Dining & Practicalities in Tana

Dining in Antananarivo

Tana has the best restaurant scene in Madagascar—from the street food around the corner to the French-inspired gourmet temple. The density of good restaurants, especially in the Haute Ville, is remarkable:

• La Varangue: Upscale restaurant in a colonial townhouse in the upper city. French-Malagasy fusion cuisine, stylish ambiance, main courses 10–25€. Reservation recommended.
• Restaurant Sakamanga: An institution in Tana—located in the hotel of the same name. Zebu steak, seafood, local classics. 5–15€ per dish. Live music on weekends.
• Hotely (street kitchens): Everywhere in the lower city. Rice (vary) with beef (hen'omby), chicken (akoho), or beans (tsaramaso), along with broth (ro). A complete meal for 1–2€.
• Pâtisseries: The French heritage lives on in the bakeries. Croissants, pain au chocolat, and baguette are surprisingly good in Tana and cost 0.20–0.50€.

Safety in Tana

Tana is generally safe during the day if you exercise normal caution: do not wear valuables openly, carry your backpack in front, watch out for pickpockets (especially at the Zoma market and in crowds). Do not walk at night—always take a taxi. The lower city (Analakely) is deserted and unsafe after dark. The Haute Ville and the hotels in Isoraka are safer.

Transport in Tana

The city lacks a functioning public transport system. Get around by taxi (within the city 1–4€, always negotiate the price beforehand!) or on foot (in the upper city, this is quite possible). From Ivato Airport: Taxi 15–25€, pre-booking a transfer through the hotel is the least stressful option.