Valletta & Three Cities

Valletta is unlike any other European capital. Just 600 meters long and 300 meters wide, with only 6,400 inhabitants, it is the smallest capital in the EU—and at the same time one of the most architecturally dense. The entire city was planned on the drawing board by the Knights of St. John after the Great Siege of 1565 and carved out of the rock in just 15 years. The result: a perfect grid of streets, built on a narrow peninsula between two natural harbors, with bastions and fortress walls rising directly from the sea.

Since 1980, the entire old town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 2018, Valletta was the European Capital of Culture—the starting point for a cultural renaissance with new museums, concert halls, and restored palaces. Today, Valletta is a fascinating mix of baroque splendor and contemporary creativity: alongside 400-year-old palaces stand Renzo Piano's modern parliament building and the open-air theater Pjazza Teatru Rjal.

Plan at least a full day for Valletta, preferably two. The Co-Cathedral, the Grandmaster's Palace, the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens, Fort St. Elmo, and the waterfront are the main attractions—but the real magic lies in aimlessly wandering through the side streets, where you will encounter hidden chapels, tiny cafés, and breathtaking sea views.

St. John's Co-Cathedral

The St. John's Co-Cathedral is Valletta's absolute highlight—and one of the most impressive churches in the world. Externally plain and fortress-like, the interior explodes in an orgy of gold, marble, and painting that literally takes the visitor's breath away upon entering. The floor consists of 375 tombstones of the knights, each a work of art inlaid with marble. The side chapels of the eight languages of the Order compete for the most magnificent decoration. In the oratory hangs Caravaggio's "The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist" (1608)—the master's largest painting and his only signed work. Admission: €15, including audio guide. Tip: Come first thing in the morning before the cruise groups arrive.

Grandmaster's Palace

The Grandmaster's Palace on Republic Street was the seat of the Grandmasters of the Order of St. John for 250 years and is today partially the seat of the Maltese President. The State Rooms with knight armor, tapestries, and frescoes as well as the Palace Armoury with over 5,000 exhibits—one of the largest collections of historical weapons in Europe—are open to visitors. Admission: €10 (State Rooms), €10 (Armoury) or combined ticket €14.

Upper Barrakka Gardens & Saluting Battery

The Upper Barrakka Gardens are Valletta's crown jewel among public spaces: a terrace with arcades high above the Grand Harbour, with a panoramic view that is among the most spectacular in all of Europe. Below the terrace lies the Saluting Battery—here historical cannons fire a salute shot daily at 12:00 and 16:00. The moment when the cannon roars and the smoke drifts over the harbor is unforgettable. Garden entry: free. Saluting Battery: €3.

Fort St. Elmo & National War Museum

Fort St. Elmo at the tip of the peninsula is the place where Malta's history was decided. During the Great Siege of 1565, the small fortress withstood the Ottomans for 31 days—far longer than expected—and gave the defenders in the rest of Malta the crucial time. Today, the fort houses the National War Museum with exhibits from the Bronze Age to World War II. Admission: €10.

MUŻA — National Museum of Art

In the beautifully restored Auberge d'Italie (1574), MUŻA showcases Malta's art collection from antiquity to the present, including works by Mattia Preti, Antoine Favray, and contemporary Maltese artists. The architecture of the building alone is worth the visit. Admission: €7.

Renzo Piano's City Gate & Parliament

Italian star architect Renzo Piano redesigned the entrance to the city in 2014: the modern City Gate, the sleek parliament building made of honey-colored limestone, and the open-air theater Pjazza Teatru Rjal on the ruins of the opera house destroyed in the war. A successful dialogue between old and new, initially controversial, but now considered a masterpiece.

Opposite Valletta, on the other side of the Grand Harbour, lie the Three Cities (Cottonera): Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (L-Isla), and Cospicua (Bormla). These three cities are older than Valletta—the Knights of St. John settled here before building Valletta, and the decisive battle of the Great Siege took place here.

Vittoriosa (Birgu)

The most beautiful of the three cities and an absolute must-see. Vittoriosa was the first seat of the Knights in Malta (from 1530) before they moved to Valletta. The narrow, car-free streets with honey-colored facades, hidden chapels, and medieval palaces are more authentic and quieter than Valletta. Highlights:

• Fort St. Angelo: The mighty fortress at the end of the peninsula was the headquarters of the Knights during the Great Siege. Now restored and walkable with panoramic views of Valletta. Admission: €8.
• Inquisitor's Palace: The only surviving Inquisition palace in the world, complete with prison cells and courtroom. Fascinating and slightly eerie. Admission: €6.
• Malta Maritime Museum: Located in the former naval bakery building, with models of Maltese ships and the maritime history of the country.
• Collachio: The medieval Knights' quarter with the Auberges (inns) of the Order's languages—the oldest settlement of the Knights in Malta.

Senglea (L-Isla)

At its tip, Senglea offers the Gardjola Watchtower in the Safe Haven Gardens—an iconic viewpoint with eye and ear as symbols of vigilance. From here, you have a magnificent view of Valletta from below. The streets are narrow, steep, and full of clotheslines—here lies the real Malta.

Cospicua (Bormla)

The largest of the three cities, surrounded by the mighty Margherita and Cottonera Lines—the largest fortifications in Europe after the Chinese walls. Cospicua is less touristy, but precisely for that reason, authentic. The Church of the Immaculate Conception and the Dockyard Creek are worth seeing.

In recent years, Valletta has undergone a culinary revolution. In addition to traditional Maltese eateries, there are now innovative restaurants, rooftop bars, and specialty coffee shops, making the capital a true foodie destination.

Traditional & Maltese

In Valletta's side streets, you can still find authentic Maltese cuisine at affordable prices. Look for Kazin (clubhouses that function as inexpensive restaurants) or small eateries in Merchants Street and the cross streets. Typical dishes: Fenek (rabbit) stewed in wine, Braġioli (beef roulades), Soppa tal-Armla (widow's soup with goat cheese), and of course Pastizzi—available everywhere for under a euro.

Modern & Upscale

The streets around Old Bakery Street (Triq l-Ifran) and St. Lucia Street have developed into the culinary epicenter. Here you will find restaurants that combine Maltese tradition with Mediterranean innovation. Reservations recommended on weekends. The waterfront beneath the bastions offers upscale restaurants with harbor views—especially atmospheric in the evenings.

Cafés & Bars

Valletta's café scene is surprisingly lively. Specialty coffee has taken over the capital—besides traditional Maltese cafés, there are now third-wave roasteries. In the evenings, many venues transform into wine bars and cocktail bars. Strait Street (Triq id-Dejqa), once notorious as the "sin street" of British sailors, is now Valletta's coolest nightlife area with jazz clubs, bars, and restaurants in historic vaults.

The Grand Harbour (Il-Port il-Kbir) is one of the most magnificent natural harbors in the world and has been the heart of Malta for over 2,000 years. Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Knights, Napoleon, and the British Navy—all used this deep, sheltered harbor. Today, it is a vast open-air museum, surrounded by bastions, fortresses, and historic cities.

Harbour Tour

A harbour tour is one of the absolute must-do activities in Malta. The 90-minute boat trip from Sliema Ferries or Valletta Waterfront shows the capital and the Three Cities from their most spectacular side: mighty bastions rise 60 meters from the water, Fort St. Angelo towers over the harbor entrance, and the superyachts in Vittoriosa Marina contrast with the traditional Luzzu boats. Price: about €16–20, several times a day.

History of the Harbour

During World War II, the Grand Harbour was one of the most bombed places in the world. The Axis powers dropped more bombs on Malta than on London. The docks and the Three Cities were heavily destroyed—King George VI awarded the entire Maltese people the George Cross for their heroism, which is still visible on the Maltese flag today. The Siege Bell Memorial at the Lower Barrakka Gardens commemorates the over 7,000 victims.