Quito & Highlands

Quito is a city to be discovered in layers — both literally and metaphorically. Nestled in a narrow Andean valley at 2,850 meters, the city stretches 50 kilometers from north to south but only 5 kilometers from east to west. Volcanoes rise on either side: Pichincha (4,784 meters) directly above the city, Cotopaxi on the horizon.

The Old Town (Centro Histórico) is the crown jewel: declared the first city in the world to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, even before Venice and Krakow. Over 40 churches and monasteries, colonial palaces, and bustling plazas are packed into a small area. The dimensions are breathtaking — the churches were built to impress the indigenous population, and they still succeed today.

The Highlights of the Old Town

• Plaza Grande (Plaza de la Independencia) — The heart of the city: Presidential Palace, Cathedral, Archbishop's Palace, and City Hall surround the elegant square. The changing of the guard takes place on Sundays.
• Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús — The most magnificent baroque church in South America. 7 tons of gold leaf cover the interior — ceilings, altars, columns, every inch shines. The sight upon entering takes your breath away. Entrance: 5 USD.
• Basilica del Voto Nacional — The largest neo-Gothic basilica in South America with gargoyles in the form of Ecuadorian animals (iguanas, turtles, armadillos). Climb the steep ladder into one of the towers for a 360-degree panorama over Quito. Entrance: 4 USD.
• Iglesia de San Francisco — Quito's oldest colonial building (1535), with a huge forecourt. Inside, a mudéjar-influenced ceiling vault and hundreds of baroque artworks.
• La Ronda — The most romantic alley in Quito: restored colonial houses, small craft shops, cafés, and bars. Live music in the evenings and the best atmosphere in the Old Town.

Panecillo & El Teleférico

For the best panoramic views, there are two options: The Panecillo, a hill with the 45-meter-high Virgen de Quito statue, offers views over the Old Town (taxi: 3 USD, not recommended on foot for safety reasons). The TelefériQo takes you in 10 minutes to 4,050 meters on the Pichincha volcano — the view over the entire city and surrounding volcanoes is spectacular. Entrance: 8.50 USD.

About 25 km north of Quito lies the famous Mitad del Mundo — the "Middle of the World." Here runs the equator, the invisible line that divides the Earth into the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. In fact, there are two attractions competing for visitors' favor:

Mitad del Mundo Monument (the official one)

The 30-meter-high monument with the globe on top marks the equator — although it is about 240 meters off (a measurement error by the French geodesy expedition of 1736). Nevertheless: The monument is impressive, the museum park well-designed, and the obligatory photo with one foot on each hemisphere is a must-do. Entrance: 5 USD.

Museo Intiñan (the "real" one)

A few hundred meters away lies the private Museo Intiñan, which claims to stand on the true equator line (GPS measurements are inconclusive). Here, the famous "experiments" are conducted: water that doesn't swirl on the equator, eggs balancing on a nail, and strength tests that are supposedly more difficult on the line. Scientifically questionable, but entertaining and great fun. Entrance: 5 USD.

Getting there from Quito is easy: Metrobús to the Ofelia terminal, then a local bus to Mitad del Mundo (about 1.5 hours, under 1 USD). Or taxi/Uber (about 15–20 USD one-way). Alternatively, as an organized tour with hotel pickup (25–40 USD).

Two hours north of Quito lies Otavalo — home to the most famous indigenous market in South America and one of the most vibrant examples of indigenous culture on the entire continent. The Otavaleños, a Quechua people, are known for their masterful textile arts, their distinctive clothing (men with long black braids and white pants, women with embroidered blouses and golden necklaces), and their business acumen.

The Saturday Market

Every Saturday, Otavalo transforms into a firework of colors. The market spreads over several plazas: The Plaza de los Ponchos is the center — here you'll find handwoven rugs, alpaca sweaters, embroidered tablecloths, leather goods, jewelry, and traditional ponchos in hundreds of colors. Farmers sell fruits, vegetables, herbs, and live animals in the surrounding area (the livestock market starts at 6 a.m. — a unique experience). The market takes place daily, but Saturday is the largest and most atmospheric.

Around Otavalo

• Laguna de Cuicocha — A deep blue crater lake at 3,064 meters in the caldera of an extinct volcano, with two small islands in the middle. The circuit (4–5 hours, 14 km) is one of the most beautiful day hikes in Ecuador. Entrance: 5 USD.
• Cascada de Peguche — A sacred waterfall of the Otavaleños, 15 minutes on foot from the town. Especially important during Inti Raymi (the solstice festival in June), when ritual cleansing ceremonies take place here.
• Cotacachi — Known as the "Leather City" for its leather goods shops. The town has a pretty colonial square and is the starting point for Laguna de Cuicocha.
• Ibarra — The "white city" (because of its white colonial buildings) is an hour north of Otavalo. Famous for helados de paila — handmade ice cream stirred in copper kettles on straw.

Getting there: Buses run every 15 minutes from Quito's Terminal Carcelén to Otavalo (2–2.5 hours, 2.50 USD). Be there by 8 a.m. for the full Saturday market.

Alexander von Humboldt called the route between Quito and Riobamba the "Avenida de los Volcanes" — the Avenue of the Volcanoes. Over a length of 300 km, more than 30 active and extinct volcanoes line both sides of the highland valley, many of them over 5,000 meters high. It is one of the most spectacular landscapes in South America.

Cotopaxi (5,897 m)

The Cotopaxi is the epitome of the perfect volcano: a symmetrical cone crowned by a snow-white glacier, standing out against the deep blue Andean sky. It is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world and the most photographed motif in Ecuador. The national park (entrance: 5 USD) surrounds the volcano with a páramo landscape of grassland and wild horses.

The Refugio José Rivas at 4,864 meters is the starting point for summit climbs. The ascent to the summit starts around midnight and takes 6–8 hours — you need a certified mountain guide, crampons, and glacier equipment. It is not a technically difficult climb, but the altitude is brutal. Alternative: hike to the Refugio hut (1.5 hours from the parking lot) and back — an impressive experience even without summit ambitions.

Chimborazo (6,263 m)

Ecuador's highest mountain and a geological curiosity: Due to the Earth's equatorial bulge, the summit of Chimborazo is the farthest point from the Earth's center on the surface — farther than Mount Everest. The ascent is technically more challenging than Cotopaxi and requires acclimatization and experience. The bike descent from the First Refugio hut (5,000 meters) down to Riobamba is an adventure for every fitness level.

Quilotoa Crater Lake

The Quilotoa is an emerald-green crater lake at 3,914 meters in an extinct volcano — one of Ecuador's most breathtaking natural wonders. The view from the crater rim into the turquoise water 280 meters below you is unreal. The Quilotoa Loop, a 3–5-day hike through indigenous villages along the crater, is one of the best treks in the country. Accommodation in simple community houses. Alternatively: day trip from Quito or Latacunga (2 hours drive).

Baños de Agua Santa

Baños is Ecuador's adventure capital. The town at the foot of the active Tungurahua volcano (2,999 meters above sea level) offers an incredible density of activities: canyoning, rafting, mountain biking, paragliding, horseback riding, zip-lining, and the famous "Swing at the End of the World" (Casa del Árbol). The Ruta de las Cascadas — a 20 km road past dozens of waterfalls, best by bike — is a highlight. Hot thermal springs (termas) offer relaxation after the adventure. Baños is the ideal place for 2–3 days of action.

Cuenca (officially: Santa Ana de los Ríos de Cuenca) is considered the most beautiful city in Ecuador — and many say, in all of South America. Located at 2,560 meters, the country's third-largest city enchants with perfectly preserved colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, flower-adorned balconies, and a relaxed atmosphere that invites you to stay. It's no wonder Cuenca is a favorite among expats from around the world.

Highlights in Cuenca

• Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción (Catedral Nueva) — The imposing new cathedral with its blue domes dominates the skyline. The interior is surprisingly simple, but the dimensions are impressive. The tower offers a magnificent view.
• Parque Calderón — The central square with the old and new cathedral, surrounded by cafés and restaurants. Illuminated and atmospheric in the evenings.
• Mercado 10 de Agosto — Cuenca's central market is a culinary adventure: fresh juices (25 cents!), hornado (roast pig), mote pillo (corn with eggs), and traditional soups. It doesn't get more authentic than this.
• Barranco & Río Tomebamba — The steep riverbanks of the Tomebamba River, lined with colonial houses with balconies, are the most photogenic motif of the city. Especially beautiful at sunset.
• Panama Hats — Despite the name, the famous "Panama hats" come from Ecuador — specifically from the Cuenca region. At the Museo del Sombrero (Homero Ortega), you can watch the making of the fine toquilla straw hats. The finest examples cost over 1,000 USD and take months to produce.

Around Cuenca

• Parque Nacional Cajas — Just 30 km west lies this extraordinary national park: over 230 glacial lakes in a páramo landscape at 3,100–4,450 meters. Day hikes through a surreal high moorland with Polylepis trees (the highest trees in the world). Entrance: free. Bus from Cuenca: 1 hour, 2 USD.
• Ingapirca — The most significant Inca ruin in Ecuador, 80 km north of Cuenca. Not comparable to Machu Picchu, but the elliptical sun temple and the fusion of Inca and Cañari architecture are fascinating. Entrance: 6 USD.
• Gualaceo & Chordeleg — Two charming villages east of Cuenca: Gualaceo is known for its fruit markets and ikat-woven textiles, Chordeleg for goldsmithing and filigree jewelry.

Cuenca deserves at least 2–3 days — not just for the sights, but for the atmosphere. The city has a tranquility and elegance that Quito lacks.