North: Khövsgöl Lake & Terelj

The Khövsgöl Lake (Хөвсгөл нуур) is the second-largest freshwater lake in Asia after Lake Baikal, with which it is geologically related: 136 km long, 262 m deep, and so crystal clear that you can see up to 20 m to the bottom. It contains 2% of the world's freshwater and is of breathtaking beauty — surrounded by dense larch forests, gentle mountains, and a silence that penetrates deep into the bones.

The lake is located at an altitude of 1,645 m, and the landscape is more reminiscent of Switzerland or Canada than the Mongolian steppe you know from the south. Instead of endless grass plains: dark forests, clear streams, moss-covered rocks, and air that smells of larch resin. In winter, the entire lake freezes over — the ice sheet becomes so thick that the Mongolians hold horse races on the ice and drive jeeps over the frozen lake.

Activities at Khövsgöl Lake

• Horseback Riding: Multi-day rides along the western shore through forests and over ridges (3–7 days, from 80€/day). The landscape is made for riding — gentle hills, soft forest floors, secluded beaches.
• Kayaking: The crystal-clear water invites paddling — kayak rental on the western shore, from 20€/day. On a quiet morning, when the lake is like a mirror and the mountains double in the water: pure bliss.
• Hiking: Trekking along the eastern shore to remote nomad camps and viewpoints overlooking the entire lake.
• Fishing: Khövsgöl is full of lenok trout and grayling. Fishing permit: 10,000 MNT/day. Catch-and-release is recommended.

Getting There

The town of Mörön (Murun) is the gateway to the lake. From Ulaanbaatar: Flight (1.5 hours, approx. 150€ one-way) or Bus/Jeep (10–12 hours on partly catastrophic roads). From Mörön to the lake: 100 km by jeep or bus (2–3 hours). At the lake itself, there are simple Ger Camps (from 30,000 MNT / 8€ per night) and some more comfortable accommodations.

In the far north of Mongolia, near the Russian border in the endless taiga, live the Tsaatan (Dukha) — the last reindeer nomads in the world. Only about 200–400 people lead this millennia-old life: They live in tipis (Urts) instead of yurts, migrate with their reindeer herds through the taiga forests, and live off reindeer milk, hunting, and — for some years now — a bit of tourism. Their language (Tuvan) is fundamentally different from Mongolian, and their shamanistic religion has survived what Buddhism and Communism could not erase.

Visiting the Tsaatan — an Expedition

A visit to the Tsaatan is not a comfortable day trip. It is a real expedition into one of the most remote regions of Central Asia:

• Route: From Mörön by jeep to Tsagaannuur (8 hours on a track that barely deserves the name). From there: 6–8 hours on horseback through dense taiga, over rivers and swamps, to a Tsaatan camp.
• Duration: At least 4–5 days (1 day travel, 1 day ride, 1–2 days in the camp, 1 day return ride, 1 day return travel).
• Cost: From 400–700€ for the entire expedition (guide, horses, accommodation, food).
• What to expect: Overnight in a tipi next to the reindeer, reindeer milk tea, rides through the taiga, stories by the campfire, and — if you're lucky — a shamanistic ceremony. Plus: a starry sky without any light pollution, so intense it seems unreal.

Ethics & Responsibility

The Tsaatan community is tiny and fragile. Their way of life is threatened by climate change, mining, and uncontrolled tourism. Respectful tourism is vital for their survival:

• Visit only with a local, ethically working guide who works directly with the families.
• Bring practical gifts (flour, tea, batteries, warm clothing — ask your guide beforehand what is needed).
• Photograph only with explicit permission — especially during ceremonies.
• Leave no waste. Take everything back with you.

The Gorkhi-Terelj National Park is only 70 km northeast of Ulaanbaatar — yet it is a completely different world. Where the city drowns in smog and traffic, a wide, green valley suddenly opens up with bizarre granite rock formations, clear rivers, larch forests, and nomadic yurts. Terelj is the easiest and fastest way to experience the Mongolian wilderness if your time is limited.

Highlights

• Turtle Rock (Melkhii Khad): A natural granite formation that astonishingly resembles a giant turtle — the park's landmark and one of the most photographed motifs in Mongolia. You can climb the rock and enjoy the view over the valley.
• Aryabal Meditation Temple: A Buddhist temple nestled in the rocks above the valley, accessible via a bridge and stairs. The view is spectacular, and the silence at the temple truly invites meditation.
• Horseback Riding: Terelj is perfect for shorter riding tours (2 hours to 2 days). The horses are accustomed to tourists, and the landscape is varied. From 25,000 MNT (7€) for 2 hours.
• Rafting on the Tuul: In summer, rafting tours are offered on the Tuul River — moderate whitewater (Class II–III), surrounded by rocky landscape. From 40€ per person.

Accommodation

In Terelj, there is a wide range of Ger Camps — from basic (20,000 MNT / 5€) to luxurious (HS Khaan Resort, from 200€/night with designer yurts, private bathroom, and gourmet cuisine). For a more authentic experience: stay with one of the nomadic families in the valley who host guests. Terelj is perfect for a 1–2-night excursion from Ulaanbaatar: drive there in the morning, ride, hike, sleep in a Ger, and return the next day.

Climate & Best Travel Time

The north of Mongolia is cooler and wetter than the rest of the country. At Khövsgöl Lake, summer temperatures range from 10–22°C (at night 0–5°C!), and the lake is only ice-free from mid-June. In Terelj, it is slightly milder, but even in July, the nights can be cool. The best travel time is July and August — the lake is open, the forests green, the days long. In September, it quickly becomes cold, and the first snowflakes fall.

Getting There & Connections

• Terelj: Only 70 km from UB — by taxi (40,000 MNT / 11€), organized transfer, or minibus. The easiest wilderness experience from UB.
• Khövsgöl Lake: Flight UB → Mörön (1.5h, approx. 150€) is the fastest option. Bus/Jeep: 10–12h on poor roads. From Mörön to the lake: 2–3h by jeep.
• Tsaatan Region: Only accessible by jeep and horse — no roads, no flights. Plan 4–5 extra days.

What to Bring?

• Warm Clothing: Even in summer! At Khövsgöl Lake and in the taiga, nighttime temperatures around freezing are normal. A fleece jacket, warm hat, and gloves should be in your luggage.
• Rain Protection: The north receives more rain than the Gobi or the steppe. A lightweight rain jacket and waterproof shoes are essential.
• Mosquito Repellent: At the lakes and in the northern forests, mosquitoes can be brutal in July and August — especially in the morning and evening. DEET-containing spray and a head net are not an exaggeration.
• Water Bottle with Filter: The water of Khövsgöl Lake is considered drinkable (one of the cleanest lakes in the world), but a water filter provides additional safety on hikes.