Habana Vieja — The Old Town

The heart of Habana Vieja consists of four colonial plazas, laid out in the 16th–18th centuries and today partially splendidly restored. Together they form the core of the UNESCO World Heritage — each square has its own character.

Plaza de la Catedral

The most elegant square in Havana: the baroque Catedral de San Cristóbal (1748) with its asymmetrical towers dominates the north side. Cobblestones, colonial palaces with arcades, cafés under umbrellas, and live music in the evenings. Most walks through the old town begin here. The square is more atmospheric in the evening than during the day.

Plaza de Armas

Havana's oldest square (1519) — once the parade ground of the Spanish garrison, today a shady park with the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales (now the city museum). On weekends, a book flea market takes place here — antiquarian items, Che biographies, old maps, and revolutionary propaganda. The small restaurant on the square, El Templete, marks the spot where Havana was founded in 1519.

Plaza Vieja

The most colorful and lively square: an ensemble of restored colonial houses in pastel colors — pink, blue, yellow, turquoise. In the corner is the Cervecería Antiguo Almacén, Cuba's first microbrewery (fresh beer on the rooftop!). The Camera Obscura on the square offers a 360° view over the old town. Street musicians, cafés, and playing children — the square that shows Habana Vieja at its liveliest.

Plaza de San Francisco

The most elegant square at the harbor: the Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís (now a concert hall), the lion fountain, and views of the cruise terminals. Here are also the beautiful Convento de San Francisco and the Terminal Sierra Maestra (cruise port). Less touristy than the other plazas, but architecturally impressive.

Capitolio Nacional

Havana's most impressive building: a neoclassical palace from 1929, inspired by the US Capitol, but by Cuban standards even larger and more magnificent. The dome is 91.7 meters high, the diamond in the floor marks the kilometer-zero of all Cuban roads. Until 1959 the seat of parliament, today the seat of the Cuban Academy of Sciences. Newly restored and absolutely overwhelming — the highlight of Habana Vieja alongside the plazas.

Gran Teatro de La Habana Alicia Alonso

Right next to the Capitolio: one of the most beautiful theaters in the world. The baroque facade with angel statues and lions is spectacular, the interior no less impressive. Home of the Cuban National Ballet — tickets for a performance are dirt cheap (3–10 USD) and the experience unforgettable.

La Bodeguita del Medio

The legendary bar, supposedly Hemingway's regular spot for Mojitos. The walls are covered with signatures, graffiti, and photos. The Mojito costs more here than elsewhere (5–6 USD), but the atmosphere — live Son music, dense crowds, Cuban joie de vivre — is incomparable. Tourist trap? Yes. Still a must-visit? Yes.

El Floridita

The "Cradle of the Daiquirí": an elegant bar at the entrance of Calle Obispo with a Hemingway bronze statue at the counter. Here bartender Constante invented the frozen Daiquirí, and Hemingway supposedly drank it double (Papa Doble — no sugar, double rum). The Daiquirí costs 6–7 USD — expensive for Cuba, but the experience is unique.

Calle Obispo

Havana's most lively street: a pedestrian zone connecting Plaza de Armas with Parque Central. Shops, restaurants, street musicians, bookstores, art galleries, and a constant stream of Habaneros and tourists. Especially atmospheric in the evening with live music from every other door.

Museo de la Revolución

In the former presidential palace — a magnificent building from 1920, whose interior tells the history of the Cuban Revolution: from colonization through Batista to Fidel and Che. In the garden stands the yacht Granma, with which Fidel Castro crossed from Mexico to Cuba in 1956. Propagandistic? Yes. Fascinating? Absolutely. Admission: 8 CUC.

Ernest Hemingway lived in Havana from 1939 to 1960 — longer than anywhere else in the world. The city became his muse, his refuge, and the setting for his most famous work: "The Old Man and the Sea" (Pulitzer 1953, Nobel Prize 1954). Hemingway's traces in Havana are everywhere — and they are authentic, not staged.

The Hemingway Stations

• La Bodeguita del Medio: "My mojito in La Bodeguita" — whether Hemingway really wrote that is disputed. What is certain: He was often here. The Mojito tastes great, the atmosphere is unique.
• El Floridita: "My daiquirí in El Floridita" — here Hemingway drank his Papa Doble (double rum, no sugar, grapefruit juice). His regular spot at the counter is now marked with a bronze statue.
• Hotel Ambos Mundos: Room 511 — Hemingway stayed here before buying Finca Vigía. The room is a small museum (admission: 2 USD): typewriter, view over the old town, original furniture.
• Finca Vigía: Hemingway's house in San Francisco de Paula (15 km southeast). Original condition: 9,000 books, hunting trophies, typewriter, his boat Pilar in the garden. You look through the open windows inside — entry is not allowed. → Chap. Surroundings
• Cojímar: The fishing village that served as the model for "The Old Man and the Sea". Hemingway's friend Gregorio Fuentes (the model for Santiago) lived here. A Hemingway bust stands at the harbor.

Cuban cigars (Habanos) are considered the best in the world — and Havana is their center. The brands Cohiba, Montecristo, Partagás, Romeo y Julieta, and Bolívar are legends. All hand-rolled, from Cuban tobacco of the Vuelta Abajo region (Pinar del Río).

Where to buy?

• Casa del Habano: The official cigar shops with guaranteed genuine products, hologram seals, and certificates. There are several in Havana — the best is at Hotel Nacional (Vedado) and at Hotel Conde de Villanueva (Habana Vieja). Prices: 5–25€ per piece depending on brand and format.
• Fábrica de Tabaco Partagás: Havana's most famous cigar factory — tours are possible (5–10 USD). You can see Torcedores (cigar rollers) at work and buy in the attached shop.

Street purchase — Hands off!

On the street, you will constantly be offered "real Cohibas" — "straight from the factory, friendship price!" In 99% of cases, they are fakes: inferior tobacco, poorly rolled, with counterfeit bands. Even if they look real — the risk is not worth it. Only buy in official shops with hologram seals.

Enjoying smoking

Most Casas del Habano have a smoking lounge with comfortable leather chairs, a selection of rum, and expert advice. A Cohiba Siglo II with a glass of Havana Club 7 años — that's Cuba in its most concentrated form.

Habana Vieja's restaurant scene has greatly improved in recent years. The best options are the Paladares — private restaurants in apartments, courtyards, and on rooftops.

Recommendations

• Doña Eutimia: Right at Plaza de la Catedral — one of the best Paladares in the old town. Ropa Vieja (tender, braised beef) is a delight here. Reservation recommended. Main course: 8–15€.
• O'Reilly 304: Hipster-Paladar on Calle O'Reilly with excellent cocktails and Creole fusion cuisine. Young crowd, cool atmosphere. Main course: 6–12€.
• Cervecería Antiguo Almacén (Plaza Vieja): Cuba's first rooftop microbrewery — fresh beer and simple snacks with a view over Plaza Vieja.
• Street food: At the Esquinas (street corners) there is pizza by the slice (0.50€), sandwiches, and fresh fruit juices. Simple, but filling and an authentic Cuban experience.