South

The End of the World, in the Best Sense

Si Phan Don (ສີ່ພັນດອນ, "4000 Islands") is an archipelago in the Mekong, at the very south of Laos, just before the Cambodian border. Here, the mighty Mekong breaks into thousands of channels and islands — from tiny rock slabs to inhabited islands with villages, rice fields, and water buffaloes. It is the place where Laos tastes most like Laos: slow, peaceful, far away from everything.

Don Det — The Backpacker Island

Don Det is the main tourist island and an old-school backpacker paradise. Hammocks over the Mekong, cheap bungalows right on the water, no cars (only bicycles and motorcycles), no stress. The East Side (Sunrise Side) is for early risers, the West Side (Sunset Side) for sunset romantics.

• Sunsets: On the Sunset Side, the Mekong sunsets are legendary — pink, orange, gold, with a BeerLao and the sound of the river
• Cycling: Rent a bicycle (10,000 LAK/day) and cycle over the old French railway bridge to Don Khon
• Tubing: Leisurely floating on the Mekong in a car tire — less party than in Vang Vieng, more relaxation

Don Khon — The Quieter Sister

Don Khon is connected to Don Det by an old French railway bridge (a remnant of the colonial Mekong railway that bypassed the rapids) and is significantly quieter. Here you will find:

• Li Phi Waterfalls (Somphamit): Dramatic rapids and waterfalls at the west end of the island. 35,000 LAK entrance fee. Roaring in the rainy season, picturesque in the dry season.
• Irrawaddy Dolphins: At the southern end of Don Khon, with some luck, you can observe the last Irrawaddy freshwater dolphins in the Mekong. Boat tours from 60,000 LAK (20 min.). Best chances: early morning or late afternoon, dry season (Nov–May). Only a few animals remain — a sad but all the more precious sight.
• Villages: Cycle through the villages with stilt houses, water buffaloes on the road, and playing children. Here, Laos is still unspoiled.

Southeast Asia's Coffee Paradise

The Bolaven Plateau (ພູພຽງບໍລະເວນ) rises 1,000–1,350 m above the Mekong lowlands and offers a cool climate, red earth, lush vegetation, and the best coffee in Southeast Asia. The plateau was once developed by the French as a coffee-growing area — today, hundreds of small farmers produce world-class Arabica and Robusta coffee.

Coffee Plantations

• Jhai Coffee House: Fairtrade coffee project with a tour of the plantation and tasting. Learn everything from cultivation to roasting.
• Sinouk Coffee Resort: Luxurious plantation with its own hotel, restaurant, and breathtaking views. Plantation tour included.
• Mr. Vieng's Organic Farm: Small organic farm with a personal tour of the cultivation — as authentic as it gets.

Waterfalls

The plateau is crisscrossed by rivers that plunge over the edges in spectacular waterfalls:

• Tad Fane: The most dramatic waterfall in Laos — two parallel streams plunge 120 m into a jungle gorge. A viewpoint (free) offers the best view. Zipline over the gorge for adrenaline junkies (400,000 LAK).
• Tad Yuang: 40 m high, wide waterfall surrounded by coffee plantations. Swimming in the pool below is possible. 10,000 LAK entrance fee.
• Tad Lo: Several cascades near the village of the same name, which is a popular overnight stop. Village homestays, elephant camp (ethically questionable — inform yourself beforehand).
• Tad Champi & Tad Gneuang: Less visited falls, perfect for explorers.

Bolaven Loop

The Bolaven Loop is one of the most popular motorcycle routes in Southeast Asia: a circuit over the plateau (approx. 350 km for the large loop, 200 km for the small one). 2–4 days by motorcycle or scooter, past waterfalls, coffee plantations, ethnic villages (Katu, Alak, Suay), and through breathtaking landscapes.

• Motorcycle rental in Pakse: 80,000–120,000 LAK/day (automatic scooter) or 150,000 LAK (semi-automatic)
• Accommodation in guesthouses along the route: 50,000–100,000 LAK

The Laotian Angkor

On the west bank of the Mekong, 40 km south of Pakse, lies the sleepy town of Champasak — once the capital of a mighty kingdom, today a village with dusty streets and colonial facades. The reason to come here: Wat Phou (ວັດພູ), a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest and most atmospheric temples in Southeast Asia.

Wat Phou

The Vat Phou (Temple of the Mountain) is a Khmer temple that is older than Angkor Wat. The first structures date from the 5th century (Chenla period), with most of the preserved structures from the 11th–13th centuries. The temple is dramatically located on the slope of Phou Kao (1,397 m) and overlooks the vast Mekong plain.

The Ascent

• Lower Level: Two palaces (Men's and Women's Palace) flank a ceremonial path lined with stone lingas (Hindu phallic symbols). Once a reservoir (Baray) — now dried up.
• Middle Level: The staircase up, past frangipani trees lining the way. Naga balustrades and views over the plain.
• Upper Level (Sanctuary): The heart — a small, weathered sandstone temple with fine reliefs (Vishnu, Shiva, Krishna). Behind it: a sacred spring emerging from the rock and flowing over a linga, as well as an "Elephant Stone" and a "Crocodile Stone" — enigmatic rock formations.

Wat Phou Festival

In February (full moon of the 3rd lunar month), the Wat Phou Festival takes place — three days of light processions, boat races, music, dance, and religious ceremonies. The largest festival in southern Laos.

Pakse — Gateway to the South

Pakse (ປາກເຊ) is the largest city in the south and the logistical hub for everything south of Vientiane: 4000 Islands, Bolaven Plateau, Champasak. The city itself is not a tourist highlight, but a pleasant place to recharge, with a lively market (Dao Heuang Market), good restaurants, and a Mekong promenade.

• Dao Heuang Market: The largest market in the region — fresh fruit, spices, dry goods, textiles. This is where the locals shop.
• Mekong Promenade: At the confluence of the Mekong and Se Don. Evening street food stalls and sunset.
• Champasak Historical Heritage Museum: Small but informative collection on the history of the region.

Khone Phapheng Falls

The Khone Phapheng Falls (ນ້ຳຕົກຕາດຄອນພະເພັງ) are the widest waterfalls in Southeast Asia — and one of the most impressive natural sights on the continent. The entire Mekong plunges here over a width of several hundred meters before continuing into Cambodia. The water masses in the rainy season (July–October) are apocalyptic — a roar that can be felt throughout the body.

• Location: 15 km south of Don Khon, on the east side of the Mekong. Accessible by tuk-tuk from Nakasang or Ban Hat Xai Khoun.
• Entrance: 35,000 LAK
• Viewpoints: Several platforms offer different perspectives on the falls. The lower viewpoint is the closest — spray included.

Tad Fane Waterfall

Located on the Bolaven Plateau (→ see Bolaven chapter), but included here for completeness: Two parallel waterfalls that plunge 120 m into a forested gorge. A viewpoint at the edge of the gorge offers a dramatic panorama. For adventurers: a zipline stretches across the entire gorge (400,000 LAK). For everyone else: a coffee at the viewpoint will suffice.