Trabzon

Trabzon — the ancient Trapezunt — is the metropolis of the eastern Black Sea coast and was once the terminus of the Silk Road and the capital of a Byzantine empire (Empire of Trebizond, 1204–1461). Today, the city with 800,000 inhabitants is a vibrant, authentic center, bearing little resemblance to the touristy south.

Highlights

• Hagia Sophia of Trabzon: Not to be confused with Istanbul's Hagia Sophia — this former Byzantine church (13th century) is smaller, but the frescoes inside are excellently preserved and little visited. Museum with admission 60 ₺.
• Boztepe: Trabzon's local mountain offers a fantastic panoramic view over the city and the Black Sea. In the evening, sit here with the locals, drink Çay, and enjoy the sunset — that's Black Sea romance.
• Bazaar district (Çarşı): The market around the Trabzon Kalesi is an experience — fish, cheese (the famous Kuymak), hazelnuts, local honey, and tea. No tourists, just locals.
• Atatürk Köşkü: The white villa where Atatürk resided in 1924 and 1937 — a charming museum in a park-like garden above the city.

Black Sea Cuisine

The cuisine of the Black Sea region is unique and different from the rest of Turkey:

• Kuymak (Muhlama): Melted cheese with cornmeal and butter — the fondue of the Black Sea. A must-try!
• Hamsi (Anchovy): THE fish of the region — fried, in rice, as bread, even as dessert. In winter (Nov–Feb) is hamsi season.
• Trabzon-style Pide: The Trabzon-Pide is closed (like a calzone) and filled with minced meat or cheese — different from the open pide elsewhere.
• Karalahana Çorbası: Cabbage soup with corn — hearty and warming, perfect for the humid climate.