Discovering Antananarivo
Antananarivo—briefly Tana—is a city that polarizes. For some, it's a chaotic transit camp on the way to the national parks; for others, an underrated gem with a history dating back to the 17th century. The truth lies in between: Tana is loud, dusty, congested—and simultaneously full of charm if you look closely.
The city stretches over twelve hills on a plateau at 1,200–1,400 m altitude, providing pleasantly cool temperatures (15–25°C). At the top sits the Rova (Royal Palace, currently under reconstruction), while life bustles in the streets of the lower town. In between: steep alleys, colorful colonial buildings, crowded markets, and traffic chaos that amazes even seasoned travelers.
Plan 1–2 days for Tana—enough to explore the old town, the Zoma market, and Ambohimanga before heading out to the regions.
Orientation
Tana is divided into upper and lower city:
- Haute Ville (Upper City): The historical core on the highest hill with the Rova Palace, the Prime Minister's Palace (Andafiavaratra), and colonial buildings. Here are also the better restaurants and hotels.
- Analakely (Lower City): The commercial center with the large Zoma market, shops, banks, and the train station. Loud, crowded, and energetic.
- Isoraka & Ambatonakanga: Districts with good mid-range hotels and restaurants, located between the upper and lower city.
- Ivandry & Ankorondrano: More modern districts in the east with shopping centers, international hotels, and airport access.
- Ivato Airport: 15 km north of the city. Transfer: 30–60 min. (depending on traffic), taxi 15–25€.
