Ionian Islands
Discover the Ionian Islands
The Ionian Islands (Greek: Eptanisa, the "Seven Islands") are Greece's green counterbalance to the barren Cycladic aesthetic. Seven main islands — Corfu, Zakynthos, Kefalonia, Lefkada, Ithaca, Paxi, and Kythira — line up along the Greek west coast, protected from the dry Meltemi winds of the Aegean and blessed with significantly more rainfall. The result: dense cypress forests, olive groves down to the sea, lush greenery even in midsummer, and vegetation that is more reminiscent of southern Italy than the typical Greek islands.
What sets the Ionian Islands apart from all other Greek island groups is their history. While the rest of Greece was under Ottoman rule for centuries, the Ionian Islands belonged to the Republic of Venice (1386–1797). Then came the French briefly, then the British, and only in 1864 were they united with Greece. This Venetian past shapes everything: the architecture with its arcades and bell towers, the cuisine with pasta and Sofrito, the music with Italian-influenced cantatas, and even the dialect.
Each island has its own character:
- Corfu — The cosmopolitan queen with UNESCO old town and Venetian flair
- Zakynthos — Dramatic cliffs, the most famous beach in Greece, and sea turtles
- Kefalonia — The largest Ionian island with Myrtos Beach and magical caves
- Lefkada — Caribbean beaches and accessible by bridge
- Ithaca — Homer's homeland, small, quiet, and timeless
- Paxi — Tiny, car-free in many places, with spectacular sea cliffs
- Kythira — Geographically isolated, between Peloponnese and Crete, wild and original
The best travel time is May to October, with spring (May/June) being particularly beautiful — everything is in bloom, temperatures are pleasant (22–28°C), and the beaches are not yet crowded. July/August are hot (up to 35°C) and full, September/October offer warm sea (24–26°C) and fewer tourists.
Tipp
The Ionian Islands are perfect for island hopping by ferry. Kefalonia, Ithaca, and Lefkada are close together and can be wonderfully combined in 10–14 days. Corfu and Zakynthos are more individual destinations.
Corfu★★★
Corfu (Kerkyra) is the second-largest Ionian island, the most cosmopolitan, and the one with the richest history. 592 km² area, 100,000 inhabitants, a UNESCO World Heritage Old Town, Venetian fortresses, British palaces, French elegance — and in between, beaches ranging from Caribbean turquoise to dramatic rocky coves.
Corfu has always been the most fashionable of the Greek islands. The British royal family spent summers here (Prince Philip was born in Mon Repos in 1921), Empress Sisi built the Achilleion Palace, and the Venetian elite left behind an old town unique in its elegance in Greece. Gerald Durrell wrote "My Family and Other Animals" here — a book that made the island world-famous.
The island has two very different faces: the cultivated north and east with elegant bays, villas, and good restaurants, and the more touristy south with package tourism (especially Kavos). The northwest around Paleokastritsa is among the most beautiful coastal landscapes in Greece.
Plan at least 5–7 days for Corfu. The island is large enough to never get bored, and a rental car is highly recommended — public buses run regularly but do not cover everything.
Corfu Town (Kerkyra)★★★
The Old Town of Corfu has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007 — and rightly so. No other Greek city looks like this: Venetian alleys (Kantounia) so narrow you could touch the clotheslines between the houses, French arcades on the Liston promenade, British palace architecture, and everywhere the warm ochre tones of the Venetian facades.
The heart of the Old Town is the Spianada Square (Esplanade) — with 40,000 m² the largest square in Greece and one of the largest in Europe. On the west side, the Liston Arcades, an elegant row of cafés under French arches, modeled after the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. The British added the cricket field, where cricket is still played today — a surreal sight in the Greek Mediterranean.
Stroll through the alleys of the Old Town (Campiello district in the north, Kofineta in the south) and let yourself drift. Every corner holds a small church, a hidden café, or a view of the sea. The Agios Spyridon Church houses the remains of the island's patron saint in a silver sarcophagus — four times a year he is carried through the town in a colorful procession.
Visit the Antivouniotissa Palace (now a museum of Byzantine and post-Byzantine art, 4€) and the Agios Iasonas & Sosipatros Church (12th century, one of the oldest on the island). The Old Port (Mandraki) offers a fantastic backdrop for an aperitif with a view of the illuminated Old Fortress in the evening.
Tip for the city stroll: Start at the Old Fortress, walk across the Spianada to the Liston, then into the alleys of the Campiello, to the Agios Spyridon Church, and to the New Port. Duration: 2–3 hours without museums.
Tipp
Corfu Town has the best Italian-Greek fusion cuisine. Try Sofrito (veal in garlic-white wine sauce) and Pastitsada (rooster in tomato sauce with pasta) — both unique to the Ionian Islands!
Old Fortress & New Fortress★★
★★★ Old Fortress (Palaio Frourio)
The Old Fortress sits atop a rocky peninsula east of the old town, separated from the mainland by an artificial canal (Contrafossa). Originally Byzantine (6th century), it was massively expanded by the Venetians and was one reason why Corfu was the only Greek island never conquered by the Ottomans.
The climb to the highest point is steep, but the panoramic view over the old town, the mainland, and the Albanian coast is breathtaking. Inside, the Anglican St. George's Church (Doric style, built by the British — looks like a Greek temple), barracks, and prisons. In summer, sound-and-light shows take place.
€6 (combined ticket with New Fortress: €10). April–October: 8 am–8 pm. November–March: 8:30 am–3:30 pm.
★★ New Fortress (Neo Frourio)
The New Fortress (1576–1645) stands at the northwestern edge of the old town and, despite its name, is only 30 years younger than the Old Fortress. Less visited, but more atmospheric: winding passages, underground tunnels, and a rooftop café with a grand view over the harbor. The fortress also houses a small ceramics exhibition and changing art installations.
€4 (or €10 combined ticket). Same hours as Old Fortress. The rooftop café often has better prices than the Liston cafés below.
Achilleion Palace★★
The Achilleion is Empress Elisabeth's (Sissi's) summer palace, located 10 km south of Corfu Town in the village of Gastouri. The melancholic Austrian empress had it built in 1890–1892 as an escape from the Viennese court — a pompous neoclassical palace with a garden full of Greek god statues, dedicated to her favorite hero Achilles.
The garden is the highlight: terraced with views over Corfu's east coast, lined with statues of the nine muses, Hermes, and as a crowning glory, the "Dying Achilles" statue on the upper floor and the triumphant "Victorious Achilles" (11 m high!) at the highest point — the latter was installed by Kaiser Wilhelm II, who bought the palace after Sissi's assassination in 1898.
Inside: Sissi's private chapel, her writing room with a sea view, an opulent staircase with a painting of Achilles' triumph over Hector, and Wilhelm's ostentatious throne room. The museum tells the story of both eccentric residents — and the contrast between Sissi's romantic antiquity enthusiasm and Wilhelm's military megalomania is fascinating.
Entry: €10 (adults), €5 (reduced). April–October: 8 am–7:30 pm. November–March: 8:30 am–3:30 pm. Audio guide €3 (worth it for the background stories).
Tipp
The garden is most beautiful in the morning when the light makes the statues glow golden and the tour buses haven't arrived yet. It gets crowded from 11 a.m. Best to come at opening at 8 a.m.
Mon Repos★
The Mon Repos Palace is located in a beautiful park on the Kanoni peninsula, 2 km south of the old town. Built in 1831 by British High Commissioner Sir Frederick Adam as a summer residence, it was later handed over to the Greek royal family. On June 10, 1921, Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh (the future husband of Queen Elizabeth II) was born here — a fact the Greeks recount with a mix of pride and amusement.
Today, the palace houses the Museum of Palaiopolis (€3) with archaeological finds from Corfu. More exciting than the museum, however, is the park itself: 258 hectares of lush vegetation with ancient cypresses, walking paths to the ruins of the Doric Temple of Hera (6th century BC) and the Temple of Artemis. The walk through the park down to the coast takes about 45 minutes and is one of the most beautiful city walks in Corfu.
Park: free, daily 8 am–7 pm. Museum: €3, Tue–Sun 8:30 am–3:30 pm.
The Northeast: Kassiopi & View of Albania
The northeast coast of Corfu is the side of quiet elegance. Here, you look across the narrow channel to Albania — only 2 km away at the narrowest point. The mountains of the Albanian mainland form a dramatic backdrop, especially at sunset.
Kassiopi
The former fishing village (1,200 inhabitants) at the northeast cape is now an upscale small resort that has retained its charm. A horseshoe-shaped harbor with fishing boats and tavernas, above it the ruins of a Byzantine castle (13th century) overlooking the strait from Corfu to Albania. Nero is said to have sung here, Cicero visited, and Tiberius had a villa nearby.
Beaches: Bataria Beach (small, rocky, crystal clear, right on the edge of town) and Kalamionas Beach (pebbles, quieter, east of the town).
Agios Stefanos (Northeast)
Not to be confused with Agios Stefanos in the northwest! This tiny village consists of a handful of tavernas by the water and a boat dock. The view of Albania is the most beautiful here — on clear days, you can see the minarets of Saranda. Boat tours to Albania start here (day trip to Saranda/Butrint: from €35).
Kalami & Kouloura
Kalami is the village where the Durrell family lived in the 1930s — the White House (now a restaurant and holiday apartment) on the beach is world-famous from Gerald Durrell's books and the ITV series "The Durrells". The tavern on the ground floor serves fresh fish with a sea view — kitschy-touristy, but the location is truly magical.
Right next door is Kouloura — Corfu's most photogenic small harbor. Half a dozen fishing boats, a taverna, cypresses, crystal clear water. That's it. Perfect.
Tipp
The coastal road from Corfu Town to Kassiopi (approx. 35 km) is one of the most beautiful panoramic drives on the island. Plan 1.5 hours instead of the usual 45 minutes — you'll want to stop constantly.
The Northwest: Paleokastritsa★★★
Paleokastritsa is Corfu's most spectacular coastal section and one of the most beautiful places in all of Greece. Six turquoise bays nestle against steep, densely wooded cliffs — the water has colors you usually only get with Photoshop: emerald green, turquoise, cobalt blue, sometimes all in the same bay.
Legend has it that Paleokastritsa is the land of the Phaeacians from Homer's Odyssey, where Odysseus was washed ashore after his shipwreck and Princess Nausicaa saved his heart. Whether Homer was right, no one knows — but the setting is epic enough for any heroic saga.
★★★ The Bays
The main bay (Agios Spyridon) has the largest sandy beach with sunbeds, tavernas, and boat rentals. But the real magic lies in the hidden bays, only accessible by boat: La Grotta Beach (tiny rocky bay with diving platforms and a bar carved into the rock), Ampelaki Bay, and the Blue Caves — sea grottos where the light makes the water glow unrealistically blue.
Boat rental: From €20/hour for a small motorboat (no license needed, 30 HP). This is the best way to experience Paleokastritsa — just chug from bay to bay, anchor in secluded coves, jump into the crystal-clear water. Whole day about €80–100 including fuel.
★★ Monastery of Theotokos
On the promontory above the main bay sits the Monastery of the Virgin Mary (founded in 1225, current building from the 17th/18th century). A few monks still live here. Inside, a small museum with Byzantine icons and a courtyard with bougainvillea. But the real reason to visit is the view from the terrace — one of the best in Corfu.
Free (appropriate clothing: knees and shoulders covered, wraps at the entrance). 7 am–1 pm and 3 pm–8 pm (lunch break!).
Angelokastro
The ruins of the Byzantine fortress Angelokastro (13th century) sit on the highest point above Paleokastritsa — a 30-minute steep climb rewarded with a 360° panorama over the entire west coast. On clear days, you can see as far as Italy. The castle was the last refuge of the Corfiots during Ottoman attacks and was never taken.
€3. April–October: 8:30 am–3:30 pm. The path is steep and rocky — sturdy footwear!
Tipp
Come early in the morning (before 10 a.m.) or late afternoon (after 4 p.m.). Between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., the tour buses crowd in — Paleokastritsa is Corfu's most visited attraction. For boat rentals, it's best during the week.
West Coast: Beaches
★★ Glyfada Beach
Corfu's best organized sandy beach on the west coast. Golden sand, imposing sandstone cliffs as a backdrop, clear water with good waves for bodyboarding. Sun loungers (8–10€/set), beach bars, water sports. Lively in summer, but not as crowded as the east coast beaches. The sunsets here are legendary.
Myrtiotissa Beach
Corfu's official nudist beach — and according to Lawrence Durrell "perhaps the most beautiful beach in the world". Nestled between high green cliffs, with golden sand and crystal-clear water. The steep access (gravel road, then steps) keeps the crowds away. No infrastructure — bring water and food. Even for non-nudists, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island (the southern section is textile-friendly).
Ermones Beach
Protected bay at the foot of a densely wooded valley. The beach itself is pebbly, but the surroundings are lush green. Some researchers suspect this is the beach from the Odyssey where Nausicaa found Odysseus. Golf course (18-hole) directly above.
Agios Gordios
Long, wide sandy beach on the southwest coast with the striking Ortholithi rock in the sea. More relaxed than Glyfada, family-friendly, with a few taverns on the beach. The famous Pink Palace Hostel attracts young backpackers — those seeking peace should head to the northern beach section.
The South
Kavos — an honest warning
Kavos at the southern tip is Corfu's notorious party district — and frankly: not our thing. A single street full of neon bars where British 18-year-olds work through all-inclusive drinking binges. The beaches are mediocre, the restaurants optimized for fish & chips, and the atmosphere has about as much to do with Greece as Ballermann does with Mallorca. If that's your thing — no judgment. Everyone else: drive far away.
★ Lefkimmi
Only 4 km north of Kavos, but a different world. Lefkimmi is Corfu's second-largest town and feels as if tourism has forgotten it. A Venetian village with a river, bridges, churches, and taverns where only locals sit. The fishing port has charm, and the taverns serve fresh fish at local prices (fish platter from 8€).
★ Issos Beach & Korission Lagoon
On the southwest coast stretches an endless sandy beach next to the Korission Lagoon — a nature reserve with flamingos, herons, and turtles. The beach is windier than the sheltered bays of the west coast, but much quieter. Perfect for windsurfers and kitesurfers, or simply for long beach walks without crowds.
Cape Asprokavos (Arkoudillas)
The southern tip of Corfu: wild cliffs, an abandoned monastery, and the feeling of standing at the end of the world. No tourism, no infrastructure — just you, the cliffs, and the sea. Best with a car to the parking lot and then 20 minutes on foot.
Eating & Drinking in Corfu
Corfu's cuisine is unique in Greece — the Venetian and Italian tradition has created a fusion cuisine found nowhere else in the country. Pasta here is not a pizza accompaniment but a main dish. The local specialties:
- Sofrito — Veal schnitzel in garlic-vinegar-white wine sauce, Corfu's national dish
- Pastitsada — Braised rooster in tomato sauce with thick tube pasta
- Bourdeto — Spicy fish stew with paprika and onions
- Bianco — White fish poached in lemon, garlic, and potatoes
- Noumboulo — Smoked pork, marinated in wine
- Kumquat liqueur — Corfu's unique liqueur made from the Japanese dwarf orange
€ Budget
To Tavernaki tis Marinas · Solomou 20, Old Town
Hidden in an alley, only 6 tables. Marina cooks what the market offers: Moussaka, Pastitsada, grilled sardines. Everything homemade, portions huge, prices ridiculously low for the Old Town.
6–10€ · Mon–Sat 12–22 hrs.
To Dimarchio · Dimarcheiou Square
At the bustling Town Hall Square, lunch menu with salad, main course, and drink for 9€. Good Sofrito and Pastitsada. Locals mingle with tourists.
7–12€ · Daily 11–23 hrs.
€€ Mid-range
Rex · Kapodistriou 66 (Liston)
Since 1932 an institution on the Liston promenade. The terrace under the arcades is the best place for people-watching in Corfu Town. The cuisine: classic Corfiot with a modern touch. Sofrito, Pastitsada, and Bourdeto are among the best on the island. Wine selection with local drops.
14–25€ · Daily 10–24 hrs. · ★★
Etrusco · Dassia (9 km north)
Michelin-recommended, run by Greek TV chef Ettore Botrini. Creative Corfiot cuisine: deconstructed Pastitsada, Kumquat duck, seafood with a local twist. Beautiful garden, reservation required!
20–35€ · Tue–Sun 19–23 hrs. · ★★★
€€€ Upscale
The Venetian Well · Kremasti Square, Old Town
Corfu's most romantic restaurant: a medieval square with a Venetian well, candlelight, and a cuisine that combines Mediterranean fine dining with Corfiot ingredients. Tasting menu from 55€. Wine pairing from 35€. Reservation required, especially Friday/Saturday.
35–60€ · April–October: Tue–Sun 19–23:30 · ★★★
Accommodation in Corfu
€ Budget (under 80€/night)
Hotel Hermes · G. Markora 14, Corfu Town
Clean, simple hotel in the middle of the Old Town. The rooms are small but functional, some with a balcony to the alley. Breakfast acceptable, staff friendly, location unbeatable — 2 minutes to the Liston, 5 to the Old Fortress.
55–75€/night (double room) · Year-round
Sunrock Hostel · Pelekas (West Coast)
Corfu's best hostel, on a hill with infinity pool and sunset view. Dorms (18–25€) and private rooms (50–70€). Young atmosphere, shuttle to the beach.
18–70€ · May–October
€€ Mid-range (80–180€/night)
Siora Vittoria · Padova 36, Corfu Town
Boutique hotel in a restored Venetian city palace. 16 individually decorated rooms with high ceilings, Murano chandeliers, and antiques. Small courtyard for breakfast. The most beautiful mid-range hotel in the Old Town.
100–160€/night (double room) · March–November
Bella Venezia · N. Zambeli 4, Corfu Town
Elegant hotel in a neoclassical building right on Spianada Square. 32 rooms, tastefully renovated, garden in the courtyard. Rich breakfast buffet. Perfect location.
90–150€/night (double room) · Year-round · ★★
€€€ Luxury (from 200€/night)
Grecotel Corfu Imperial · Kommeno Peninsula
The flagship resort on the exclusive Kommeno Peninsula, 12 km north of the city. Private beach, three pools, spa, five restaurants. Bungalows and villas in tropical gardens. Pure Corfu glamour — diplomats and celebrities stay here.
250–600€/night · April–October · ★★★
Grecotel Eva Palace · Kommeno
Adults-only hotel on the same peninsula. Quieter, more intimate, with its own beach and infinity pool over the bay. Modern design, excellent restaurant. Ideal for couples.
200–450€/night · May–October · ★★★
Domes Miramare · Moraitika
Luxury boutique hotel with private beach, Autograph Collection (Marriott). 113 suites, many with private pool. Three restaurants, spa, kids' club. Modern style, less classic than the Grecotel houses.
220–500€/night · May–October
Zakynthos (Zante)★★★
Zakynthos (in English "Zante") is the island of extremes. In the west: dramatic, hundreds of meters high cliffs, at the foot of which lies the most famous beach in Greece — Navagio, the shipwreck beach that everyone knows from Instagram. In the east: gentle hills, golden sandy beaches, and the protected nesting area of the loggerhead sea turtle. And in between: a tourism spectrum ranging from mindless party scene (Laganas) to complete seclusion (west coast).
Zakynthos has 40,000 inhabitants, is 406 km² in size, and receives over 800,000 tourists in the summer — most of them British and Italians. The island was almost completely destroyed by a devastating earthquake in 1953, which also hit Kefalonia and Ithaca. Zakynthos Town was rebuilt in neoclassical style, but the old Venetian alleys were lost.
The smartest strategy for Zakynthos: take a rental car, stay in the quieter north or on the east coast, and make day trips to the highlights. 3–5 days are enough for the island.
Achtung
Laganas is a turtle nesting area. No lights on the beach in the evening, no loungers after sunset! The national park imposes hefty fines.
Blue Caves★★★
At Cape Skinari, the northern tip of Zakynthos, the sea has carved a series of natural rock arches and sea grottos into the cliffs, where the sunlight creates an unreal blue. The water reflects the light from the white rock walls and the sandy bottom — everything glows electric blue, even the skin when you jump into the water.
The most impressive grotto is the actual "Blue Cave" — a natural arch large enough for small boats. When the morning sun (9–12 am) shines directly in, the effect is strongest.
Access: Boat tours from Agios Nikolaos (the small harbor in the north, not the town on the east coast!) start every 30 minutes, duration about 45 min., €10 p.p. Or from Zakynthos Town as a full-day excursion combined with Navagio (25–40€). Those who rent a small motorboat (from Porto Vromi or Agios Nikolaos, about €50–80/day) often have the grottos to themselves in the morning.
Turtle Bay & Laganas★★
The Bay of Laganas on the southern coast is one of the last major breeding grounds for the Loggerhead Sea Turtle (Caretta caretta) in the Mediterranean. Between May and October, the females come ashore at night to bury their eggs in the sand. 6–8 weeks later, the babies hatch and instinctively crawl towards the sea — provided they are not confused by artificial light.
The National Marine Park of Zakynthos (founded in 1999) protects the nesting beaches — Gerakas, Daphni, Sekania (completely closed), and Kalamaki. Strict rules apply:
- No access to nesting beaches after sunset
- No loungers, umbrellas, or tents on marked nesting areas
- No artificial light near the beach at night
- Boats must keep a 300 m distance from breeding areas
- Fines up to 50,000€ for violations
Seeing turtles: The best place is Gerakas Beach in the southeast — in the morning, you might be lucky to spot turtles in the shallow water. In the harbor of Argostoli (Kefalonia), they are almost guaranteed — but the harbor of Laganas also has regular sightings. Guided eco-tours (from 35€, e.g., via the Turtle Information Centre in Gerakas) are the most respectful way.
Laganas Town itself is, similar to Kavos on Corfu, a British party hotspot. The main street called "Strip" is a single club at night. For the turtle national park, this mass tourism is a constant problem. Those who love the turtles are better off staying in Kalamaki (quieter, still on the nesting beach) or Vasilikos (family-friendly, close to Gerakas).
Achtung
Laganas is a turtle breeding ground. No lights on the beach in the evening, no loungers after sunset! The animals are endangered — respect the rules.
Zakynthos Town
Zakynthos Town (Zante Town, 11,000 inhabitants) was rebuilt in neoclassical style after the 1953 earthquake and today appears clean, orderly, but somewhat sterile compared to grown Greek port towns. Still, a half-day is worthwhile:
Agios Dionysios
The church of the island's patron saint Dionysios at the south end of the waterfront — the striking freestanding bell tower is a landmark of the town. Inside, the silver shrine of the saint and colorful frescoes. Free.
Solomos Museum
On Markusplatz (the most Venetian square in town): Museum about Dionysios Solomos, who wrote the Greek national anthem — on Zakynthos! Also works by poet Andreas Kalvos. Interesting for literature fans, otherwise optional. €4, Mon–Sat 9 am–2 pm.
Bohali Hill
Above the town, the Venetian Castle Bohali (ruin, freely accessible) offers a great panoramic view over the town, the harbor, and the bay. In the village of Bohali, there are several tavernas with view terraces — perfect for dinner at sunset.
Waterfront Promenade
The waterfront promenade (Strata Marina) from the Agios Dionysios Church to Solomos Square is the place for the evening Volta (stroll). Cafés, ice cream parlors, fishing boats — relaxed Greek small-town life.
Other Beaches
★★ Gerakas Beach
At the southeastern cape: golden sand, shallow water, turtle nesting area. Sunbeds only in the unmarked area, beach closes at sunset. The cliffs behind are made of soft marl and constantly erode — don't sit directly against the rock wall!
★★ Porto Limnionas
Not a beach in the classic sense, but a natural rock pool on the west coast — a narrow gorge between cliffs leading into the crystal-clear sea. You lie on the rocks, jump into the deep water, and swim into the caves. A taverna above the cliff with a grand view. One of the island's best-kept secrets — although Instagram is increasingly changing that.
★ Xigia Beach
Tiny bay on the northeast coast with a natural sulfur spring: The water is milky-turquoise and smells slightly of sulfur. Supposedly healing for the skin. Very small, quickly fills up in summer. Come in the morning, spread a towel on the rocks, glide into the healing water.
Banana Beach
The largest beach on the island on the Vasilikos peninsula. Organized part with sunbeds and beach bar, natural part further north. Golden sand, shallow water, good for families. Water sports possible.
Porto Zoro & Porto Roma
Two smaller bays on the Vasilikos peninsula. Porto Zoro is more photogenic (rock formations in the water), Porto Roma quieter and sandier. Both family-friendly with a taverna on the beach.
Kefalonia★★★
Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian Islands (781 km²) and perhaps the most versatile. It has everything: one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (Myrtos), a magical underground cave (Melissani), the best-preserved Venetian village of the Ionian Islands (Fiskardo), and a wild mountain landscape with the highest peak of all the Ionian Islands — Mount Ainos (1,628 m), the last site of the endemic Kefalonia fir.
The earthquake of 1953 destroyed almost every building on the island — only Fiskardo in the north was spared. The reconstruction was utilitarian, and Kefalonia is architecturally less appealing than Corfu. But the nature makes up for everything: dramatic cliffs, bright turquoise bays, pine forests, olive groves, and a light that sends photographers into ecstasy.
The film "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" (2001, starring Nicolas Cage and Penélope Cruz) was filmed on Kefalonia and made the island internationally known. The island is just as beautiful as in the film — only more authentic because the filmmakers dismantled the sets afterward.
Plan 5–7 days. A rental car is almost mandatory — the island is large, the sights are scattered, and the mountain roads (especially to the Myrtos viewpoint) are winding and spectacular.
Tipp
Captain Corelli's Mandolin was filmed here — Kefalonia is just as beautiful as in the movie, only more authentic.
Myrtos Beach★★★
Myrtos Beach appears on practically every "Most Beautiful Beaches in the World" list — and after the first look from the viewpoint, you'll understand why. A wide, crescent-shaped bay framed by 300-meter-high limestone cliffs, white pebble beach, and water in such an intense turquoise that it seems surreal. The contrast between the white beach, the turquoise sea, and the gray-beige cliffs is simply breathtaking.
The approach is via a steep, winding road from above — the viewpoint halfway offers THE panoramic photo and is one of the most photographed places in Greece. Down at the beach, there is a small kiosk with drinks and sunbed rental in summer (sunbed set: €10). Otherwise: nothing. No shade, no restaurant.
Important: The beach consists of white pebbles (not sand!), the water gets deep quickly, and there can be a strong current — better not to swim when it's windy. Bathing shoes are advisable. In the afternoon, the beach is partly in the cliff's shadow, so come in the morning (from 9 am).
Access: Between Argostoli and Fiskardo on the west coast road. From Argostoli about 30 km (45 min., winding). Parking above on the road (free), from there serpentine down to the beach (by car or on foot, 15 min.).
Tipp
The viewpoint over Myrtos is best in the morning (sun in the east illuminates the beach). Better to swim during the week — on weekends and in August, the beach is crowded. Be sure to bring enough water!
Melissani Cave★★
The Melissani Cave is one of those places you have to see to believe. An underground cave with a lake, whose ceiling partially collapsed thousands of years ago — and through this hole in the ceiling, sunlight falls directly onto the crystal-clear water below. The result: an unreal, deep blue glow that bathes the entire cave space in color. When the midday sun shines directly through the ceiling opening (around 12–14 hrs), the effect is most spectacular.
The lake is up to 40 meters deep and is fed by underground springs that mix seawater with freshwater — a geological curiosity that puzzled scientists for decades. The cave was rediscovered in 1951 by the speleologist Giannis Petrocheilos (the ancient Greeks already knew it — nymph figurines and Pan sculptures were found).
The visit is conducted via a guided rowing boat tour (approx. 15 minutes). The boatman explains the geology and stops for photos. Cheesy? A bit. Magical? Absolutely.
Admission: 7€ (adults), 4€ (children). May–October: 9–19 hrs. Best to visit between 12 and 14 hrs when the sunlight is most intense. In July/August, waiting times of 20–40 minutes are possible — come early or late in the afternoon.
Drogarati Cave
Just 4 km from the Melissani Cave lies Drogarati — a dry stalactite cave with 150 million-year-old stalactites and stalagmites, which was uncovered about 300 years ago by an earthquake. The main chamber ("Hall of Splendor") is 65 meters long and has such impressive natural acoustics that concerts are actually held here — Maria Callas is said to have sung here once.
The cave is less spectacular than Melissani, but a good stop along the way. The descent of 128 steps leads into another world: a constant 18°C, dripping stalactites, bizarre formations. Duration: approx. 20–30 minutes.
5€. May–October: 9–17 hrs. Combo ticket with Melissani: 10€ (saves 2€).
Fiskardo★★
Fiskardo is the jewel of Kefalonia and the only village of the Ionian Islands that survived the 1953 earthquake almost unscathed. While the rest of the island lay in ruins and was rebuilt pragmatically, Fiskardo's Venetian stone houses in their warm ocher and terracotta tones remained standing.
The result: a picturesque harbor town that looks like a Greek picture book. Pastel-colored houses line a horseshoe-shaped natural harbor full of sailboats and fishing boats. Elegant tavernas on the quay, boutiques in the alleys, cypresses on the hills behind. Fiskardo is the most fashionable place in Kefalonia — in summer, the yachts anchor here, and restaurant prices are 30% above the island average.
Still, Fiskardo is definitely worth it. Take half a day: stroll through the harbor, have coffee in one of the waterfront cafés, swim at Foki Bay (1 km south, crystal clear, under cypresses, one of the most beautiful swimming spots on the island), and then have lunch by the water.
From Fiskardo, ferries to Ithaca (Frikes, 1 hour) and Lefkada (Vasiliki, 1.5 hours) depart — ideal for island hopping.
Best to visit in the morning or late afternoon — it gets crowded with day visitors at midday in summer. Restaurant tip: "Tassia" at the harbor (run by cookbook author Tassia Dendrinou, €€, fish).
Assos★★
Assos is located on the west coast on a narrow isthmus connecting the mainland with a wooded peninsula, on which a mighty Venetian fortress (1593) stands. The village itself consists of no more than 100 pastel-colored houses, a tiny harbor, three tavernas, and a pebble beach. It is incredibly photogenic — the view from the coastal road down to the village, the peninsula, and the fortress is one of the iconic images of Kefalonia.
The climb to the fortress takes about 20 minutes (steep, sturdy footwear) and rewards with a 360° panorama. The fortress ruins are extensive — the Venetians built a complete town here with churches, barracks, and a hospital. Today, everything is overgrown with wildflowers and pines. Free entry.
Assos is most beautiful outside the season (May/June, September/October) or late in the afternoon when the day-trippers are gone and the village belongs to the locals again.
Argostoli
Argostoli (13,000 inhabitants) is Kefalonia's capital and not a typical tourist spot, but a lively Greek small town with a rhythm that doesn't revolve around visitors. Completely rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake, it lacks old charm — but it has something better: authenticity.
De-Bosset Bridge
The oldest stone bridge over a sea bay (1813, British colonial period) connects Argostoli with the opposite shore of the lagoon. 689 meters long, flanked by an obelisk. In the morning, locals jog over it, in the evening it is illuminated.
★ Turtles in the Harbor!
The most surprising experience in Argostoli: In the fishing harbor, Caretta-Caretta turtles almost always swim right at the quay wall. They come because the fishermen throw their bycatch into the water. The best time is between 7 and 10 am — sometimes 5–10 animals are there at the same time. Just stand at the quay wall and look into the water. Free and better than any organized "Turtle Tour".
Market Hall (Agora)
The covered market hall on the square is the place for local products: Kefalonia honey (the famous thyme honey), Robola wine (indigenous grape variety, only on Kefalonia), herbs, local cheese. Most lively in the morning.
Koutavos Lagoon
The protected lagoon south of the bridge is a small natural paradise: flamingos and herons in winter, turtles in summer, and a pretty waterfront path for walking or jogging.
Restaurant tip: "Casa Grec" at the harbor (€€, Greek-Mediterranean fusion cuisine, best Robola wine in town) or "Ladokolla" (€€, street-food style, souvlaki and gyros right on the square).
Lefkada★★
Lefkada is the Ionian island that doesn't need a ferry. A floating swing bridge connects it to the mainland — you simply drive over it by car. This makes Lefkada the most accessible of the Ionian Islands and at the same time one that is often underestimated. Unjustly, because the west coast has beaches that rival the Caribbean.
The island (303 km², 23,000 inhabitants) is mountainous and densely forested. The west coast drops in dramatic cliffs to the sea, at the foot of which white pebble beaches hide in turquoise waters. The east coast is gentler, with sheltered bays and views of the offshore islands Meganisi, Skorpios (Aristotle Onassis' private island!), and Madouri.
Lefkada Town in the north is unspectacular but charming: Low earthquake-proof houses (upper floors made of wood and tin instead of stone), lively pedestrian zone, good taverns. The place does not live from tourism but is a real Greek small town.
Plan 3–5 days. Rental car recommended, especially for the west coast beaches.
Porto Katsiki★★★
Porto Katsiki is among the top 3 beaches in Greece — and that means something in a country with thousands of beaches. A crescent-shaped bay framed by vertical, bright white limestone cliffs that rise 100 meters high. The water in front: such an intense turquoise that you constantly want to rub your eyes.
The name means "Goat Harbor" — because in the past only goats could climb down the cliffs. Today, about 80 steep concrete steps lead from the parking lot down to the beach (an alternative route is available in summer). The descent takes 5 minutes, the ascent in the afternoon heat is somewhat more strenuous.
On the beach: white pebbles, sunbed rental (8–10€/set), a kiosk for drinks and snacks. In July/August, it gets crowded from 11 hrs — come early or after 16 hrs when many leave and the light on the cliffs turns golden.
Access: 40 km southwest of Lefkada Town (approx. 50 min.). Large parking lot above (free). In summer, shuttle buses from Vasiliki.
Tipp
The most beautiful moment at Porto Katsiki is in the late afternoon (5–7 pm): The sun is low, the cliffs glow golden, the day-trippers are gone, and the water is warmest. Perfect.
Egremni Beach
Egremni was until 2015 Lefkada's second super beach — a 2 km long white pebble beach under 200-meter cliffs, accessible via a staircase with 347 steps. Then came the earthquake in November 2015, which destroyed the stairs and caused massive landslides.
Since then, Egremni is mainly accessible by boat. In summer, taxi boats run from Vasiliki (from €10 one-way, about 20 min.). An alternative footpath from above exists, but it is steep, unpaved, and only suitable for experienced hikers (about 30 min. descent, shoes with good grip required).
The effort is worth it: Egremni is wilder and more secluded than Porto Katsiki, the cliffs even more dramatic, and on many days you have the beach almost to yourself. No infrastructure — bring everything with you.
Nidri & the Islands
Nidri on the east coast is Lefkada's tourist center — a pretty harbor town with tavernas, shops, and the starting point for boat tours to the nearby islands.
Meganisi
The small neighboring island (20 km², 1,100 inhabitants) is accessible by ferry from Nidri (30 min., €3). Three villages, hardly any tourists, crystal clear bays, excellent fish tavernas. The perfect day trip for those seeking peace.
Skorpios — Onassis' Private Island
The legendary private island of Aristotle Onassis, where he married Jackie Kennedy in 1968, lies directly off Nidri. After Onassis' death in 1975 and his daughter Christina's in 1988, the island belonged to the Onassis Foundation. In 2013, it was reportedly sold for €100 million to Russian oligarch Dmitry Rybolovlev. Entry is forbidden, but excursion boats pass close by and tell the stories — of Onassis' parties, Maria Callas' tears, and Jackie O's bikini photos that made the paparazzi rich.
Day Trip Routes from Nidri
The most popular tour (from €25 p.p.): Nidri → Meganisi (swimming break) → Skorpios (pass by) → Porto Katsiki (swimming break, by boat!) → back. All day, 10 am–6 pm, including a light lunch on some boats.
Windsurfing in Vasiliki
Vasiliki at the southern tip of Lefkada is one of the best windsurfing spots in Europe — and that's due to a meteorological phenomenon called "Eric". That's what the locals call the thermal afternoon wind that sets in like clockwork every day between 12 and 2 pm and blows until evening. In the morning, the bay is mirror-smooth (perfect for beginners), in the afternoon, the wind increases to 4–6 Beaufort (paradise for advanced and kitesurfers).
Windsurfing and Kitesurfing Schools:
- Club Vass — The most famous station, since 1987. Courses from €50/day, equipment rental from €30/day. British-run, international.
- Wildwind — Focus on catamaran sailing and windsurfing. Packages with accommodation from €600/week.
- Neilson — All-inclusive sports hotel with windsurfing program. From €800/week.
Vasiliki itself is a relaxed village with good fish and the ferry port to Kefalonia (Fiskardo, 1.5 hours) and Ithaca (Frikes, 1 hour).
Tipp
Learning to windsurf on Lefkada is ideal: calm water in the morning for beginners, wind in the afternoon for advanced. Most schools offer 5-day courses (from €200) that take you from beginner to independent surfer.
Ithaca★★
Ithaca is Homer's homeland — the island Odysseus sailed, fought, and suffered for ten years to return home. Whether the historical Odysseus really came from here is disputed among archaeologists (some suspect Kefalonia or even Lefkada). But that doesn't matter: Ithaca feels like the home of a hero — timeless, rugged, honest, and beautiful.
With only 96 km² and 3,000 inhabitants, Ithaca is one of the smallest inhabited Ionian islands. There are no large hotels, no clubs, no parties, no mass beaches. Instead: a few picturesque villages, secluded bays, olive groves, goat paths, and a silence you won't find in the Aegean or on Corfu.
Ithaca consists of two mountainous island halves, connected by a narrow isthmus at Aetos. In the south lies the capital Vathy, in the north the postcard villages Kioni and Frikes. The island is ideal for hikers, sailors, and all who seek pure Greece — without filters, without Instagram staging.
2–3 days are enough for Ithaca. The island is accessible by ferry from Kefalonia (Sami → Pisaetos, 30 min.) or Lefkada (Vasiliki → Frikes, 1 hr.). In summer, several times daily.
Tipp
Ithaca is the perfect island for those who want to escape the crowds. No clubs, no resorts — just pure Greece.
Vathy
Vathy (also Ithaki Town) nestles on the shores of one of the world's largest natural harbors — a fjord-like bay that reaches so deep into the land that from the sea, you only see the town when you're almost in it. This very bay, say the Homer fans, is the harbor where Odysseus' ship anchored.
The town itself is small (1,800 inhabitants) but pretty: neoclassical houses (rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake), a palm-lined waterfront promenade, a few cafés and taverns at the harbor, and the Cathedral of Panagia with a valuable icon collection. Everything feels disproportionately calm and peaceful — even in August.
Archaeological Museum
Small but relevant: finds from the island, including Mycenaean pottery and Bronze Age items from the Cave of the Nymphs. 2€, Tue–Sun 8:30–15:30.
Beaches around Vathy
Gidaki Beach — Ithaca's best beach, accessible only on foot (30 min. from Vathy, steep path) or by taxi boat (5€). White pebbles, crystal-clear water, no infrastructure, heavenly peace. The hike through the forest is part of the experience.
Filiatro Beach — Easier to reach (2 km south of Vathy, by car). Small pebble beach with a tavern. Family-friendly.
In the Footsteps of Odysseus
Whether Odysseus ever existed or is a literary hero — on Ithaca, you can follow in his footsteps, and the landscapes alone make it worthwhile:
Cave of the Nymphs (Marmarospilia)
Homer describes a cave where Odysseus hid his treasures upon his return. This cave above the Bay of Dexia (2 km northwest of Vathy) is traditionally identified with it. The cave itself is small and unspectacular, but the hike there (20 min. from the bay) offers beautiful views, and the feeling of immersing in Homer's world is priceless.
Arethousa Spring
Homer describes the well where the swineherd Eumaeus watered his animals. The spring (or what is considered it) is located on the southeast coast, accessible via a beautiful but challenging hike (about 3 hours round trip from Vathy, partly steep). Along the way, views over the coast to Kefalonia. At the end: a rock niche with a trickle and the priceless feeling of walking the same path as Odysseus.
Stavros & the "Palace" Site
In the north lies the village of Stavros with a small archaeological museum (free) and the excavation sites on the hill Pelikata, where British archaeologist Sylvia Benton made Mycenaean finds in the 1930s — possibly the site of Odysseus' palace. Nothing is confirmed, but the location above the Bay of Polis is breathtaking.
Bay of Polis
Below Stavros: a sheltered bay, in whose cave on the north shore Bronze Age votive offerings to Odysseus were found — the strongest archaeological evidence that the Odysseus cult was already located on Ithaca in antiquity. The cave is partially collapsed and not accessible, but the beach is nice for swimming.
Kioni & Frikes
★★ Kioni
Kioni is Ithaca at its most postcard-perfect: a tiny harbor with Venetian houses, three old windmills on the hill above, fishing boats in crystal-clear water, and bougainvillea on every facade. Kioni has no museum, no sights, no attractions — the place itself is the attraction. Sit in one of the tavernas by the harbor (recommended: Calypso, fish of the day from €10), drink an ouzo, and watch the boats. That's all you need.
In summer, sailing yachts anchor in the bay, giving the village an international flair without overwhelming it. Swim right on the edge of town from the rocks.
Frikes
Frikes on the northeast coast is even smaller than Kioni — a ferry port (boats to Lefkada and Kefalonia), a handful of houses, two tavernas, and that's it. The place is the perfect starting point for hikes in the mountainous north of the island. The road from Frikes over Platrithia to Stavros is one of the most beautiful panoramic roads of the Ionian Islands — olive groves, cypresses, views over the Aegean to Lefkada.
Restaurant Tip: "Penelope" in Frikes — named after Odysseus' faithful wife, serves honest Greek cuisine: moussaka, grilled octopus, fresh fish. Seating directly by the water. Main courses €8–14.
Practical Info: Arrival & Ferries
The Ionian Islands are easily accessible — both by plane and by ferry. Here are the main connections:
Direct flights from Germany (Summer, April–October)
| Island | Airport | From Germany | Airlines | Flight time |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Corfu | CFU (Ioannis Kapodistrias) | Frankfurt, Munich, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Berlin, Stuttgart, Cologne | Eurowings, Condor, Ryanair, Lufthansa, TUI fly | 2:15–2:45 hrs. |
| Zakynthos | ZTH (Dionysios Solomos) | Frankfurt, Munich, Düsseldorf, Hamburg | Condor, Eurowings, TUI fly | 2:30–3:00 hrs. |
| Kefalonia | EFL (Anna Pollatou) | Frankfurt, Munich, Düsseldorf (fewer connections) | Condor, Eurowings | 2:30–3:00 hrs. |
| Lefkada | PVK (Aktion, mainland) | Frankfurt, Munich, Düsseldorf | Condor, Eurowings | 2:30 hrs. + 30 min. transfer |
Lefkada has no airport of its own. The nearest is PVK (Preveza/Aktion) on the mainland, about 20 km from the bridge to Lefkada. Shuttle buses and taxis (25–35€) available.
Ferry Connections
| Route | Duration | Frequency (Summer) | Price (approx.) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Igoumenitsa → Corfu | 1:30 hrs. | Hourly | 10€ (Foot), 40€ (Car) |
| Killini → Zakynthos | 1:00 hr. | 6–8x daily | 9€ (Foot), 30€ (Car) |
| Patras → Kefalonia (Sami) | 2:30–3:00 hrs. | 2–3x daily | 15€ (Foot), 35€ (Car) |
| Kefalonia (Sami) → Ithaca (Pisaetos) | 0:30 hr. | 3–5x daily | 3€ (Foot), 10€ (Car) |
| Kefalonia (Fiskardo) → Ithaca (Frikes) | 1:00 hr. | 2x daily | 4€ (Foot) |
| Lefkada (Vasiliki) → Kefalonia (Fiskardo) | 1:30 hrs. | 2x daily | 8€ (Foot), 20€ (Car) |
| Lefkada (Vasiliki) → Ithaca (Frikes) | 1:00 hr. | 2x daily | 7€ (Foot) |
| Corfu → Paxi | 1:30 hrs. | 1–2x daily | 12€ (Foot) |
Ferries bookable via ferries.gr or directferries.de. In high season (July/August) book car ferries 1–2 days in advance! Foot passengers can almost always board spontaneously.
Island Hopping Route (10–14 days)
The classic Ionian Islands route for self-drivers or ferry hoppers:
- Day 1–4: Corfu (Flight from DE, rental car, Old Town + Paleokastritsa + Northeast)
- Day 5–7: Ferry to Igoumenitsa → Drive to Lefkada (via bridge) → Porto Katsiki, Nidri, Vasiliki
- Day 8–9: Ferry Vasiliki → Fiskardo (Kefalonia) → Myrtos, Melissani, Assos
- Day 10–11: Ferry Sami → Ithaca → Vathy, Kioni, Odysseus traces
- Day 12–14: Back to Kefalonia → Argostoli → Flight from Kefalonia or onward travel to Zakynthos (Ferry Kefalonia → Killini → Zakynthos, detour via mainland)
Rental Car
On all islands, there are local and international rental companies. Prices in summer: from 30–50€/day (small car). Tip: Local providers are often cheaper and more flexible than international chains. Recommended on Corfu: "Top Cars Corfu", on Kefalonia: "Karavomilos Rent a Car".
Bus
On Corfu, Zakynthos, and Kefalonia there are KTEL buses (green intercity buses) that connect the main towns. Timetables on ktelkerkyras.gr (Corfu) or the respective KTEL pages. Frequency: 2–8x daily depending on the route. Cheap (2–5€), but not ideal for remote beaches.
Best Travel Time
| Month | Temp. (Air) | Temp. (Water) | Character |
|---|---|---|---|
| May–June | 22–30°C | 20–24°C | ★★★ Ideal: Blossoms, few tourists, pleasant temperatures |
| July–August | 28–35°C | 24–27°C | ★★ Hot & crowded, but perfect swimming weather |
| September–October | 22–28°C | 23–25°C | ★★★ Warm sea, fewer tourists, gentle light |
| November–April | 10–18°C | 14–18°C | ★ Quiet, lots of rain, many places closed |
The Ionian Islands receive significantly more rain than the Aegean islands — that's why they are so green. Even in summer, there can be occasional short showers (especially on Corfu). That's the price for the lush vegetation.
Tipp
Ferries between the Ionian Islands are cheap and frequent — the island-hopping triangle Lefkada–Kefalonia–Ithaca works excellently even without a car. Simply book ferry + rental car separately on each island.
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