North — Nosy Be, Diego Suarez & Ankarana

Nosy Be (Malagasy: "big island") is Madagascar's most popular beach destination — a 320 km² volcanic island in the northwest, surrounded by an archipelago of dozens of small islands. Nosy Be is also called "Perfume Island" due to the ylang-ylang plantations, whose sweet scent fills the air.

Beaches & Islands

• Nosy Iranja: The ultimate dream island — two islands connected by a snow-white sandbank that emerges from the turquoise water at low tide. 90 min. by boat from Nosy Be. Turtles nest here, and the underwater world is spectacular. Day trip: 40–70€ including lunch.
• Nosy Komba: The "Lemur Island," 30 min. by boat. In the village of Ampangorina, semi-wild black lemurs live, climbing onto your shoulder (cute but controversial — feeding wild animals fosters dependency). Snorkeling at the coral reefs, craft market in the village.
• Nosy Tanikely: Marine reserve with the best snorkeling in all of Madagascar: sea turtles, rays, clownfish, intact coral formations in crystal-clear water. Entrance: approx. 5€. Half-day trip from Nosy Be.
• Nosy Sakatia: Quiet island west of Nosy Be, perfect for diving and kayaking. Fewer tourists, more nature.
• Andilana Beach: The most beautiful beach on Nosy Be itself — powder-white sand, turquoise water, sunset side.

Diving & Snorkeling

The waters around Nosy Be are among the best diving areas in the Indian Ocean. Visibility ranges from 20–40 meters, water temperatures from 25–30°C, and a variety of marine life from manta rays to whale sharks to nudibranchs. There are plenty of dive schools — a dive costs 35–60€, a PADI Open Water course 300–400€. From October to December, the chances of seeing whale sharks are highest.

Practical Information

Nosy Be has its own airport (Fascene, NOS) with direct flights from Tana (1h, 100–200€), seasonally also from Europe (Air France, Edelweiss). The main town Hell-Ville (Andoany) has banks, a colorful market, restaurants, and colonial architecture reminiscent of better days. The infrastructure is good by Malagasy standards, but prices are significantly higher than on the mainland.

Diego Suarez (officially Antsiranana) is located at the northern tip of Madagascar and boasts the second-largest natural bay in the world — after Rio de Janeiro. The city is a vibrant melting pot with influences from France, Arabia, India, and East Africa, surrounded by a landscape ranging from rainforest to dry savannas to spectacular bays.

Emerald Bay (Baie des Dunes / Mer d'Émeraude)

The Mer d'Émeraude (Emerald Sea) is a lagoon of such unreal turquoise that you can hardly believe your eyes. Protected by a coral barrier, the water is crystal-clear, shallow, and warm — perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and picnicking on a deserted sand island. The boat tour from Diego takes 30 min. and costs 20–40€ per person including lunch (fresh fish grilled on the beach).

Montagne d'Ambre (Amber Mountain)

The Parc National Montagne d'Ambre, 30 km south of Diego, is a humid mountain rainforest at 1,000–1,400 m — a green oasis amid the dry northern half. Here, chameleons of all sizes live (from the tiny Brookesia to the panther chameleon), the Sanford's brown lemur, the crowned lemur, and over 75 bird species. Waterfalls, crater lakes, and well-marked trails make the park a perfect day trip.

The Three Bays (Trois Baies)

South of Diego are three consecutive dream beaches: Baie des Dunes, Baie des Pigeons, and Baie des Sakalava. The latter is a world-renowned kite spot — from May to November, the Varatraza wind blows reliably, making the bay a paradise for kitesurfers. Even without a kite: The white beaches and turquoise sea are breathtaking.

Getting There

Flight from Tana to Diego (Arrachart Airport, approx. 1.5h, Air Madagascar, 100–200€). By road, Diego is accessible via the RN6 from Ambanja (7–8h) — an adventurous route through the north. From Nosy Be: Speedboat to Ankify (45 min.), then taxi-brousse to Diego (6–8h).

The Ankarana National Park is located halfway between Diego Suarez and Ambanja — an 18,225-hectare limestone plateau that hosts the second-largest Tsingy formations in Madagascar (after Bemaraha). But Ankarana offers more than just Tsingy: caves, underground rivers, crocodile lakes, and surprisingly rich wildlife.

Tsingy & Caves

• Tsingy Meva & Tsingy Rary: Not as tall as in Bemaraha, but equally fascinating — and much easier to reach. Short hikes (1–3 hours) lead through the needle karst labyrinth.
• Grotte des Chauves-Souris: A huge cave where thousands of bats hang upside down from the ceiling. The smell is intense, the spectacle at dusk is spectacular.
• Lac Vert (Green Lake): An emerald-green lake hidden deep in a Tsingy gorge, home to Nile crocodiles. Swimming: definitely not recommended.

Wildlife

Ankarana is surprisingly rich in species: 11 lemur species (including the rare Ankarana sportive lemur), fossas (Madagascar's largest predator, a type of giant mongoose), chameleons, boas, and countless birds. The guides know the best spots for sightings.

Practical Information

The park is located on the RN6 between Diego Suarez and Ambanja. The main entrance is at Mahamasina (campsite available). The trails are well-marked and easily walkable in the dry season (May–November). A guide is mandatory. Ankarana can be easily planned as a stop on the way between Diego and Nosy Be (1–2 days are sufficient).

The north of Madagascar offers the best underwater world in the country — and one of the best in the entire Indian Ocean. The combination of warm water, nutrient-rich currents, and protected marine areas ensures a diversity that attracts divers and snorkelers from all over the world.

Whale Sharks (October–December)

The whale sharks off Nosy Be are among the absolute highlights: The gentle giants (up to 12 m long) come to the plankton-rich waters from October to December. Snorkeling alongside a whale shark is an experience that will be etched in your memory. Special whale shark tours are offered by dive schools (50–80€ per person). Important: Reputable providers keep their distance and prohibit touching the animals.

Manta Rays

At the spot known as Manta Point off Nosy Be, manta rays are regularly sighted — especially between September and November. Their wingspan of up to 4 meters and their graceful movements are an underwater ballet.

Coral Reefs

The reefs around Nosy Tanikely, Nosy Sakatia, and the Mitsio Islands (north of Nosy Be) are among the healthiest in Madagascar. Here, Napoleon wrasses, moray eels, nudibranchs, groupers, and with luck even whitetip reef sharks can be found. The Mitsio Islands are a hidden gem for experienced divers — remote, untouched, and with dramatic underwater landscapes.

Dive Centers

Nosy Be has a dozen professional dive schools, most in Ambatoloaka and Madirokely. PADI-certified, with modern equipment and experienced guides. Prices: Introductory dive from 50€, fun dive from 35€, PADI Open Water from 300€. Snorkeling equipment can be rented almost everywhere for 5–10€ per day.