Hualien — Gateway to the East Coast
Taiwan's Wild East Begins Here
Hualien (花蓮) is the largest city on the east coast, the gateway to the Taroko Gorge, and the perfect starting point for exploring Taiwan's wild east. The city itself has just under 100,000 inhabitants and exudes a calmness that is hard to find in bustling Taipei. Hualien is nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the steeply rising mountains of the central range — the landscape alone is breathtaking.
Highlights in Hualien
- Dongdamen Night Market (東大門夜市): Hualien's best night market — smaller and more authentic than the Taipei markets, with a special feature: indigenous dishes of the Amis and Truku. Wild boar sausages, bamboo rice, grilled flying fish, and millet wine. A culinary experience off the beaten Taiwanese cuisine path.
- Qixingtan Beach (七星潭): Not a sandy beach, but a pebble beach north of the city with turquoise water and the dramatic panorama of the central mountain range in the background. Ideal for sunrise — when the first rays bathe the mountain range in golden light, the sight is magical. Swimming is dangerous due to strong currents, but the atmosphere is unbeatable.
- Pine Garden (松園別館): Former Japanese military building (1944) on a hill, surrounded by ancient pines. Today, art exhibitions, a café with sea views, and a place of silence with a complex history — Japanese officers planned kamikaze missions in the Pacific War here.
- Whale Watching: From April to September, boats depart from Hualien for whale watching — dolphins, sperm whales, and occasionally humpback whales. Success rate: over 90%. From 800 TWD (24€) per person.
Getting There
Train from Taipei: Taroko Express 2h (440 TWD / 13€, reserve!), regular train 3–4h (approx. 250 TWD). Alternatively: Bus from Taipei (3.5h). There is no HSR on the east coast — that's part of the charm.
