Jiufen & North Coast

The Spirited-Away Village

Jiufen (九份) is a former gold rush village in the mountains above the north coast, which became world-famous for its resemblance to the magical world from Hayao Miyazaki's anime film „Spirited Away". Whether Jiufen actually served as a model is disputed — but when the red lanterns light up in the narrow, steep alleys and the mist rises from the sea, it absolutely feels that way.

The history of Jiufen began in the 19th century when gold was discovered here. Thousands of fortune seekers flocked to the remote mountain village, teahouses and shops emerged. When the gold ran out, the village fell into decline — until it was rediscovered in the 1990s as a film set and tourist destination.

What to Expect

• Jishan Street (基山街): The main alley with stalls, teahouses, and souvenir shops. Narrow, steep, covered, and full of scents. Try Taro Balls (芋圓) — served in warm or cold sweet soup, Jiufen's most famous specialty. They taste best at Ah Gan Yi (阿甘姨).
• A-Mei Teahouse (阿妹茶樓): The iconic teahouse with the red lantern, allegedly serving as inspiration for the spirit world in Spirited Away. Traditional Taiwanese tea ceremony with views over the coast and sea. From 300 TWD (9€) per person, including tea and pastries. Most beautiful after dark.
• Shengping Theater (昇平戲院): Taiwan's oldest cinema (1934), lovingly restored and now used as a museum and event venue. A window into the gold rush era.

North Coast: Yehliu Geopark

30 minutes west of Jiufen lies the Yehliu Geopark (野柳地質公園) — a surreal rock landscape by the sea. Wind and water have eroded the sandstone over millennia into bizarre formations that look like mushrooms, candles, and the famous „Queen's Head". The Queen's Head is becoming increasingly thinner at the "neck" — geologists estimate it will break off in a few decades. Admission: 80 TWD (2.50€). Visit in the morning before the bus groups arrive.

Getting There & Tips

Bus 1062 from Taipei Main Station or Zhongxiao Fuxing (1.5h, 101 TWD / 3€). Best to go in the afternoon, enjoy the sunset over the sea, and see the illuminated lanterns in the evening. Yehliu can be included as a stop on the way to Jiufen (Bus 790 Yehliu → Jiufen). Plan a whole day for both places together.