Ulaanbaatar

Ulaanbaatar (UB) is a city that simultaneously confuses and fascinates you. Almost half of all Mongolians—1.5 million people—live in a city originally planned for 300,000. The result: chronic traffic jams, smog in winter (the yurt districts heat with coal), and an energy that starkly contrasts with the empty steppe that begins just 30 km away.

Yet UB also has unexpected qualities: a vibrant café culture, excellent restaurants (Korean, Japanese, Mongolian, international), nightlife that goes on until the early hours, and a young, cosmopolitan generation that listens to K-Pop while riding horses in the countryside.

Orientation

UB stretches along the Tuul River in a wide valley, surrounded by mountains. The center is compact and walkable:

• Sükhbaatar Square: The heart of the city with the Parliament building and Genghis Khan statue. Everything starts here.
• Peace Avenue (Enkh Taivny Örgön Chölöö): The main axis from east to west—hotels, department stores, restaurants.
• Seoul Street: Nightlife strip with bars, clubs, and karaoke (Mongolians are crazy about karaoke).
• Gandan District: Around the large monastery—quieter, more traditional, with small tea houses.
• Zaisan: Southern hill with the Soviet memorial—best panoramic view over the city.

How Much Time to Plan?

UB deserves 2–3 days: one day for the main attractions, one for museums and shopping, and possibly one for the day trip to the Genghis Khan Statue. Most travelers use UB as a base—you book your tours here, find fellow travelers in the hostel, and stock up on supplies for the steppe.

Gandan Monastery (Gandantegchinlen)

The most important Buddhist monastery in Mongolia is a living place of faith, not just a tourist attraction. In the mornings between 9–10 am, you can watch hundreds of monks praying and chanting—the deep chanting in the main hall, the scent of incense, the flickering butter lamps: unforgettable. The centerpiece is a 26.5 m high gilded Avalokiteshvara statue, adorned with gold and 2,286 gemstones. The original was melted down by the Soviets in 1938; the current statue was reconstructed in 1996. Free admission (photo fee: 5,000 MNT).

National Museum of Mongolia

The entire history of Mongolia on three floors—from the Bronze Age petroglyphs to the Huns and the Mongol Empire to the socialist era and the democratic revolution. Particularly impressive: the section on the Mongol Empire with armor, weapons, and maps showing the extent of the conquests. Plan 2–3 hours. Admission: 10,000 MNT (€2.60).

Bogd Khan Winter Palace

The winter palace of the last Mongolian monarch Bogd Khan (reigned 1911–1924) is a jewel of traditional Mongolian and Tibetan architecture. Six temple buildings with religious artworks and thangkas. In the palace itself: the legendary ger made of leopard skins, gifts from foreign state guests, and a curious collection of stuffed animals. A fascinating portrait of a bygone era. Admission: 8,000 MNT (€2).

Zaisan Memorial

The Soviet war memorial on a hill south of the city offers the best panoramic view over Ulaanbaatar. 300 steps lead up to a circular mosaic celebrating Soviet-Mongolian friendship. The view at sunset over the city, nestled in the wide valley, is worth the climb. Free of charge.

Sükhbaatar Square

The central square of Mongolia—named after the revolutionary hero Damdin Sükhbaatar—is the political heart of the country. In front of the Parliament building stands a massive Genghis Khan statue, flanked by his sons Ögedei and Kublai. The square is the venue for national holidays, concerts, and demonstrations. In the evenings, it becomes a meeting place for young people and families.

Ulaanbaatar surprises with a diverse and affordable restaurant scene. Besides hearty Mongolian cuisine, you'll find excellent Korean, Japanese, Italian, and Indian restaurants—an inheritance of the international community that has lived in UB since the mining boom.

Mongolian Classics

• Buuz (Бууз): Steamed dumplings with mutton—the Mongolian national dish. Available at every snack bar, in every canteen. 6 pieces for 3,000–5,000 MNT (under €1.50). Best enjoyed in the small Guanz canteens where the locals eat.
• Khuushuur (Хуушуур): Fried dumplings—the Mongolian fast food. Greasy, hearty, everywhere. Especially popular during the Naadam Festival, when entire families prepare hundreds of them.
• Tsuivan (Цуйван): Handmade noodles with mutton and vegetables in a pan—comfort food after a long day of travel.
• Modern Seoul: One of the best restaurants in UB—fusion-Mongolian with an international touch. Main courses 15,000–30,000 MNT (€4–8).

Nightlife

UB has a surprisingly vibrant nightlife. Seoul Street is the entertainment strip with bars, clubs, and the ubiquitous karaoke bars (Mongolians are passionate singers). Popular spots: Grand Khaan Irish Pub (Western, good beer), Metropolis (upscale club), and various rooftop bars in the new high-rises. A large beer (Chinggis Lager) costs 3,000–5,000 MNT (under €1.50) in a restaurant.

Note: Friday and Saturday nights can get rough in the clubs—alcohol and testosterone are a tricky mix. Stay in groups and avoid conflicts.

Genghis Khan Equestrian Statue—the largest equestrian statue in the world

54 km east of Ulaanbaatar, in the vast steppe on the banks of the Tuul River, stands one of the most impressive monuments in the world: the Genghis Khan Equestrian Statue. At 40 meters high (30 m statue + 10 m pedestal) made of gleaming stainless steel, it depicts the great Khan on his horse, gazing eastward—allegedly in the direction from which he once came when he united the Mongolian tribes.

• Observation Deck: An elevator and stairs lead you into the horse's head—from there, you have a surreal panoramic view over the endless steppe.
• Museum in the Pedestal: A museum about Mongolian history, with reconstructed yurts, a giant traditional boot (12 m high!), and exhibitions about the Mongol Empire.
• Admission: 15,000 MNT (approx. €4). Day trip from UB: approx. 50,000 MNT (€13) by taxi, or organized tour from €25.

Other Day Trips from Ulaanbaatar

• Terelj National Park (70 km): Green valleys, spectacular rock formations (Turtle Rock!), horseback riding, and ger camp overnight stays. Can be visited as a day trip, but deserves 1–2 nights. → See Chapter North
• Khustain Nuruu National Park (100 km): The home of the Przewalski wild horses. Day trip with evening observation or overnight stay in the park ger camp. → See Chapter Central Mongolia
• 13th Century National Park (100 km): An open-air museum recreating Mongolian life during Genghis Khan's time—ger camps, archery, horseback riding demonstrations. Touristy, but entertaining.