Black Sea Coast

Trabzon — the ancient Trapezunt — is the metropolis of the eastern Black Sea coast and was once the terminus of the Silk Road and the capital of a Byzantine empire (Empire of Trebizond, 1204–1461). Today, the city with 800,000 inhabitants is a vibrant, authentic center, bearing little resemblance to the touristy south.

Highlights

• Hagia Sophia of Trabzon: Not to be confused with Istanbul's Hagia Sophia — this former Byzantine church (13th century) is smaller, but the frescoes inside are excellently preserved and little visited. Museum with admission 60 ₺.
• Boztepe: Trabzon's local mountain offers a fantastic panoramic view over the city and the Black Sea. In the evening, sit here with the locals, drink Çay, and enjoy the sunset — that's Black Sea romance.
• Bazaar district (Çarşı): The market around the Trabzon Kalesi is an experience — fish, cheese (the famous Kuymak), hazelnuts, local honey, and tea. No tourists, just locals.
• Atatürk Köşkü: The white villa where Atatürk resided in 1924 and 1937 — a charming museum in a park-like garden above the city.

Black Sea Cuisine

The cuisine of the Black Sea region is unique and different from the rest of Turkey:

• Kuymak (Muhlama): Melted cheese with cornmeal and butter — the fondue of the Black Sea. A must-try!
• Hamsi (Anchovy): THE fish of the region — fried, in rice, as bread, even as dessert. In winter (Nov–Feb) is hamsi season.
• Trabzon-style Pide: The Trabzon-Pide is closed (like a calzone) and filled with minced meat or cheese — different from the open pide elsewhere.
• Karalahana Çorbası: Cabbage soup with corn — hearty and warming, perfect for the humid climate.

The Sumela Monastery is one of the most spectacular structures in Turkey — and the world. Clinging to a 300-meter-high rock face, surrounded by the dense forests of the Altındere National Park, it looks like something out of a fantasy film. According to legend, the Greek Orthodox monastery was founded in the 4th century, with most of the surviving buildings dating from the 13th to 19th centuries.

The main church inside the monastery is covered with Byzantine and post-Byzantine frescoes — scenes from the lives of Christ and the Virgin Mary, partially damaged by vandalism but still impressive. The library, monks' cells, chapels, and an aqueduct system complete the complex.

After extensive restorations (2015–2022), the monastery is fully accessible again. The ascent is via a paved path and stairs (about 40 minutes from the parking lot). Alternatively, a shuttle bus covers part of the route.

The Kaçkar Mountains in the hinterland of the eastern Black Sea coast are Turkey's trekking paradise — rugged, wild, and scarcely developed. The peaks reach 3,937 m (Kaçkar Dağı), with glacial lakes, alpine meadows (Yaylalar), and dense forests in between. The high pasture Ayder (1,350 m) is the most famous starting point.

Ayder

The mountain village of Ayder is surrounded by steep, green slopes, waterfalls, and tea plantations. The atmosphere is alpine — wooden houses, mist, cooler temperatures. Ayder is famous for its thermal springs (46°C, sulfur water) and the alpine culture: In summer, shepherds drive their herds to the high pastures (Yaylalar), where cheese and butter are made in simple wooden huts.

Activities

• Hiking: Day hikes to the Yaylalar (high pastures) like Pokut, Hazindak, and Sal. Multi-day treks to the Kaçkar summit (2–3 days, guide recommended) or crossing the mountains from the Black Sea side to the Çoruh Gorge.
• Thermal springs: The modernized thermal bath in Ayder — perfect after a day of hiking. Admission approx. 80 ₺.
• Rafting: The Fırtına Deresi (Storm Stream) offers class III–IV white-water rafting — one of the best rafting spots in Turkey.
• Zipline over the Fırtına Valley: One of the longest ziplines in Turkey (2 km) over the green valley — adrenaline rush guaranteed.

Uzungöl (Long Lake) is a small mountain lake at an altitude of 1,090 m, surrounded by dense fir forests and steep mountains — a setting reminiscent of the Swiss Alps or Norway. The lake with its small mosque on the shore and wooden houses on the hill is one of the most photographed motifs in eastern Turkey.

In recent years, Uzungöl has grown significantly — particularly popular with Arab tourists from the Gulf states. Hotels and restaurants have increased, and it can get crowded on summer weekends. Nevertheless, in the early morning, when the mist hangs over the lake, the atmosphere is magical.

Activities

• Lake walk: A simple walking path leads around the lake (about 30 minutes).
• Hike to the high pastures: Paths lead from the lake to the surrounding pastures — Haldizen Yaylası (2,100 m) offers panoramic views of the mountain world.
• Eat trout: The local specialty is fresh Black Sea trout (Alabalık), grilled or pan-fried — at every restaurant by the lake.

The province of Rize is the tea capital of Turkey — and one of the country's most unusual landscapes. The steep slopes on the Black Sea coast are covered with endless tea plantations that shimmer in bright green. Turkey is the world's fifth-largest tea producer, and almost all Turkish tea (Çay) comes from the region around Rize.

The tea harvest takes place from May to October — during this time, you see pickers (mostly women) with large baskets on the steep slopes everywhere. The freshly picked leaves are processed in the numerous factories (Çay Fabrikası) along the coast — the scent is omnipresent.

Tea Experience

• Çaykur Fabrikası (Rize): The state tea factory offers tours (inquire in advance). In the associated tea garden on the Ziraat Tepesi (Agricultural Hill), you have the best view over the plantations.
• Rize Tea Museum: Small museum on the history of Turkish tea — Rize has been cultivating tea since the 1930s when Atatürk introduced the culture.
• Pick yourself: Some families offer tourists the opportunity to help with the harvest — ask at the hotel for local contacts.

Getting There

• Flight: Trabzon (TZX) is directly connected from Istanbul (1h 40, Turkish Airlines/Pegasus, from 400 ₺). Rare direct flights from Germany (SunExpress seasonally).
• Car: From Istanbul 1,100 km (12–14 hours). From Ankara 780 km (9–10 hours). Rental car recommended along the coast.

Getting Around

A rental car is essential — the sights are widely scattered, and public transport in the mountains is rare. The coastal road D010 is well developed, the mountain roads (to Ayder, Uzungöl, to the Yaylalar) are narrow and winding but paved.

Climate & Clothing

The Black Sea coast is the wettest region in Turkey — rain is possible year-round, even in summer. A rain jacket and warm layers are essential, especially in the mountains (Ayder: 10–20°C in summer). The coast itself is pleasantly warm in summer (25–28°C) but more humid than the south.

Best Travel Time

June to September — least rain, high pastures accessible, tea harvest. July/August can also get busy here (Turkish domestic tourism). Ideal: June or September.