Thessaloniki

The landmark of Thessaloniki and the most photographed building in the city. The cylindrical tower (34 m high, 70 m in circumference) stands at the eastern end of the waterfront promenade and has a grim history: Under the Ottomans, it served as a prison and execution site — its old name was "Blood Tower." After the Greek liberation in 1912, it was whitewashed to symbolically wash away the past.

Today, the tower houses an interactive museum on city history, spiraling upward over six floors. The exhibition is modernly designed with multimedia stations, maps, and artifacts — from the founding by Cassander through the Byzantine heyday to the multicultural Ottoman era. The highlight is the observation deck at the top: 360-degree panorama over the city, the Thermaic Gulf, and on clear days, Olympus to the south.

Right in front of the tower begins the Nea Paralia, Thessaloniki's 5 km long waterfront promenade — one of the most beautiful in Europe. 13 themed gardens (rose park, sculpture park, playgrounds), bike paths, cafes, and the famous umbrella sculptures by Giorgos Zongolopoulos. In the evenings at sunset, the Paralia is the place where the whole city comes together.

Admission to the museum: 6€ (adults), 3€ (reduced), free under 25. Daily 8:30 am–3:00 pm (Monday from 10:30 am). Observation deck also accessible when closed.

While the lower town was almost completely destroyed in a devastating fire in 1917, the Upper Town (Ano Poli) was spared — and still preserves the character of old Thessaloniki. Up here, within the Byzantine city walls (UNESCO World Heritage), a labyrinth of narrow alleys, Ottoman wooden houses with bay windows, dilapidated mansions, and tiny churches with 800-year-old frescoes winds its way.

The climb to the Upper Town is worth it for the view alone: From the walls of the Eptapyrgio (Seven Towers Fortress) at the top, you have the best view over the city, the gulf, and — on clear days — Olympus. The Trigoniou Tower further east also offers a fantastic panorama, especially at sunset.

In Ano Poli, you will also find some of the most atmospheric taverns in the city. Tsinari and the alleys around the Trigoniou Tower are full of small venues with terraces and live music. Here, in the evenings, the locals sit with ouzo and meze, while the tourists party down in Ladadika.

Hidden among the alleys are several Byzantine small churches — Osios David (5th century, with a sensational mosaic of the Transfiguration of Christ), Nikolaos Orfanos (14th century, fully preserved frescoes), and the tiny Profitis Ilias. All free, all almost deserted.

Getting up: Bus No. 23 from Eleftherias Square (1.10€) or a 20 min steep uphill walk. Comfortable shoes are a must — the cobblestone streets are uneven.

This massive round building (24 m in diameter, 30 m high) is one of Thessaloniki's oldest surviving structures and has undergone more identity changes than any other building in the city. Built around 306 AD under Emperor Galerius — presumably as his mausoleum or temple. However, Galerius was never buried here.

Instead, the Rotunda was converted into a Christian church in the 4th century — and received spectacular gold-ground mosaics on the inside of the dome, which are among the oldest surviving Christian mosaics in the world. Saints in magnificent robes in front of imaginative architectural backdrops — some still astonishingly well-preserved.

After the Ottoman conquest in 1430, the church was turned into a mosque — the minaret (the only one preserved in Thessaloniki) still stands beside it. Since 1912, the Rotunda has been a museum and since 1988 a UNESCO World Heritage Site (as part of Thessaloniki's early Christian and Byzantine monuments).

Combine the visit with a walk to the nearby Kamara (Galerius Arch) — the triumphal arch of the same emperor, once connected to the Rotunda by a grand avenue. The Kamara is now a student meeting point and a lively scene in the evening.

Admission: 6€. Tue–Sun 8:30 am–3:00 pm. The minaret is currently not accessible.

Thessaloniki's historic market hall was reopened in 2023 after an extensive renovation and has since become the city's hottest food spot. Named after the Sephardic Jewish architect Eli Modiano, who designed the hall in 1922, the renovated market combines traditional vendors with a modern food hall — and actually manages to bring both under one roof.

On the ground floor, you'll find the traditional vendors: fishmongers with fresh catches from the Thermaic Gulf, butchers with Loukaniko (Greek sausages) and Pastourma (spiced dried meat), cheese vendors with mountains of Feta, Kasseri, and Metsovone, spice vendors with saffron from Kozani and wild oregano. On the upper floor and the peripheral areas, a food hall has established itself: craft beer bars, sushi, burgers, specialty coffee — all hip but not obtrusive.

Right next door is the Kapani Market (Vlali), a covered bazaar-like market that is even more authentic: locals shop here, and the prices are lower. Together, Modiano and Kapani form the culinary heart of Thessaloniki.

Mon–Sat 7 am–3 pm (Modiano), Kapani partly until 6 pm. Closed on Sundays. Most authentic early in the morning — that's when the fishermen deliver their catch.

The former oil merchants' district (ladi = oil) west of Aristotelous Square was a rundown warehouse district until the 1990s. Today, Ladadika is Thessaloniki's number one nightlife district — a labyrinth of cobblestone streets lined with restored neoclassical warehouses converted into restaurants, bars, and clubs.

During the day, Ladadika is a pleasant district for strolling, with some good restaurants (especially seafood) and cafes with terraces. But the real magic begins after 10 pm: Then the streets turn into one big party. The bars range from chic cocktail bars to rustic ouzeries to clubs with live Rembetiko or Greek rock.

On Friday night, Ladadika is the fullest — and the best. Greeks go out late (dinner at 10 pm, first bar at midnight, club from 2 am) and party until dawn. The Greek word for it: Kefi — a mix of joie de vivre, exuberance, and the feeling that the night should never end.

One of the most important museums in Greece — and the one with probably the most spectacular single exhibition in the country. The museum houses finds from all over Macedonia, from the Bronze Age to the Roman period, but the absolute star is the Vergina exhibition.

In 1977, archaeologist Manolis Andronikos discovered an unlooted royal tomb in Vergina (60 km southwest) — the tomb of Philip II of Macedonia, the father of Alexander the Great. The finds are sensational: a golden larnax (sarcophagus) with the Macedonian star, a golden oak wreath of breathtaking delicacy, armor, weapons, ivory miniatures, and silver drinking vessels.

Other highlights: the Derveni Krater (a 4th century BC bronze vessel of incredible craftsmanship — one of the masterpieces of ancient metalwork worldwide), golden masks from Sindos, and an extensive sculpture collection.

Admission: 8€ (adults), free under 25 and on the first Sunday of the month Nov–March. Daily 8:00 am–8:00 pm (summer), 8:30 am–3:30 pm (winter). Plan at least 2 hours.

Forget everything you think you know about Greek food. Thessaloniki is not just good — Thessaloniki is the undisputed culinary capital of Greece. The city has a unique gastronomic DNA: Byzantine cooking tradition, Ottoman influences (spices, sweets, street food), Sephardic Jewish recipes, Asia Minor flavors from the refugees of Smyrna 1922, and a vibrant modern food scene.

The result is a cuisine that is richer, spicier, and more diverse than in Athens or on the islands. Here are the dishes you must not miss:

Bougatsa — The breakfast of champions. Phyllo pastry filled with semolina cream (the sweet variant) or cheese/minced meat (the savory). Made fresh and served sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. The line at Bougatsa Bantis (since 1969) is already 20 meters long at 8 am — and it's worth it.

Gyros — Thessaloniki's gyros is different from the rest of Greece. Here it traditionally comes from the pork spit (not chicken), is juicier, more seasoned, and wrapped in thicker pita. The secret: the long grilling process and the spice mix. Best gyros: Derlicatessen in Toumba or Savvikos.

Seafood — The Thermaic Gulf provides fresh fish, squid, mussels, and shrimp. In the taverns at the harbor, you get grilled fish for a fraction of the island prices.

Meze culture — Thessaloniki lives the meze culture like no other Greek city. An evening begins with ouzo or tsipouro and a dozen small plates: tzatziki, taramosalata, grilled octopus, fava, saganaki, stuffed peppers, seafood croquettes... The round continues until the table is full and the ouzo is empty.

Sweets — Thessaloniki is the center of Greek patisserie, heavily influenced by Ottoman and Sephardic traditions: Trigona Panoramatos (triangular phyllo pastries with cream), Tsoureki (sweet Easter bread, available year-round here), Kataifi, Baklava, Galaktoboureko.

€ Budget (main course under 10€)

Bougatsa Bantis · Tsimiski 19 & Komninon
The legendary bougatsa institution since 1969. Sweet bougatsa with semolina cream (2.50€) or savory with cheese (3€). Fresh from the oven, crispy, buttery, heavenly. Worth standing in line in the morning.
2–5€ · Daily 6:30 am–10:00 pm

To Full tou Meze · Katouni 3, Ladadika
Tiny ouzerie with a big heart. A dozen meze plates for two people cost 15–20€ here. Everything fresh, everything delicious: grilled octopus, fava, saganaki, eggplant salad. Full of locals at lunchtime — always a good sign.
3–8€ per meze · Mon–Sat 12 pm–12 am

Derlicatessen · Karaoli & Dimitriou 7, Toumba
Thessaloniki's most famous gyros. Juicy, perfectly seasoned, in thick pita with tomatoes, onions, and tzatziki. Gyros pita 3.50€. Short line is normal.
3–6€ · Daily 11 am–1 am

€€ Mid-range (main course 10–22€)

Ergon Agora · Pavlou Mela 42
Food market meets restaurant. On the ground floor, a delicatessen market with Greek products (olive oil, cheese, sausages), on the upper floor a restaurant that transforms these products into creative dishes. Excellent breakfast (avocado toast with feta, Eggs Benedict Greek style). In the evening: grilled lamb, seafood risotto, truffle tagliatelle.
12–22€ · Daily 8 am–12 am · ★★

Ouzou Melathron · Katouni 21, Ladadika
The institution for ouzo and meze in Thessaloniki. Over 40 different ouzo varieties and matching meze: mussels in wine sauce, braised octopus, shrimp saganaki, zucchini keftedes. The two-story neoclassical building is beautiful. Reservation is mandatory on Friday evening.
15–25€ (with ouzo & meze) · Daily 1 pm–1 am · ★★

Zythos Dore · Tsimiski 7
Brewery atmosphere with a Greek twist. Own beers, plus hearty Greek cuisine: moussaka, stifado, lamb kleftiko. Large portions, fair prices. Ideal for lunch.
10–18€ · Daily 11 am–1 am

€€€ High-end (main course 22€+)

Extravaganza · Olympou 2
Thessaloniki's fine dining flagship. Modern Greek cuisine at the highest level: tasting menu (7 courses, 65€) with dishes like sea bass ceviche with pomegranate, lamb with eggplant mousse, mastiha panna cotta. Excellent wine list with northern Greek rarities (Xinomavro, Assyrtiko). Reservation recommended.
30–65€ · Tue–Sat 7 pm–12 am · ★★★

Nolan · Proxenou Koromila 10
Japanese-Greek fusion by young star chef Sotiris Kontizas. Miso eggplant, tuna tataki with feta cream, gyoza with lamb and mint. Modern, surprising, bold. One of the most innovative chefs in Greece.
25–40€ · Tue–Sat 1 pm–12 am · ★★★

Thessaloniki has one of the most intense nightlife scenes in Greece — fueled by 150,000 students and a culture where "going home early" means leaving at 3 am. Nightlife starts late (first bar from 11 pm, clubs from 1–2 am) and ends at breakfast.

Valaoritou Street

The coolest mile in the city. The formerly rundown street in the center has become the axis of the alternative scene: craft cocktail bars in former workshops, hidden speakeasies behind inconspicuous doors, vinyl bars, and small live music clubs. Highlights: Coo Coo (cocktails), Berlin (indie/electronic), Gorilla (rock/alternative).

Ladadika

More touristy than Valaoritou, but a safe bet for a good evening. The cobblestone streets are full of bars and taverns. Ideal for starting: first meze and ouzo in an ouzerie, then move on. Barrique (wine bar), Tribeca (cocktails), Aigli (live music).

Waterfront Bars (Nea Paralia)

In summer, nightlife shifts to the water. Along the waterfront promenade and especially in the Thermi/Kalamaria area east of the city, there are beach bars and open-air clubs with DJ sets, cocktails, and views of the Thermaic Gulf in the moonlight.

Bouzoukia

The ultra-Greek experience. In the Bouzoukia (Greek music clubs), live bands play Laika and Skyladika (Greek pop/schlager), the audience throws carnations on stage, dances on tables, and smashes plates. Completely over the top and absolutely unforgettable. Best-known Bouzoukia: Vogue, Fix. Admission includes a bottle of whiskey or champagne (from 80€ for the group). Only Friday/Saturday.

€ Budget (under 60€/night)

Little Big House · Mpotsari 25
Stylish boutique hostel in a renovated old building in the center. Bright dorms (from 18€) and private rooms (from 45€) with modern design. Great communal kitchen, rooftop terrace with city views. 5 min walk to Aristotelous Square.

Colors Central Ladadika · Katouni 6
Central in the Ladadika district. Clean, colorful rooms with private bathrooms. Double room from 50€. Breakfast 5€ extra. Ideal as a base for nightlife — everything is within walking distance.

€€ Mid-range (60–150€/night)

Electra Palace Thessaloniki · Aristotelous Sq. 9
Right on the legendary Aristotelous Square with sea views. Neoclassical facade, elegantly renovated rooms. The rooftop pool with panoramic views of the gulf is the best in the city. Double room from 100€, sea view from 130€. Breakfast excellent.
★★★ Location

Daios Luxury Living · Nikis Ave. 59
Right on the waterfront promenade. Minimalist-elegant design, marble bathrooms, floor-to-ceiling windows with sea views. Double room from 120€. The ground floor restaurant is worth a visit even without a hotel stay.

€€€ Luxury (150€+/night)

Makedonia Palace · Megalou Alexandrou 2
The Grande Dame among Thessaloniki's hotels. Opened in 1972, since then a meeting place for the Greek elite. Right by the sea, pool with sea view, several restaurants, legendary afternoon tea. Rooms classically elegant, some with balconies to the gulf. Double room from 170€, suite from 350€.

Excelsior Hotel · Komninon 10 & Mitropoleos 23
Boutique luxury in the heart of the city. Art Deco elements, individually designed rooms, first-class restaurant. Double room from 160€. Perfect location between Aristotelous Square and Ladadika.