The Three Cities

Opposite Valletta, on the other side of the Grand Harbour, lie the Three Cities (Cottonera): Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (L-Isla), and Cospicua (Bormla). These three cities are older than Valletta—the Knights of St. John settled here before building Valletta, and the decisive battle of the Great Siege took place here.

Vittoriosa (Birgu)

The most beautiful of the three cities and an absolute must-see. Vittoriosa was the first seat of the Knights in Malta (from 1530) before they moved to Valletta. The narrow, car-free streets with honey-colored facades, hidden chapels, and medieval palaces are more authentic and quieter than Valletta. Highlights:

• Fort St. Angelo: The mighty fortress at the end of the peninsula was the headquarters of the Knights during the Great Siege. Now restored and walkable with panoramic views of Valletta. Admission: €8.
• Inquisitor's Palace: The only surviving Inquisition palace in the world, complete with prison cells and courtroom. Fascinating and slightly eerie. Admission: €6.
• Malta Maritime Museum: Located in the former naval bakery building, with models of Maltese ships and the maritime history of the country.
• Collachio: The medieval Knights' quarter with the Auberges (inns) of the Order's languages—the oldest settlement of the Knights in Malta.

Senglea (L-Isla)

At its tip, Senglea offers the Gardjola Watchtower in the Safe Haven Gardens—an iconic viewpoint with eye and ear as symbols of vigilance. From here, you have a magnificent view of Valletta from below. The streets are narrow, steep, and full of clotheslines—here lies the real Malta.

Cospicua (Bormla)

The largest of the three cities, surrounded by the mighty Margherita and Cottonera Lines—the largest fortifications in Europe after the Chinese walls. Cospicua is less touristy, but precisely for that reason, authentic. The Church of the Immaculate Conception and the Dockyard Creek are worth seeing.