Antananarivo & Highlands

Antananarivo—briefly Tana—is a city that polarizes. For some, it's a chaotic transit camp on the way to the national parks; for others, an underrated gem with a history dating back to the 17th century. The truth lies in between: Tana is loud, dusty, congested—and simultaneously full of charm if you look closely.

The city stretches over twelve hills on a plateau at 1,200–1,400 m altitude, providing pleasantly cool temperatures (15–25°C). At the top sits the Rova (Royal Palace, currently under reconstruction), while life bustles in the streets of the lower town. In between: steep alleys, colorful colonial buildings, crowded markets, and traffic chaos that amazes even seasoned travelers.

Plan 1–2 days for Tana—enough to explore the old town, the Zoma market, and Ambohimanga before heading out to the regions.

Rova of Antananarivo (Royal Palace)

The Rova sits atop the highest hill in the city and was the seat of the Merina kings and queens for centuries. The complex was destroyed by a devastating fire in 1995 and has been under reconstruction ever since. The exterior can be visited and offers a spectacular 360-degree view over the city and the surrounding rice fields. The history of the Rova—from Queen Ranavalona I to the French colonization—is captivating.

Ambohimanga — UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Kings' Hill of Ambohimanga, 21 km north of Tana, is Madagascar's most important historical site and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001. King Andrianampoinimerina (1787–1810), who united Madagascar, resided here. The wooden palaces, fortifications, and sacred forest are remarkably well-preserved. For many Malagasy, Ambohimanga remains a pilgrimage site—please show respect and follow the Fady (taboos). Admission: approx. 5€, guide recommended.

Andafiavaratra Palace

The former Prime Minister's Palace in the Haute Ville houses a museum with artifacts of the Merina monarchy: thrones, royal garments, historical photographs. The pink building itself is an architectural highlight. Admission: approx. 3€.

Zoma Market & Analakely

The Zoma was once the largest open-air market in the world—today it is smaller but still overwhelming. Spices, vanilla, raffia baskets, wood carvings, semi-precious stones, and everything Madagascar produces can be found here. Friday is the biggest market day. Caution: pickpockets are active—secure your valuables.

Lac Anosy & Botanical Garden

The Lac Anosy in the south of the city is an artificial lake with a memorial column for the fallen of the First World War. Cattle egrets nest in the middle, and sometimes turtles can be seen. The nearby Parc de Tsimbazaza (Zoo and Botanical Garden) showcases endemic animals like lemurs, fossas, and crocodiles—in simple conditions, but educational.

The central highlands south of Tana are the most scenically spectacular stretch on the Route Nationale 7—and a standalone destination that many visitors pass through too quickly.

Antsirabe — The City of Good Water

Antsirabe (175 km south of Tana, 3–4h) is situated at an altitude of 1,500 m and was a thermal spa resort during the colonial era. The city has a charming colonial core with wide boulevards, pousse-pousse (rickshaws), and the old thermal bath Hôtel des Thermes (renovated, open for visits). Antsirabe is Madagascar's craft center:

• Gemstone workshops: Madagascar is rich in sapphires, tourmalines, and amethysts. In Antsirabe, you can visit workshops and buy directly.
• Miniature model workshops: Astonishingly detailed models of cars, planes, and ships are crafted from recycled materials (tin cans, bicycle parts).
• Zebu horn carvings: Combs, jewelry, and figures made from the horns of Madagascar's zebu cattle.

Around Antsirabe: The Lac Tritriva (30 km), a crater lake in an extinct volcano, surrounded by a tragic love legend. The Lac Andraikiba offers picnic opportunities by the shore.

Ambositra — Capital of Wood Carving

Ambositra (90 km south of Antsirabe) is the center of Zafimaniry wood carving—a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage since 2003. The Zafimaniry live in the mountains east of the city and decorate their wooden houses and everyday objects with geometric patterns that endure through generations. In Ambositra, carving workshops and souvenir shops line the streets.

The rice terraces between Antsirabe and Ambositra are among the most beautiful landscapes in Madagascar: emerald green steps hugging the hills, interspersed with eucalyptus and red laterite paths. In the morning light, the scenery is breathtaking.

Dining in Antananarivo

Tana has the best restaurant scene in Madagascar—from the street food around the corner to the French-inspired gourmet temple. The density of good restaurants, especially in the Haute Ville, is remarkable:

• La Varangue: Upscale restaurant in a colonial townhouse in the upper city. French-Malagasy fusion cuisine, stylish ambiance, main courses 10–25€. Reservation recommended.
• Restaurant Sakamanga: An institution in Tana—located in the hotel of the same name. Zebu steak, seafood, local classics. 5–15€ per dish. Live music on weekends.
• Hotely (street kitchens): Everywhere in the lower city. Rice (vary) with beef (hen'omby), chicken (akoho), or beans (tsaramaso), along with broth (ro). A complete meal for 1–2€.
• Pâtisseries: The French heritage lives on in the bakeries. Croissants, pain au chocolat, and baguette are surprisingly good in Tana and cost 0.20–0.50€.

Safety in Tana

Tana is generally safe during the day if you exercise normal caution: do not wear valuables openly, carry your backpack in front, watch out for pickpockets (especially at the Zoma market and in crowds). Do not walk at night—always take a taxi. The lower city (Analakely) is deserted and unsafe after dark. The Haute Ville and the hotels in Isoraka are safer.

Transport in Tana

The city lacks a functioning public transport system. Get around by taxi (within the city 1–4€, always negotiate the price beforehand!) or on foot (in the upper city, this is quite possible). From Ivato Airport: Taxi 15–25€, pre-booking a transfer through the hotel is the least stressful option.