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Regionen · Kapitel 4

Sal & Boa Vista

Cape Verde Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 4: Sal & Boa Vista
Regionen · Kapitel 4

Sal & Boa Vista

The two flat eastern islands are the tourist showcase of Cape Verde: endless white sandy beaches, turquoise sea, constant trade winds, and the best windsurfing and kitesurfing conditions in the world. Add to that salt flats, desert dunes, turtles, and a relaxing atmosphere that is addictive.

Sal — The Sun Island

Sal (Portuguese for "Salt") is the most touristy island of Cape Verde — and for good reason. The small, flat island of just 216 km² in the northeast of the archipelago offers what many travelers seek: endless beaches, perfect bathing weather, and a developed tourist infrastructure. The international airport Amílcar Cabral makes Sal the main gateway for European visitors.

The heart of tourist life beats in Santa Maria at the southern tip of the island. The former fishing village has developed into a charming holiday town — with colorful houses along a sandy main street, restaurants with fresh fish, surf shops, and one of the most beautiful city beaches in Cape Verde. Despite the tourist development, Santa Maria has retained its charm: fishermen pull their boats ashore in the morning, children play football between the houses, and in the evening, the bars transform into live music stages.

Away from Santa Maria, Sal is surprisingly barren and empty: A desert landscape of volcanic rock, sand dunes, and dried-up salt lakes stretches across the entire island. The former capital Espargos in the center is a functional small town that primarily serves as a supply point. The northern tip around Terra Boa is a surreal desert plain where mirages and lunar landscapes merge. Plan 3–5 days for Sal — enough time for beach, wind, and island tours.

The Most Beautiful Beaches on Sal

  • Praia de Santa Maria: The home beach of Santa Maria is a kilometer-long stretch of golden sand with crystal-clear, shallow water. Perfect for swimming, sunsets are legendary. Buy fresh tuna at the fishing pier in the morning.
  • Kite Beach (Praia de Fragata): Located southeast of Santa Maria, this beach is the mecca for kitesurfers. The constant trade wind (15–25 knots) and the flat lagoon offer world-class conditions from November to June. Several kite schools are directly on the beach.
  • Ponta Preta: West of Santa Maria, the spot for advanced windsurfers and wave riders. The wave breaks over a reef and reaches 3–4 meters with strong swell. International windsurfing competitions take place here.
  • Praia de Murdeira: Quiet bay north of Santa Maria with little wind and calm water — ideal for snorkeling. The protected area is home to sea turtles, rays, and trumpetfish.

Sights & Excursions on Sal

Pedra de Lume — The Salt Lakes

In the crater of an extinct volcano in the northeast of Sal lie the Salinas de Pedra de Lume — the historic salt lakes that gave the island its name. The salt content is so high that you float like in the Dead Sea. The descent into the crater through an old tunnel is atmospheric, and bathing in the pink salt lakes is a unique experience. Afterwards, you can rub yourself with salt mud — it's surprisingly good for the skin. Entrance: approx. 5€.

Olho Azul — The Blue Eye

In a cave near Buracona on the northwest coast, a natural rock pool glows in intense blue when sunlight hits it — the famous "Blue Eye" (Olho Azul). The phenomenon is most impressive between 10 and 12 o'clock on a clear day when sunlight falls through an opening and makes the water glow. In the surroundings, there are natural rock pools (Piscinas Naturais) where you can swim in seawater.

Terra Boa & Desert Tour

The north of Sal is a surreal desert landscape: endless plains of sand and gravel where mirages regularly appear — sometimes you see a shimmering "lake" that doesn't exist. A Jeep or Quad tour through Terra Boa is one of the most popular excursions on Sal. The ride passes rusty shipwrecks, abandoned villages, and the barren beauty of an island that is 90% desert.

Shark Bay — Lemon Sharks Up Close

In the shallow bay of Shark Bay south of Santa Maria, juvenile lemon sharks glide in knee-deep water. The animals are shy and harmless to humans. With a guide, you can stand in the shallow water and observe the elegant sharks up close — a fascinating experience for nature and diving fans.

Tipp

Book a combined island tour (Jeep or Quad) that connects Pedra de Lume, Buracona, Terra Boa, and Shark Bay in one day. The tour costs 40–60€ per person and covers all the highlights away from the beach.

Boa Vista — Dunes and Turtles

Boa Vista is the third-largest island of Cape Verde and rightly bears the nickname "Island of Dunes". Here you will find what Sal has in tourist infrastructure, multiplied in natural beauty and solitude: huge sand dunes directly bordering the turquoise sea, deserted beaches where you won't meet anyone for hours, and a desert landscape reminiscent of the Sahara.

The main town Sal Rei on the west coast is a sleepy town with colorful houses, a pretty waterfront promenade, and a harbor from which fishing boats cross to the offshore Ilhéu de Sal Rei. The city beach of Sal Rei is pleasant, but the true dream beaches lie in the south and east of the island — accessible only by four-wheel-drive vehicles over sand tracks.

Boa Vista's greatest treasure is the sea turtle population. The island hosts one of the world's largest nesting colonies of the loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta). From July to October, thousands of females come to the beaches at night to lay their eggs — an experience accessible to visitors under the supervision of conservation organizations and one that takes your breath away.

Plan 3–5 days for Boa Vista: two days for beaches and sea, one day for an island tour (dunes, desert, shipwreck), and — if you are there in the right season — one evening for the turtles.

The Most Beautiful Beaches on Boa Vista

  • Praia de Santa Monica: At 18 km long, one of the longest beaches in Africa — and one of the most beautiful. Fine, light sand, turquoise water, and absolute solitude. Accessible only by four-wheel-drive vehicle. No shade, no service, no people — just you and the Atlantic. Bring water and sun protection!
  • Praia de Chaves: The large beach west of Sal Rei, easily accessible on foot. 5 km of fine sand, gentle dunes, the all-inclusive resort RIU is at the south end. Good beach for families with a shallow entry.
  • Praia de Estoril: The city beach of Sal Rei — small but charming. Perfect for a sundowner in one of the beach bars. View of the Ilhéu de Sal Rei.
  • Praia de Curralinho (Ervatão): On the wild east coast, accessible only by four-wheel drive. A mighty beach with strong surf and impressive rock formations. One of the most important turtle nesting beaches — do not enter at night without a guide during the nesting season!

Achtung

Caution at the beaches of the east coast: Strong currents and high waves make swimming dangerous. Praia de Curralinho and Praia de Varandinha are for marveling, not for swimming. Swim only at beaches on the west coast (Chaves, Estoril) or inquire with locals.

Wind & Kitesurfing in Cape Verde

Cape Verde — especially Sal and Boa Vista — are among the top 5 wind sport destinations in the world. The constant northeast trade wind blows from November to June at 15–30 knots, water temperatures range from 22–27°C, and the spots offer conditions for every level: flat water lagoons for beginners, open ocean conditions for intermediates, and world-class waves for pros.

The Best Spots

  • Kite Beach, Sal: THE spot for kitesurfers. A flat lagoon with steady side-onshore conditions, warm water, and several kite schools right on the beach. Beginners learn in the lagoon, advanced riders go in deeper water. Kite course (3 days): 250–350€.
  • Ponta Preta, Sal: The holy grail for windsurfers — a perfect wave breaking over a reef, reaching 2–4 meters with northwest swell. World champions (Victor Fernandez, Philip Köster) train here. Only for advanced.
  • Praia de Chaves, Boa Vista: Flat beach with less crowd than Sal. Good conditions for kitesurfers who prefer tranquility. Fewer schools, but constant wind.
  • Lacação, Boa Vista: The secret spot on Boa Vista: flat water, few tourists, perfect for freestyle kitesurfers.

Practical Info

Season: November to June (best months: January–April). July to October is quieter but still surfable. Equipment: All major kite schools on Sal rent equipment (kite + board from 60€/day). Bringing your own gear saves money, most airlines allow kite luggage for an extra fee (30–50€). Wetsuit: A short wetsuit (Shorty, 2/3mm) is recommended from December to April when the wind cools. From May to October, boardshorts/bikini are sufficient.

Courses: Sal has the highest density of kite schools worldwide. Renowned schools: Mitu & Djo Kite School (Kite Beach), Surf Zone, Big Blue. Lessons are offered in German, English, French, and Portuguese. Three-day beginner courses (approx. 9 hours) cost 250–350€ and bring most students to independent riding.

Tipp

Sal has the best wind statistics from January to April: 25+ knots on 80% of the days. Those learning kitesurfing for the first time should plan at least 3 days of lessons — and not give up on the first day. The second day is the hardest, from the third it suddenly clicks.

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