Tainan — Taiwan's cultural soul
Taiwan's Oldest City
Tainan (台南) is Taiwan's oldest city (founded in 1624 by the Dutch) and the former capital. While Taipei represents the modern, glittering side of Taiwan, Tainan is the island's cultural and culinary soul. Over 200 temples in a relatively small urban area, a legendary street food scene that even amazes Taiwanese from Taipei, and a history that dates back 400 years — from the Dutch East India Company through the Japanese colonial period to the Kuomintang era.
Tainan feels more relaxed than Taipei: the alleys are narrower, the buildings lower, and the people a touch friendlier. The city lives in the rhythm of the temples and markets — morning milkfish congee at a street stall, afternoon tea in the shade of a banyan tree, evening chaos and aromas of the Flower Night Market.
Temple Highlights
- Confucius Temple (孔廟, 1665): The oldest Confucius temple in Taiwan — simple, elegant, surrounded by ancient trees. The red walls and curved roofs exude a tranquility that contrasts with the livelier Taoist temples. The street in front is a charming promenade with cafes, ceramic shops, and bookstores. Free of charge.
- Grand Matsu Temple (大天后宮): One of Taiwan's most important Mazu temples. Mazu (妈祖) is the sea goddess and Taiwan's most popular deity — millions of devotees make pilgrimages to her temples annually. Magnificent wood carvings, incense smoke, and praying believers make the visit a spiritual experience.
- Chihkan Tower (赤崁樓): Originally Fort Provintia, built by the Dutch in 1653. Today, a picturesque temple complex with a museum about the Dutch colonial period and nine stone turtles (actually Bixi, mythical dragon turtles) carrying steles on their backs. Admission: 50 TWD (1.50€).
- Anping Fort (安平古堡): Taiwan's oldest fort, built by the Dutch (VOC) in 1624 as Fort Zeelandia. From here, Taiwan was first colonized by Europeans. The old wall remnants, the observation tower, and the museum tell 400 years of colonial history. Admission: 50 TWD.
Street Food in Tainan
Tainan is considered Taiwan's foodie capital — even Taiwanese from the north pilgrimage here for the food. The specialties:
- Danzai Noodles (擔仔麵): Thin noodles in a delicate shrimp sauce with garlic, coriander, and minced pork. Tainan's signature dish, invented in the 1890s. Small portion: 50 TWD (1.50€). Most famous at Du Xiaoyue (度小月).
- Coffin Bread (棺材板): Fried white bread, cut open like a coffin, filled with a creamy chicken and seafood sauce. Sounds macabre, tastes fantastic. Invented in Tainan in the 1940s.
- Milkfish Congee (虱目魚粥): Rice porridge with tender milkfish — the traditional breakfast in Tainan. Available at street stalls from 5 a.m. The Taiwanese say: "If you don't know milkfish, you don't know Tainan."
- Shaved Ice (刨冰): Finely shaved ice topped with fresh mango, taro balls, red beans, and condensed milk. Tainan's best weapon against the tropical heat. Best enjoyed at Tai Cheng Old House (泰成水果店).
💡 Tipp
Tainan is best explored by scooter (300 TWD/day = 9€). The temples are scattered, and the distances are too far to walk, but perfect for a scooter. Spend the afternoon in Anping (Fort, Anping Treehouse, old town with street food), and in the evening, head to the Flower Night Market (花園夜市, Thursday and Saturday) — Tainan's largest night market with over 400 stalls.
