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Regionen · Kapitel 4

Trekking

Nepal Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 4: Trekking
Regionen · Kapitel 4

Trekking

Nepal is the ultimate trekking paradise — from the multi-day pleasure hike to Poon Hill to the legendary expedition to Everest Base Camp. Here you will find everything about the best routes, permits, altitude sickness, and the unique tea house system.

Trekking in Nepal — Overview

Nepal boasts over 8 of the world's 14 eight-thousanders and a trekking network that is unparalleled. What makes Nepal so special: You need no tent, no stove, no wilderness experience. The unique tea house system — simple mountain lodges along the routes — offers accommodation, warm food, and the company of other trekkers. Trekking in Nepal is adventure with a safety net.

What many underestimate: Nepal is not just Everest and Annapurna. There are over 100 established trekking routes in 16 different regions, from leisurely 3-day hikes to multi-week expeditions in remote areas. The range spans from subtropical rhododendron forests at 2,000 m to arctic glacier landscapes at over 5,000 m — all within a few days' march.

The Most Important Trekking Regions

RouteDurationMax. HeightDifficultyBest Time
Everest Base Camp12–14 days5,364 m (EBC) / 5,545 m (Kala Patthar)Medium–HardOct–Nov, Mar–May
Annapurna Circuit14–21 days5,416 m (Thorong La)Medium–HardOct–Nov, Mar–Apr
Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)7–12 days4,130 mMediumOct–Nov, Mar–May
Langtang Valley7–10 days3,870 m (Kyanjin Ri 4,773 m optional)MediumOct–Nov, Mar–May
Poon Hill4–5 days3,210 mEasy–MediumYear-round (except monsoon)
Manaslu Circuit14–18 days5,106 m (Larkya La)HardOct–Nov, Mar–Apr
Upper Mustang10–14 days3,800 mMediumJun–Sep (rain shadow!)
Mardi Himal4–6 days4,500 mMediumOct–Nov, Mar–May

Which Trek Suits You?

  • First Trek / Little Time: Poon Hill (4–5 days, max. 3,210 m, beginner-friendly)
  • First Trek / Ambitious: Annapurna Base Camp (7–10 days, max. 4,130 m)
  • Bucket List Adventure: Everest Base Camp (12–14 days, max. 5,545 m)
  • Maximum Diversity: Annapurna Circuit (14–21 days, subtropical to arctic)
  • Off the Beaten Path: Langtang Valley or Manaslu Circuit
  • Culture Instead of Altitude: Upper Mustang (Tibetan culture in the rain shadow)
  • Instagram Secret Tip: Mardi Himal (spectacular ridge, few trekkers)

Everest Base Camp Trek★★★€€

★★★ The Classic — To the Foot of the World's Highest Mountain

The Everest Base Camp Trek is the dream trek par excellence and is among the most famous hikes in the world. In 12–14 days, you hike through the Sherpa's Khumbu Valley, past Tibetan-Buddhist monasteries, over swaying suspension bridges, and through breathtaking high mountain landscapes to the Base Camp at 5,364 m — the starting camp for Everest expeditions.

The trek is not technical mountaineering — you don't need climbing equipment or mountaineering experience. But it is physically demanding: 8 of the 12–14 days you hike at over 3,500 m altitude, the air contains only 50–65% of the usual oxygen, and temperatures drop to -15 to -20°C at night. Good basic fitness (you should be able to walk uphill for 6–8 hours a day) and the willingness to live with simple accommodations and cold nights are the prerequisites.

Route & Daily Stages in Detail

The classic route starts in Lukla (2,860 m), accessible by flight from Kathmandu:

Day 1: Lukla (2,860 m) → Phakding (2,610 m)
3–4 hours, ↓250 m
Warm-up after the exciting Lukla flight. Leisurely descent along the Dudh Koshi (Milk River). First suspension bridges with prayer flags, Sherpa villages with Mani stones. Getting warmed up.

Day 2: Phakding → Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
5–7 hours, ↑830 m
THE most strenuous ascent of the trek! From Phakding through the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park, over several spectacular suspension bridges (the longest over 100 m long, 150 m above the river!), then the infamous Namche Hill — 600 meters steep uphill in 2–3 hours. On a clear day, you see the first glimpse of Everest halfway up! Arrival in Namche Bazaar, the "Sherpa capital" — an amphitheater-shaped village with bakeries, bars, outdoor shops, and surprisingly good cappuccino.

Day 3: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar
Day trip: 4–5 hours, ↑400 m / ↓400 m
MANDATORY! Skipping is the most dangerous thing you can do. Options for the day trip: To the Everest View Hotel (3,880 m) — a luxury hotel with the best Everest view of the entire route. Or to Khumjung (3,790 m) — an authentic Sherpa village with the Edmund Hillary School and an alleged Yeti scalp in the monastery (probably a serow fur, but the story is good). In the evening: Sherpa Cultural Museum in Namche, Irish Pub (yes, really!) and bakeries.

Day 4: Namche → Tengboche (3,860 m)
5–6 hours, ↑420 m
Through rhododendron forests and over a ridge with perhaps the most beautiful panorama of the trek: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam in one view! Arrival at the famous Tengboche Monastery — the most important Buddhist monastery of the Khumbu. If possible: Attend the monks' prayers in the afternoon (3:00–4:00 pm). The Mani Rimdu ceremony in November is one of the largest religious events in the Sherpa world.

Day 5: Tengboche → Dingboche (4,410 m)
5–6 hours, ↑550 m
The vegetation becomes sparser, the air thinner. Through Pangboche (the highest year-round inhabited Sherpa village) and along the Imja Khola to Dingboche. The mountain scenery becomes more dramatic: Ama Dablam (6,812 m) — "the Matterhorn of the Himalayas" — dominates the scene. From here, you feel the altitude: headaches, shortness of breath with exertion, restless sleep.

Day 6: Acclimatization Day in Dingboche
Day trip: 3–4 hours, ↑400 m / ↓400 m
Second mandatory acclimatization day! Ascent to Nagarjun Hill (5,100 m) for a spectacular 360° view of Makalu, Lhotse, Island Peak, and the Tibetan plateau. Then back and rest. Drink plenty (3–4 liters!), no alcohol.

Day 7: Dingboche → Lobuche (4,940 m)
4–5 hours, ↑530 m
Barren moraine landscape, hardly any vegetation. Past the Chukpo Lari Memorial — dozens of stone pyramids (chortens) commemorating fallen climbers. A sobering but impressive place. The Khumbu Glacier comes into view.

Day 8: Lobuche → Gorak Shep (5,164 m) → EBC (5,364 m)
7–8 hours, ↑424 m
THE day! Morning to Gorak Shep (the last inhabited place), drop off backpacks, and then 2–3 hours over the Khumbu Glacier to the Everest Base Camp. The BC itself is in the trekking context "only" a rubble field at the foot of the mighty Khumbu Icefall — but the atmosphere, the prayer flags, and the knowledge of standing at the foot of the world's highest mountain make the moment unforgettable. In the season (April/May), the colorful expedition tents are here. Back to Gorak Shep to stay overnight.

Day 9: Gorak Shep → Kala Patthar (5,545 m) → Descent
Ascent: 1.5–2 hours (start 4:30 am!), then descent all day
THE highlight of the trek — not the Base Camp! Depart before sunrise to Kala Patthar (5,545 m), a rock plateau with the perfect view of the Everest south face in the morning light. From the EBC, you can't actually see the summit (it's obscured by Nuptse). Kala Patthar provides THE photo. The ascent in the cold and thin air is brutal, but at the top, you forget everything.

Day 10–12/13: Descent to Lukla
3 days, overnight in Pheriche/Namche/Lukla
The descent is faster, but don't underestimate the distance. The knees are strained. In Namche: last shopping opportunity for souvenirs and coffee. In Lukla: celebratory dinner and fingers crossed for good flight weather the next day!

Costs

Expect 1,200–2,500€ for the entire trek (excluding international flight):

  • Flight Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu: 300–400€
  • Sagarmatha NP entry: ~25€
  • TIMS card: ~15€
  • Tea Houses (bed + food): 25–40€/day × 14 days
  • Guide (recommended!): 25–35€/day
  • Porter (optional): 15–20€/day
  • Helicopter backup (optional but recommended): from 300€

Namche Bazaar — The Sherpa Capital

Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) deserves special mention: This amphitheater-shaped village on the mountainside is the trade and cultural center of the Sherpa and the liveliest settlement on the EBC trek. Here you will find:

  • The Sherpa Culture Museum with exhibitions on Sherpa traditions, mountaineering history, and the Yeti myth
  • Saturday Market: Every Saturday, a weekly market takes place where traders from all over the Khumbu (and even from Tibet) sell their goods
  • Several bakeries with surprisingly good bread, cakes, and coffee — last civilization before the high mountains!
  • Outdoor shops for last-minute equipment (quality and price comparable to Thamel)
  • Even an Irish Pub at 3,440 m altitude — the Guinness is imported and expensive, but the atmosphere is priceless

Tipp

The Kala Patthar (5,545 m) at sunrise is THE highlight of the trek — not the Base Camp itself! From the EBC, you can't actually see the summit of Everest (it's obscured by Nuptse). But from Kala Patthar, you have the perfect view of the entire Everest south face in the morning light. Start at 4:30 am, bring a headlamp and all the warm clothes you have. It's worth it.

Achtung

The flight to Lukla is the most notorious short-haul flight in the world! The runway is 527 m short, built uphill, and ends at a rock wall. In bad weather, flights are canceled for days. Plan at least 2 buffer days before your return flight. Many trekkers book a helicopter return flight as a backup (about 300–400€ from Lukla, 500–600€ from Gorak Shep — expensive, but you won't miss your flight).

Annapurna Circuit★★★€€

★★★ The World's Most Diverse Trekking Route

The Annapurna Circuit is a complete circuit of the Annapurna massif and is considered one of the most beautiful long-distance hikes in the world. In 14–21 days, you traverse subtropical valleys, Tibetan-Buddhist villages, barren high plateaus, and cross the Thorong-La Pass at 5,416 m — one of the highest walkable passes in the world.

What Makes the Annapurna Circuit So Special

  • Scenic Diversity: From rice fields at 800 m through rhododendron forests, deep gorges, pine forests, and Tibetan high plateaus to the icy pass at 5,416 m — no other trek offers this range. You cross five climate zones in three weeks!
  • Cultural Diversity: Hindu villages in the south with terrace farming, Gurung settlements in the middle (the people of the famous Gurkha soldiers!), and Tibetan-Buddhist communities in the north (Manang, Muktinath) with prayer flags, Mani walls, and yak herds
  • Muktinath: The sacred temple at 3,800 m, where Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims pray side by side — 108 water spouts and an eternal flame that burns on water (a natural gas outlet that has flamed for centuries)
  • Less Crowded: Since a jeep road has opened parts of the route, fewer trekkers are on the move than to the EBC. Away from the road, it is wonderfully quiet
  • Cheaper than EBC: No expensive Lukla flight, cheaper tea houses, no Sagarmatha NP entry

Route & Daily Stages in Detail

The classic route counterclockwise (the recommended direction for better acclimatization):

Day 1: Besisahar (760 m) → Bahundanda (1,310 m)
5–6 hours, ↑550 m
Start in the subtropical lowlands. Rice terraces, waterfalls, Hindu villages. Warm and humid. First impressions of the Annapurna landscape.

Day 2–3: Bahundanda → Jagat (1,300 m) → Dharapani (1,860 m)
5–6 hours each
Through the dramatic Marsyangdi Gorge. The vegetation becomes denser, the mountains steeper. Suspension bridges, waterfalls, and first Mani walls (always pass on the left!). Many trekkers now start by jeep in Dharapani or even Chame — do not skip the lower stages if you want to experience the full diversity of the circuit!

Day 4–5: Dharapani → Chame (2,670 m) → Upper Pisang (3,310 m)
5–6 hours each
The landscape changes: pine forests, first views of the Annapurna range and Manaslu. In Chame: last larger settlement with mobile reception, bakeries, and a hot spring bath (perfect after days of hiking!). Upper Pisang offers one of the most beautiful Himalayan sunrises of the trek.

Day 6–7: Upper Pisang → Manang (3,540 m)
4–5 hours each
The Tibetan-Buddhist world begins: prayer flags, chortens, yak herds, flat stone wall houses with firewood stacks on the roofs. Manang is the main village of the region — with a cinema (yes!), bakeries, internet cafes, and the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) Post, which holds a free lecture on altitude sickness daily at 3:00 pm. Attend this lecture!

Day 8: Acclimatization Day in Manang
Day trip to the Ice Lake (4,620 m), 5–6 hours
Mandatory rest day! The day trip to the Gangapurna Ice Lake is spectacular: An emerald green glacial lake with views of Gangapurna (7,455 m), Annapurna III, and the Marsyangdi Valley. Alternatively: Praken Gompa (old monastery at 3,900 m) or Milarepa's Cave (meditation cave of the Tibetan saint).

Day 9–10: Manang → Yak Kharka (4,018 m) → Thorong Phedi (4,525 m)
3–4 hours each (slowly! Acclimatization!)
The last inhabited places before the pass. Barren moraine landscape, no more trees, only grass and rocks. In Thorong Phedi (or the 300 m higher High Camp, 4,850 m) you spend the night before the big pass crossing. Sleep little, eat light, drink a lot. The excitement is palpable.

Day 11: Thorong La Pass (5,416 m) → Muktinath (3,800 m)
8–12 hours, ↑900 m / ↓1,600 m — THE day!
4:00 am departure — in the dark, with a headlamp, at -15 to -25°C. The ascent to Thorong La takes 4–6 hours in increasingly thin air (at the pass, the air contains only 50% of the oxygen at sea level). At the top: prayer flags, a tea stall, and the view of the Dhaulagiri range. Then the endless descent (1,600 meters!) to Muktinath — your knees will feel it, but the relief and pride are overwhelming.

In Muktinath awaits a sacred temple where Hindus and Buddhists pray together: 108 stone water spouts (the water comes directly from the glacier) and a flame that eternally burns on water — one of Nepal's wonders.

Day 12–14: Muktinath → Jomsom (2,720 m) → Pokhara
2 hiking days + flight or bus
Descent through the dry, windy Kali Gandaki Valley — the deepest gorge in the world (between Annapurna I, 8,091 m, and Dhaulagiri, 8,167 m). Jomsom is the terminus: From here, fly to Pokhara (20 min., from 100€) or by jeep/bus (8–10 hours over an adventurous track).

Costs

Significantly cheaper than the EBC trek: 800–1,800€ total

  • Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP): ~22€
  • TIMS card: ~15€
  • Tea Houses: 20–35€/day × 18 days
  • Guide: 25–30€/day (optional, but recommended at Thorong La)
  • Transport to/from trailhead: 20–40€
  • Flight Jomsom–Pokhara (optional): ~100€

Tipp

Walk the circuit counterclockwise (Besisahar → Manang → Thorong La → Muktinath → Jomsom)! This way, you acclimatize slowly and cross the Thorong La as an ascent, not a descent — much safer. Most trekkers go this direction. IMPORTANT: Do not skip the lower stages by jeep! The days from Besisahar to Dharapani through the Marsyangdi Gorge are beautiful and help with acclimatization.

Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)★★★

★★★ The Amphitheater of the Gods

The Annapurna Base Camp Trek is shorter and lower than EBC or Circuit, but hardly less spectacular in terms of scenery. In 7–12 days, you hike through lush rhododendron forests, Gurung villages, and bamboo groves into a massive glacial amphitheater, surrounded by Annapurna I (8,091 m), Annapurna South (7,219 m), Hiunchuli (6,441 m), Machhapuchhre (Fishtail, 6,993 m), and Gangapurna (7,455 m) — a 360° panorama that leaves you speechless.

Why ABC?

  • Shorter: 7–12 days instead of 14–21 (Circuit) or 12–14 (EBC)
  • Lower: Maximum height 4,130 m — significantly fewer problems with altitude sickness
  • Diverse: From subtropical forests through seas of rhododendrons (spectacular in bloom in March/April!) to the high mountains
  • Machhapuchhre (Fishtail): The sacred mountain with the distinctive fishtail shape accompanies you throughout the trek. It has never been climbed — the Nepalese government has banned all climbing attempts because the mountain is sacred to Shiva
  • Gurung Villages: The Gurung are one of Nepal's most fascinating mountain peoples — famous as Gurkha soldiers and for their warm hospitality

Route & Daily Stages

Start in Nayapul (by bus from Pokhara, 1.5 hours):

Day 1: Nayapul (1,070 m) → Ghandruk (1,940 m)
5–6 hours, ↑870 m
Through rice terraces and Gurung villages. Ghandruk is a beautiful Gurung village with stone houses, a Gurung museum, and the first view of Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South.

Day 2: Ghandruk → Chhomrong (2,170 m)
4–5 hours, ↑600 m / ↓370 m
Over a deep gorge and back up to Chhomrong — the last permanent village before the Base Camp. Dreamy view of Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South. Last chance for Snickers and Cola!

Day 3: Chhomrong → Bamboo (2,310 m)
4–5 hours, ↓860 m / ↑1,000 m
Steep descent into the Modi Khola Gorge and ascent through dense bamboo forest. Red pandas live here (extremely shy, but with luck, you might see one!).

Day 4: Bamboo → Deurali (3,230 m)
4–5 hours, ↑920 m
Through rhododendron and oak forests, which explode in pink, red, and white in spring. The air gets cooler, the mountains closer.

Day 5: Deurali → ABC (4,130 m)
4–5 hours, ↑900 m
Over the Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC, 3,700 m) with a spectacular close-up view of the Fishtail. Then the final ascent to ABC — the amphitheater opens up, and you stand amidst a ring of seven-thousanders and the eight-thousander Annapurna I. At sunset, the peaks glow in all shades of red.

Day 6–7/8: Descent to Nayapul
2–3 days, alternatively via Ghorepani/Poon Hill (combination trek)

Costs: 600–1,200€

  • ACAP: ~22€
  • TIMS: ~15€
  • Tea Houses: 20–30€/day × 10 days
  • Guide (optional): 25–30€/day
  • Transport Pokhara–Nayapul: 5–10€

Achtung

The Modi Khola Gorge between Chhomrong and ABC is AVALANCHE-PRONE, especially in winter and early spring (December–February). Check with the ACAP office in Pokhara for current conditions. During the monsoon (June–September), the route is not recommended due to leeches and landslides.

Langtang Valley, Poon Hill & Mardi Himal★★

★★★ Langtang Valley — Nepal's Underrated Jewel

The Langtang Valley north of Kathmandu is the easiest trek to reach from the capital — and one of the most beautiful. The valley was severely affected by the 2015 earthquake: A massive avalanche buried the village of Langtang under millions of tons of debris, over 350 people died — the deadliest single disaster of the earthquake. Today, the villages have been rebuilt, the tea houses are functioning, and the trek is a hidden gem for those seeking peace: fewer trekkers than Annapurna or Everest, spectacular mountain landscapes, and the Tibetan-influenced Tamang culture.

Daily Stages Langtang

Day 1: Syabrubesi (1,550 m) → Lama Hotel (2,470 m)
5–6 hours, ↑920 m
Steep ascent through subtropical forest with langur monkeys and eagles. "Lama Hotel" is not a hotel, but a collection of tea houses in a clearing.

Day 2: Lama Hotel → Langtang Village (3,430 m)
5–6 hours, ↑960 m
Through oak and rhododendron forest, the landscape opens up. Langtang Village was completely rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake — a memorial commemorates the victims.

Day 3: Langtang Village → Kyanjin Gompa (3,870 m)
3–4 hours, ↑440 m
Short, leisurely day. Kyanjin Gompa is the destination: A Tibetan-Buddhist monastery, a state cheese factory (yes, Swiss introduced yak cheese production here in the 1950s — try the cheese!) and spectacular views of Langtang Lirung (7,227 m).

Day 4: Day Trip Kyanjin Ri (4,773 m) or Tserko Ri (5,033 m)
4–8 hours (depending on destination)
The crowning glory: Kyanjin Ri offers a 360° panorama of Langtang Lirung, Dorje Lakpa, and the Tibetan border. Those who are fit climb to Tserko Ri (5,033 m) — demanding, but with one of the best panoramas of all Nepalese treks.

Day 5–7: Descent to Syabrubesi
Optional combination with the Gosaikunda Lake (sacred lake at 4,380 m, 2–3 extra days) or the Helambu Trek (Sherpa villages, 4–5 extra days).

Practical Langtang

  • Arrival: Bus from Kathmandu to Syabrubesi (7–9 hours, 800 NPR). Jeep is faster (5–6h, 1,500 NPR) but less comfortable
  • Permits: TIMS (~15€) + Langtang National Park (~20€)
  • Costs: 500–1,000€ for 7–10 days
  • Special Feature: Combination with Gosaikunda Lake and Helambu results in a 14–18 day trek connecting Langtang with the Kathmandu Valley

★★ Poon Hill — The Beginner's Trek

The Poon Hill Trek (Ghorepani–Poon Hill) is the perfect trek for beginners, families, or anyone with little time. In just 4–5 days you experience one of Nepal's most spectacular mountain panoramas — and that on a comparatively easy route with comfortable tea houses.

Daily Stages Poon Hill

Day 1: Nayapul (1,070 m) → Tikhedhunga (1,540 m)
3–4 hours, ↑470 m
Leisurely start through rice terraces and Magar villages.

Day 2: Tikhedhunga → Ghorepani (2,860 m)
5–7 hours, ↑1,320 m
The most strenuous day: 3,300 steps up through dense rhododendron forest. In spring (March–April), the forest is a sea of blossoms in pink, red, and white — one of the most beautiful trekking experiences in Nepal.

Day 3: Ghorepani → Poon Hill (3,210 m) → Tadapani (2,630 m)
Poon Hill: 1 hour (start 4:30 am!), then 5–6 hours to Tadapani
THE moment: Sunrise on Poon Hill — the entire Annapurna range, Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), and over 20 other peaks glow in pink and gold. A 270° Himalayan panorama you will never forget. At the top, there is a tea stall (hot ginger tea is a must!) and enough space for hundreds of trekkers. After sunrise, descent and onward march to Tadapani.

Day 4: Tadapani → Ghandruk (1,940 m)
3–4 hours, ↓690 m
Through rhododendron forest to Ghandruk — a beautiful Gurung village with the Annapurna Conservation Area Museum and a breathtaking mountain view.

Day 5: Ghandruk → Nayapul → Pokhara
4–5 hours descent, then bus to Pokhara (1.5h)

Practical Poon Hill

  • Difficulty: Easy–Medium. No risk of altitude sickness (max. 3,210 m)
  • For Whom: Beginners, families with children from 10, travelers with little time, as acclimatization before a larger trek
  • Permits: TIMS + ACAP (together ~37€)
  • Costs: 300–600€ for 4–5 days

★★ Mardi Himal — The Instagram Secret Tip

The Mardi Himal Trek is Nepal's best-kept trekking secret: In 4–6 days, you hike on a narrow, dramatic mountain ridge directly towards Machhapuchhre (Fishtail) — without the crowds of ABC or Poon Hill. The trek has only become popular in recent years and offers a ratio of effort to panorama that is hard to beat.

  • Duration: 4–6 days from/to Pokhara
  • Max. Elevation: 4,500 m (Mardi Himal High Camp)
  • Highlight: The ridge section from 3,500 m — you hike on a narrow mountain ridge with a deep view on both sides and the Fishtail right in front of you
  • Tea Houses: Simpler than on the main routes, but available
  • Permits: TIMS + ACAP (~37€)
  • For Whom: Ambitious beginners with little time but great panorama demands

Tipp

The Poon Hill sunrise is a must even without trekking ambitions: It is the easiest way to experience the full Himalaya panorama. You don't need high-altitude experience, no special equipment (good hiking boots are enough), and the tea houses are more comfortable than on the higher routes. Combine Poon Hill with the ABC trek for an epic 10–12-day trek!

Manaslu Circuit & Upper Mustang★★€€€

★★★ Manaslu Circuit — The Annapurna Circuit without the Crowds

The Manaslu Circuit is the best alternative for those who would have loved the Annapurna Circuit but shy away from the crowds and jeep roads. The circuit of the world's eighth-highest mountain (Manaslu, 8,163 m) leads through remote Tibetan villages, over the Larkya La Pass (5,106 m), and through a landscape that has hardly changed for centuries.

  • Duration: 14–18 days
  • Max. Elevation: 5,106 m (Larkya La)
  • Difficulty: Hard — the Larkya La is challenging, isolation means less help in an emergency
  • Permit: Restricted Area Permit — 100 USD/week (minimum 2-person rule and guide required!), plus MCAP (Manaslu Conservation Area Permit, ~22€) and TIMS
  • Highlights: Birendra Lake (turquoise glacial lake at 3,450 m), the Tibetan village of Samagaon with views of the Manaslu north face, the Larkya-La panorama, the hot spring in Tatopani
  • Special Feature: Guide is mandatory! At least 2 trekkers per group. Not solo hikeable
  • Cost: 1,500–3,000€ (higher permit costs, but tea houses cheaper than EBC)

★★ Upper Mustang — The Forbidden Kingdom

Upper Mustang is a time capsule: A former Tibetan kingdom (the Kingdom of Lo), completely closed to foreigners until 1992 and still demanding Nepal's highest permit price today. The landscape is reminiscent of Tibet or Ladakh: desert-like high plateaus, eroding sandstone cliffs in red, orange, and gray, ancient cave monasteries, and the medieval capital Lo Manthang with its white walls and the palace of the former king.

  • Duration: 10–14 days
  • Max. Elevation: 3,800 m (Lo Manthang)
  • Difficulty: Medium — the altitude is moderate, but the daily stages are long and the wind in the Kali Gandaki Valley can be brutal
  • Permit: 500 USD for the first 10 days, then 50 USD/day extra. Guide required!
  • Highlights: Lo Manthang (the walled capital with the palace and four monasteries), Choser (cave city), Luri Gompa (cave monastery with 800-year-old wall paintings), the Kali Gandaki Gorge (deepest gorge in the world)
  • Special Feature: Located in the rain shadow of the Himalayas — perfect for the monsoon season (June–September), when the rest of Nepal is drowning in rain!
  • Cost: 2,000–4,000€ (the most expensive trekking permit in Nepal, but an absolutely unique experience)

Permits, Guides, Tea Houses & Equipment

Trekking Permits

For all treks in Nepal, you need at least a TIMS permit and often an additional Conservation Area Permit. You can get the permits in Kathmandu (Nepal Tourism Board, Bhrikutimandap) or in Pokhara (Tourist Information). Plan for 1–2 hours and bring passport photos!

PermitPriceFor Which Treks
TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System)2,000 NPR (~13€)All Treks
ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area)3,000 NPR (~20€)Annapurna Circuit, ABC, Poon Hill, Mardi Himal
Sagarmatha NP3,000 NPR (~20€)Everest Base Camp
Langtang NP3,000 NPR (~20€)Langtang Valley
Manaslu Restricted Areafrom 100 USD/weekManaslu Circuit (Guide required!)
Upper Mustang500 USD/10 daysUpper Mustang (Guide required!)

Guide vs. Solo — Which is Better?

Nepal allows (as of 2025) both solo trekking and guided trekking on most main routes. The debate is heated, and the government has been discussing a guide requirement for years:

  • Solo (without guide): More freedom, cheaper, own pace. Possible on Annapurna, EBC, Langtang, and Poon Hill — the routes are well marked and tea houses provide orientation. BUT: In case of accident, altitude sickness, or getting lost, you are on your own. In winter and snowfall, trail markings can disappear
  • With Guide: Safety, local knowledge, cultural exchange, overcoming language barriers, navigation in snow. Required in restricted areas (Manaslu, Upper Mustang). Cost: 25–35€/day. A good guide makes the trek 10× richer — he tells you the history of every village, knows the best tea houses, and negotiates prices for you
  • With Porter: A porter carries your luggage (15–25 kg). You hike only with a daypack. Cost: 12–20€/day. Especially recommended for longer treks — your back will thank you. Ethical note: Ensure your porter is adequately equipped (warm clothing, shoes, sunglasses at altitude!)

Tea Houses — Nepal's Unique System

Tea houses are simple mountain lodges along the trekking routes — and the reason why Nepal is the only country in the world where you can trek for weeks at over 5,000 m altitude without a tent or stove.

What to expect:

  • Sleeping Place: Simple rooms with 2 beds, thin mattress, and blanket (often only a plywood wall to the next room). No running water at altitude, no heating, no electricity after 9:00 pm. Bring a sleeping bag — above 3,500 m it gets below 0°C at night!
  • Food: Dal Bhat (endlessly refillable!), momos, noodles, pancakes, porridge, chapati, fried rice. The menu is surprisingly extensive — at 4,000 m you get "pizza" and "spaghetti" (quality varies). Prices rise with altitude because everything is carried up by porter or yak
  • Common Room: The stove in the middle (usually fueled with yak dung at altitude) is the social center. Here you meet other trekkers, exchange stories, and warm up. Seats close to the stove are coveted!
  • Toilets: Mostly squat toilet. On the main routes, there are also western toilets at lower altitudes. Bring toilet paper!
  • Showers: Hot shower (solar or gas heated) available up to about 3,500 m, costs 200–500 NPR. Above: sponge bath with hot water from the thermos
  • Charging: 200–500 NPR per device (phone, power bank). Most tea houses have solar power or small generators

Prices in Tea Houses (Guide Values)

ItemLow Altitude (2,000–3,000 m)High Altitude (3,500–5,000 m)
Bed (double room)200–400 NPR (1–3€)500–800 NPR (3–5€)
Dal Bhat400–600 NPR (2.50–4€)800–1,200 NPR (5–8€)
Momos (10 pcs.)300–500 NPR600–900 NPR
Masala Chai50–100 NPR150–300 NPR
Boiled Water (1l)50–100 NPR200–400 NPR
Charging (phone)100–200 NPR300–500 NPR
Hot Shower200–300 NPR400–500 NPR (or not available)
Wi-Fi (1h)200–300 NPR500 NPR (or not available)

Equipment — What You REALLY Need

The good news: You don't need expensive equipment from home. In Thamel (Kathmandu) and Lakeside (Pokhara) you get everything — from down jackets to sleeping bags to trekking poles. Quality and prices:

  • Down Jacket: 2,000–8,000 NPR (13–55€). "North Face" is available in real (authorized shops) and as a copy (street shops). Copies last for one trek, but not for expeditions
  • Sleeping Bag: Rent 100–200 NPR/day or buy from 3,000 NPR. For EBC/Annapurna Circuit: Minimum comfort temperature -15°C!
  • Trekking Shoes: Bring your own — broken-in shoes are worth gold. There are shoes in Thamel (2,000–10,000 NPR), but the fit is a matter of luck
  • Trekking Poles: 800–2,000 NPR. Highly recommended for the descent (knees!)
  • Power Bank: 20,000 mAh minimum, better 30,000 mAh. In Kathmandu from 2,000 NPR
  • Water Filter/SteriPEN: An investment that pays off immediately (no expensive bottled water on the trek)

Altitude Sickness (AMS) — The Most Important Topic

From 2,500 m altitude, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can occur. From 3,500 m it is common. The golden rules:

  • Climb high, sleep low: Do not ascend more than 300–500 meters per day (sleeping altitude!)
  • Acclimatization Days: Take a rest day every 1,000 meters of altitude
  • Drink Plenty: 3–4 liters per day. No alcohol at altitude!
  • Recognize Symptoms: Headaches, nausea, insomnia, shortness of breath, loss of appetite
  • Lake Louise Score: Headache + at least 1 other symptom = AMS. DO NOT ascend further!
  • If Worsening: DESCEND IMMEDIATELY! No excuses, no "it will be better tomorrow". Even 500 m descent brings dramatic improvement
  • HACE (Cerebral Edema) & HAPE (Pulmonary Edema): The life-threatening complications. Symptoms: confusion, coordination disorders (HACE), rattling breathing, pink foam (HAPE). Immediate descent and evacuation!
  • Diamox (Acetazolamide): Can be taken prophylactically. Available without prescription in Kathmandu's pharmacies (50 NPR for 10 tablets!). 125–250 mg twice daily, starting 1 day before ascending above 3,500 m. Side effects: tingling in fingers and toes, frequent urination, taste changes with carbonated drinks. Discuss with travel doctor!

Achtung

Altitude sickness can affect ANYONE — regardless of age, fitness, or experience. Marathon runners and military athletes are just as at risk as couch potatoes. Every year, people die from altitude sickness on the EBC trek and at Thorong La (Annapurna Circuit) because they ignore the symptoms. Always take headaches and nausea at altitude seriously. The simplest rule: "If you feel bad at altitude and it doesn't get better overnight: GO DOWN." No discussion. No trek in the world is worth your life.

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