to the natural sulfur springs that have bubbled up from the earth here for millennia. The Bath District Abanotubani with its characteristic brick vaults is the historical heart of the city — and one of the most unique experiences in all of Georgia.

The baths have operated on the same principle since the 13th century: Natural, sulfur-rich thermal water (approx. 40–50°C) flows into underground pools where you can wash, soak, and get massaged. The smell of sulfur (egg smell) takes some getting used to at first, but your skin and muscles will thank you.

The Most Important Baths

• Chreli Abano (Colorfully Tiled Bath): The most photogenic bath with its turquoise-blue tiled facade. Private cabins from simple to luxurious. From 30 GEL (9€) for a private room (1 hour). Massage extra (20–30 GEL).
• Orbeliani Bath: The iconic blue-tiled facade in Persian style is the landmark of the district. Renovated and comfortable. Private rooms from 50 GEL.
• Royal Bath: Historically the bath of kings. More upscale atmosphere. Private rooms from 70 GEL.
• Bath No. 5: The people's bath — public pools (men and women separated) for only 5 GEL (1.50€). Most authentic experience, but rustic.

What to Expect?

In a private room (recommended for first-time visitors):

1. You get a vaulted room with a hot sulfur pool, a cold shower, and a stone bench.
2. Soak in the hot water (15–20 min.).
3. Optional: Kisi Massage — a masseur scrubs you with a rough glove (Kisi) and "kneads" every muscle. Sounds brutal, feels fantastic afterwards.
4. Alternate between hot and cold until you feel reborn.

Alexander Pushkin wrote in 1829: "I have experienced nothing more luxurious in my life than the baths of Tbilisi." That holds true to this day.

★★★ Rustaveli Avenue

The Rustaveli Avenue is Tbilisi's grand boulevard — a 1.5 km cultural mile named after the medieval poet Shota Rustaveli. Lined with plane trees, with neoclassical and Art Deco facades, theaters, museums, and the opera. Here, you stroll, drink coffee, and feel the confidence of a city that knows its worth.

• Georgian National Museum: The archaeological treasure trove of the Caucasus. Gold from Colchis (3rd millennium BC), Dmanisi skull (1.8 million years old — the oldest human outside Africa!), and the Soviet occupation exhibition. 15 GEL.
• Rustaveli Theatre: The most important theater in Georgia in a magnificent building from 1887.
• Georgian National Opera: Opera and ballet in a Moorish-style building (1896). Tickets from 10 GEL — a cultural experience for almost nothing.
• Parliament of Georgia: The imposing building at the end of the avenue, the site of the demonstrations for independence in 1989 and the Rose Revolution in 2003.

★★ Fabrika

The former Soviet sewing machine factory in the Marjanishvili district is Tbilisi's creative nerve center. On the premises are:

• A hostel (one of the best in the city)
• Coworking spaces
• Dozens of bars, cafes, and restaurants in the courtyard
• Art galleries and pop-up shops
• A tattoo studio and a record store

On weekends, the courtyard transforms into a flea market with vintage clothing, vinyl, and Georgian design. Fabrika is the place where creatives, digital nomads, and locals meet.

★★ Mtatsminda Park & Funicular

The Mtatsminda Park (Holy Mountain) is located 770 meters above sea level at the highest point over Tbilisi. A nostalgic funicular (since 1903) takes you up in 5 minutes (2 GEL). At the top: an amusement park with retro charm, a TV tower, and the best panoramic view over the entire city. In clear weather, you can see the peaks of the Greater Caucasus.

★★ Sameba Cathedral (Holy Trinity Cathedral)

The largest Orthodox church in the Caucasus (consecrated in 2004) towers on Elia Hill over Avlabari. 84 meters high, golden-domed, visible from afar. The dimensions inside are overwhelming — the iconostasis, the crypt, and the modern frescoes impress even non-churchgoers. Free of charge.

Tbilisi as a Culinary Capital

Tbilisi is experiencing a culinary renaissance. Alongside traditional restaurants (where Khinkali and Khachapuri reign), a young food scene has developed that combines Georgian tradition with modern influences. And everywhere: wine, wine, wine.

Wine Bars — The Best Addresses

Tbilisi has one of the most exciting natural wine scenes in the world. Georgian Qvevri wine (fermented in clay vessels, amber-colored) was the insider tip — now it's celebrated internationally.

• Vino Underground: The first natural wine bar in Georgia, in a cellar in the Old Town. Only Georgian natural wines from small producers. Tasting flights from 15 GEL. The epicenter of the scene.
• g.Vino: Chic wine bar at Erekle Square with over 500 Georgian wines. Excellent food to accompany. Terrace seating with views of the Old Town.
• Wine Factory N1: In a former wine factory. Huge selection, cozy atmosphere, regular wine tastings.

Where to Eat in Tbilisi?

• Samikitno: The best address for traditional Georgian cuisine. Huge portions, all the classics, affordable. Always busy — expect a wait.
• Shavi Lomi (Black Lion): Modern-Georgian cuisine in a beautifully renovated Old Town house. Tradition meets innovation here.
• Café Leila: Georgian-Middle Eastern fusion cuisine in a charming side alley. Excellent brunch.
• Machakhela: Chain with many branches, but top-notch Khinkali — the locals swear by it. Veal Khinkali from 0.80 GEL per piece.
• Tone (Bakeries): The round earth oven bakeries (Tone) are everywhere in the Old Town. Fresh Shotis Puri (bread) for 1 GEL — warm, crispy, with a charcoal aroma. In the morning, watch the bakers slap the dough onto the oven wall.

Markets

• Dezerter Bazaar: Tbilisi's largest market behind the train station. Mountains of fruits, vegetables, spices, cheese, Churchkhela, and everything the Georgian kitchen needs. Locals shop here — prices are a fraction of restaurant prices.
• Dry Bridge Flea Market: On weekends, artists, retirees, and collectors sell everything on the Dry Bridge: Soviet medals, old daggers, paintings, vintage jewelry, stamps, and curiosities. THE place for unique souvenirs.

★★★ David Gareja — Cave Monastery in the Semi-Desert

One of the most extraordinary places in Georgia lies 60 km southeast of Tbilisi, on the border with Azerbaijan: the David Gareja Cave Monastery. Founded in the 6th century by the Syrian monk David Garejeli, the complex includes over 5,000 rock-hewn cells, churches, and chapels spread across a barren mountain ridge in a surreal semi-desert landscape.

What to See

• Lavra Monastery: The main monastery at the foot of the mountain. Still inhabited by monks today, with a 6th-century church and rock-hewn cells. The atmosphere of seclusion is palpable.
• Udabno Caves: On the backside of the mountain ridge (20 min. ascent) are dozens of cave churches with unique frescoes from the 10th–13th centuries. Scenes from the life of Christ, painted with a color intensity that still impresses after 1,000 years. Many frescoes are unfortunately damaged by vandalism.
• The Landscape: The dry, barren semi-desert with its gentle hills is reminiscent of Central Asia or the Middle East — a total contrast to the green rest of Georgia. In spring, the steppe briefly blooms.

Getting There

There is no public transport to David Gareja. Options:

• Organized Tour: From Tbilisi, half-day (approx. 50–70 GEL per person), including transport and guide. Bookable through hostels and tour providers.
• Taxi/Driver: Round trip approx. 100–150 GEL (30–45€). Driver waits while you explore the complex (2–3 hours).
• Rental Car: The last 20 km are unpaved — doable with a regular car in dry weather, but slowly.

Free of charge. No admission. Bring water and sun protection — there is nothing on site! The ascent to the Udabno Caves is steep and strenuous in the heat. Best time: spring or autumn.