Food & Drink

Athens is a paradise for bargain hunters. A souvlaki pita for 3-3.50€ is a complete meal: rolled flatbread, grilled pork or chicken, fries (!), tomatoes, onions, tzatziki. Two of those and a beer for under 10€ — that's a dinner.

Street Food

• Kostas (Plateia Agias Irinis 2): The tiny stall with a lunchtime queue that stretches around the corner. Only souvlaki, only pork, only perfect. Since 1950. Open only at lunchtime (11 a.m. - 4 p.m.), when the queue is gone, so is the meat. 3€ per pita. Cash only.
• O Thanasis (Mitropoleos 69, Monastiraki): Legendary kebab pitas (minced meat skewers) since 1964. Huge portions, the meat comes from the charcoal grill. Touristy, yes — but still good. Pita 4€, plate 8-10€.
• Bairaktaris (Plateia Monastirakiou 2): Since 1879 (!) on Monastiraki Square. Souvlaki and gyros with a view of the Acropolis. The quality varies (sometimes touristically negligent), but the place has history.
• Koulouri: At every street corner, vendors sell the sesame ring — Greece's answer to the pretzel. 0.50-0.80€, perfect as breakfast with a Greek coffee.
• Lukumades (Aiolou 21, Monastiraki): Small, fried dough balls, drizzled with honey and cinnamon — or with chocolate, pistachios, ice cream. The Greek version of the donut, only better. From 3€.

Taverns under 15€

• To Kafeneio (Epicharmou 1, Plaka): Hidden in a Plaka side alley, no English menu, grandma cooks. Moussaka, pastitsio, gemista (stuffed tomatoes) — all under 10€. This is how Greece really eats.
• Diporto (Sokratous 9, Central Market): A cellar hole without a sign, without a menu, without a website. You go down a staircase and sit among market traders. There's whatever is available: fish, beans, bread, house wine from the barrel (retsina!). Legendary. Only at lunchtime, cash only.
• Ama Lachei (Kallidromiou 69, Exarchia): Live music (Rebetiko!) + unbelievably good meze + tsipouro (grape brandy) for little money. Reserve on Friday and Saturday! Meze from 5€, tsipouro 4€ with free meze.

Athens mid-range offers an excellent value for money. For 25-45€ per person (including wine), you get food that would cost twice as much in Berlin or Munich.

• Scholarhio (Tripodon 14, Plaka): One of the best Meze-Ouzeries in Athens, housed in a charming neoclassical building. The meze are creative and fresh: grilled octopus with fava, zucchini keftedes, saganaki with honey. Reserve a table on the terrace with a view of the Acropolis. Meze 6-14€, main courses 12-18€.
• Cafe Avissinia (Plateia Avissinia 7, Monastiraki): Perched above the flea market, with a terrace that makes you fall in love with Athens instantly. Live bouzouki on weekends, waiters dance — and the food (lamb, meze, salads) is excellent. Open only Fri-Sun! Main courses 14-20€.
• Klimataria (Plateia Theatrou 2, Psyrri): Since 1927, one of the oldest taverns in Athens. Wooden barrels on the walls, retsina from the barrel, live music on weekends. Grilled lamb, stifado (stew), homemade pasta. The atmosphere is priceless. Main courses 12-18€.
• Mavro Provato (Arrianou 31, Pangrati): "The Black Sheep" — a modern tavern in Pangrati serving traditional Greek recipes with fresh ingredients and a creative twist. No tourists in sight. Meze 7-12€, main courses 14-22€.
• Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani (Sokratous 1, Central Market): A delicatessen-meze restaurant at the Varvakios Market. The meze are based on pastourma (air-dried beef), sujuk, and other specialties of the Anatolian Greeks. Unique in Athens. Meze 6-14€.
• Seychelles (Kerameikou 49, Metaxourgeio): Hipster brunch and creative Greek cuisine in an industrial-chic setting. Perfect for a late breakfast or early lunch. Brunch 12-18€.

Athens' gastronomic scene has made a remarkable leap in quality in recent years. The new generation of Greek chefs combines traditional ingredients and techniques with international finesse — and at prices that are a bargain compared to Paris, London, or Copenhagen.

• Spondi (Pyrronos 5, Pangrati): Athens' only restaurant with 2 Michelin stars. French-Greek cuisine at the highest level: scallops with verjuice, lamb with truffle, desserts like works of art. The courtyard with jasmine and candles is one of the most romantic places in Athens. Tasting menu from 120€, a la carte 80-120€ per person.
• Varoulko Seaside (Akti Koumoundourou 52, Piraeus): Chef Lefteris Lazarou was the first Greek with a Michelin star (since 2002, currently 1★). Fish and seafood in perfection, right at the Mikrolimano harbor. Grilled octopus, langoustines, creative fish dishes. Main courses 30-50€.
• CTC (Syngrou Avenue 44, Koukaki): "Creative Thane's Cooking" by Chef Thanos Feskos. Innovative Greek cuisine with Asian influences. The tasting menu (65€, 7 courses) is a journey through the Greek regions with surprises. Reservation required.
• Nolan (Voulis 31-33, Syntagma): Greek-Japanese fusion cuisine that sounds like a gimmick but turns out to be brilliant. Sashimi with Greek olive oil, gyoza with feta, ramen with lamb broth. 1 Michelin star. Tasting menu 75€.

A drink on a rooftop terrace with a view of the illuminated Acropolis is one of the essential Athens experiences. The following places are touristy, yes — but the view is real, and some things simply must be done.

• A for Athens (Miaouli 2, Monastiraki): The most famous rooftop bar in Athens — directly on Monastiraki Square with a frontal view of the Acropolis and Agora. Cafe by day, bar with DJs by night. Cocktails 12-16€. Arrive an hour before sunset to secure a spot.
• 360 Degrees (Ifestou 2, Monastiraki): Right next to A for Athens, similar view, a bit more relaxed. Good cocktails, small meze menu. Less Instagrammable, but cozier. Cocktails 10-14€.
• Couleur Locale (Normanou 3, Monastiraki): Hidden entrance in a side alley, elevator to the 3rd floor — and then this view. Sunny terrace by day, cocktails with DJ music and Acropolis panorama by night. Less known than A for Athens, but more atmospheric. Cocktails 10-14€.
• GB Roof Garden (Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma): The most elegant rooftop in Athens. The view from the roof of the Grande Bretagne encompasses the Acropolis, Parliament, Lycabettus, and the National Garden. Cocktails from 18€, dinner from 50€ per person. Dress code: smart casual.
• Thea Terrace (Dionysiou Areopagitou 19, Koukaki): Less known, but possibly with the best view: The Acropolis seems within reach. Good restaurant with Greek cuisine and international influences. Reservation recommended. Main courses 16-28€.

Greek street food is among the best and most affordable in the world. An overview of the main classics:

• Souvlaki: Small skewers with grilled meat (pork, chicken, rarely lamb). Either as a skewer (kalamaki) or in a pita roll with tomatoes, onions, fries, and tzatziki. THE Greek fast food. 2.50-3.50€ per pita.
• Gyros: Meat (pork or chicken) from the rotisserie, served in pita. The difference from souvlaki: Gyros is cut from the large meat cone, souvlaki are individual pieces on a skewer. Gyros pita: 3-4€.
• Loukoumades: Fried dough balls with honey and cinnamon (or chocolate, Nutella, pistachios — the modern variant). Hot and fresh, they are a dream. From 3€ per portion.
• Koulouri: Sesame rings, Greece's answer to the pretzel. Available at every kiosk (periptero) and from street vendors. Perfect breakfast for 0.50-0.80€.
• Bougatsa: Puff pastry pie filled with vanilla cream (sweet) or cheese/minced meat (savory). Originating from Thessaloniki, but available everywhere in Athens. From 3€.
• Tyropita / Spanakopita: Puff pastry pockets with feta (tyropita) or spinach-feta (spanakopita). In every bakery (fournos) for 2-3€. The standard breakfast of many Athenians.
• Greek Coffee: Heated in a briki (small copper pot) on sand, unfiltered, with grounds. Order "metrio" (medium sweet), "gliko" (sweet), or "sketo" (without sugar). In every kafenio from 1.50€. Do not stir!
• Freddo Espresso / Freddo Cappuccino: The national drink of modern Greece: espresso shaken with ice, ice-cold, frothy. Indispensable in summer. 2.50-4€ everywhere.