Paúl Valley — The Green Heart
The Vale do Paúl is Santo Antão's lushest corner and one of the most fertile valleys in Cape Verde. While most islands of the archipelago are dry and barren, the Paúl Valley is a tropical paradise: sugarcane grows meters high, banana plants bear heavy clusters, mango trees provide shade, and the scent of coffee and Grogue lingers in the air.
Exploring the Valley
From the coastal town of Paúl, the valley stretches inland, becoming steeper, greener, and more dramatic. The terraced slopes are a masterpiece of human engineering: for centuries, residents have cultivated sugarcane, vegetables, and fruits on narrow terraces along the steep walls. The irrigation system of channels (Levadas) is reminiscent of Madeira — and indeed, many settlers come from the same Portuguese cultural circle.
Hiking in the Paúl Valley
- Paúl → Passagem → Cova (5–6 hours, challenging): The grand tour through the entire valley, from the coast up to the volcanic crater. 1,170 meters of ascent through every vegetation zone: tropical orchard, terraced fields, eucalyptus forests, mist. Reward: the view into the Cova crater from above. One-way — return transfer by Aluguer.
- Paúl → Eito → Passagem (3–4 hours, moderate): Shorter variant that leads through the lushest part of the valley. Past Grogue distilleries (Trapiche), where you can taste the fresh sugarcane schnapps. Through small villages where children wave and old women sit in the sun.
- Coastal hike Paúl → Janela (4–5 hours, moderate): Along the dramatic northeast coast, over rocks and through small bays. At the end awaits the rock gate of Janela — a natural stone arch in the sea, one of Santo Antão's landmarks.
Grogue — The Cape Verdean Sugarcane Schnapps
The best Grogue in Cape Verde is produced in the Paúl Valley. In traditional Trapiches (sugarcane presses, usually ox-driven), the juice is pressed from the sugarcane and distilled in simple distilleries. The result is a clear, strong rum of 40–50%, served fresh or as Ponche (mixed with honey, lemon, and herbs). A visit to a Trapiche is a must: you see the entire process and taste the fresh Grogue — often accompanied by the distiller's stories and a broad grin.
