Santo Antão

Santo Antão is the second-largest island of Cape Verde (779 km²) and by far the most dramatic. A massive mountain range divides the island into two completely different worlds: The Northeast side (Barlavento — facing the wind) captures the trade wind clouds and is lush green, covered with sugarcane, banana plants, mango trees, and dragon trees. The Southwest side (Sotavento — leeward) is barren, dry, and lunar — a moonscape of lava and scree.

The contrast is incredible: you drive over a mountain pass and switch from the Sahara to the tropics within minutes. This contrast, paired with a network of trails from the Portuguese colonial era (old cobblestone roads winding in hair-raising serpentines over 1,500-meter steep walls), makes Santo Antão the number one hiking paradise in Macaronesia — and one of the best trekking destinations in Africa.

There is no airport on Santo Antão — the island is only accessible by ferry from São Vicente (Mindelo). The crossing takes an hour and passes through the Canal de São Vicente, one of the windiest straits in the Atlantic. The ferry docks in Porto Novo on the south side, from where Aluguers (shared taxis) go in all directions.

Plan at least 3–5 days for Santo Antão — the island deserves to be explored on foot. The main towns are Ribeira Grande (Ponta do Sol) on the north coast, Paúl in the northeast, and Porto Novo on the southwest coast.

The Ribeira Grande (Portuguese for "Great Stream") is Santo Antão's most spectacular valley and one of the most impressive gorges in Cape Verde. From the plateau at Cova (an extinct volcanic crater at 1,170 meters), the steep walls plunge over 1,000 meters deep, terraced fields cling to dizzying slopes, and at the bottom, a stream meanders through tropical vegetation to the sea at Ponta do Sol.

The Hike: Cova → Ribeira Grande → Ponta do Sol

This hike is the absolute classic on Santo Antão and one of the best day hikes in Cape Verde. The path begins at the crater rim of the Cova de Paúl — an extinct volcano whose crater floor is used as farmland (a surreal sight: corn and beans grow in the volcanic crater). From here, you descend into the mighty gorge of the Ribeira Grande.

The path winds along terraced slopes, past small villages where Grogue is distilled and cassava is grown. The vegetation changes from eucalyptus and pine at higher elevations to sugarcane, bananas, and mangoes at the valley floor. The steep walls on both sides are breathtaking — you hike through a green canyon that changes with every step.

The path ends in Ponta do Sol, the northernmost place in Cape Verde — a charming town with colorful houses, a small harbor, and the best sunset on the island. Here, enjoy a beer at a beach bar and reflect on the day — perfect.

Practical Info

• Distance: approx. 12 km (one-way)
• Duration: 4–6 hours (Descent: 1,170 m → 0 m)
• Difficulty: Moderate — the path is steep but well walkable. Sturdy footwear is a must.
• Transport: By Aluguer from Ribeira Grande or Porto Novo to the starting point Cova. Return transfer from Ponta do Sol by Aluguer.
• Guide: Recommended but not mandatory — the path is relatively well-marked. A local guide costs 20–30€ and enriches the tour with knowledge about plants, villages, and history.

The Vale do Paúl is Santo Antão's lushest corner and one of the most fertile valleys in Cape Verde. While most islands of the archipelago are dry and barren, the Paúl Valley is a tropical paradise: sugarcane grows meters high, banana plants bear heavy clusters, mango trees provide shade, and the scent of coffee and Grogue lingers in the air.

Exploring the Valley

From the coastal town of Paúl, the valley stretches inland, becoming steeper, greener, and more dramatic. The terraced slopes are a masterpiece of human engineering: for centuries, residents have cultivated sugarcane, vegetables, and fruits on narrow terraces along the steep walls. The irrigation system of channels (Levadas) is reminiscent of Madeira — and indeed, many settlers come from the same Portuguese cultural circle.

Hiking in the Paúl Valley

• Paúl → Passagem → Cova (5–6 hours, challenging): The grand tour through the entire valley, from the coast up to the volcanic crater. 1,170 meters of ascent through every vegetation zone: tropical orchard, terraced fields, eucalyptus forests, mist. Reward: the view into the Cova crater from above. One-way — return transfer by Aluguer.
• Paúl → Eito → Passagem (3–4 hours, moderate): Shorter variant that leads through the lushest part of the valley. Past Grogue distilleries (Trapiche), where you can taste the fresh sugarcane schnapps. Through small villages where children wave and old women sit in the sun.
• Coastal hike Paúl → Janela (4–5 hours, moderate): Along the dramatic northeast coast, over rocks and through small bays. At the end awaits the rock gate of Janela — a natural stone arch in the sea, one of Santo Antão's landmarks.

Grogue — The Cape Verdean Sugarcane Schnapps

The best Grogue in Cape Verde is produced in the Paúl Valley. In traditional Trapiches (sugarcane presses, usually ox-driven), the juice is pressed from the sugarcane and distilled in simple distilleries. The result is a clear, strong rum of 40–50%, served fresh or as Ponche (mixed with honey, lemon, and herbs). A visit to a Trapiche is a must: you see the entire process and taste the fresh Grogue — often accompanied by the distiller's stories and a broad grin.

Arrival

Santo Antão has no airport — the only connection is the ferry from São Vicente (Mindelo → Porto Novo). The shipping company CV Interilhas operates several crossings daily. The journey takes 1 hour and costs about 800 CVE (approx. 7€) for locals and tourists alike. The sea in the Canal de São Vicente can be rough — those prone to seasickness should take precautions (take travel tablets, breathe fresh air on deck).

Transport on the Island

Santo Antão has a limited road network, but the main road from Porto Novo over the mountains to Ribeira Grande and further to Ponta do Sol is spectacular: hairpin bends at 1,000-meter cliffs, tunnels through rocks, and views that take your breath away.

• Aluguers (shared taxis): The main means of transport. Hiace minibuses and pickups run fixed routes between Porto Novo, Ribeira Grande, Paúl, and Ponta do Sol. Prices: 2–5€. They leave when full — bring patience.
• Taxis: For specific routes (e.g., to the starting point of a hike), you can charter a taxi. Negotiate the price beforehand: Porto Novo → Cova approx. 15–20€.
• Rental Cars: Possible, but only for experienced drivers. The roads are steep, winding, and partly unpaved. All-wheel drive is recommended, especially in the rainy season.
• On Foot: The best way to experience Santo Antão. The hiking trails connect the places, and the trail network is the island's historical transport network.

Accommodation

Santo Antão has no large hotels — accommodations are pensions, guesthouses, and small eco-lodges. This is part of the charm: you stay with families, eat at the communal table, and get to know the island from the inside.

• Ponta do Sol: Best selection of accommodations. Pensions from 25€/double room, charming guesthouses with sea views from 40€.
• Ribeira Grande: Functional accommodations, a good starting point for hikes.
• Paúl: Quiet eco-lodges and family pensions in the middle of nature. Ideal for hikers wanting to stay in the valley.
• Porto Novo: Only necessary as a transit station — the ferry docks here, but the north side is more attractive.

Food

On Santo Antão, you eat simple but fantastic: Grilled fish straight from the boat, Cachupa from the pot, fresh tropical fruits from the tree. In the pensions, meals are often served at the communal table — a three-course menu for 6–10€ is standard. In Ponta do Sol, there are a few small restaurants with sea views, where fresh tuna with manioc and vegetables is a feast.