Society & Everyday Life
Cuban Daily Life
The daily life of most Cubans revolves around one theme: resolver — "to solve," "to organize," "to procure." In a country with chronic supply shortages, the art of obtaining things is a basic life skill. Where are there eggs today? Who has soap? Where can you buy flour? The lines in front of the stores (colas) can last for hours.
The state average salary is equivalent to 20–40 € per month (4,000–8,000 CUP). No one can live on that — prices have skyrocketed since the currency reform. Cubans survive through a combination of:
- Remesas: Money transfers from relatives abroad (especially Miami)
- Black market: Bartering, informal businesses, selling homegrown vegetables
- Tourism: Casas Particulares, taxi driving, cigar sales, waiting tables — a waiter with tips often earns more than a surgeon
- Libreta: The state ration book that guarantees subsidized basic foodstuffs (rice, beans, sugar, oil) — enough for about 2 weeks per month
Despite the economic misery, the joy of life of the Cubans is astonishing: music, dance, humor, and neighborhood help are the counterbalance to scarcity. The hospitality towards strangers is genuine and heartfelt — not just a tourism strategy.
Understanding the Peso System
Cuba's currency system is the most confusing in the world — and a constant annoyance for tourists and Cubans alike.
The Current Situation (2025/2026)
Since the currency reform in January 2021, there is officially only one currency: the Cuban Peso (CUP). The old convertible Peso (CUC, also called "dollar") has been abolished. The official exchange rate is 1 USD = 120 CUP.
In practice, however, there is an informal exchange rate (mercado informal), which is significantly higher: 1 EUR = 250–350 CUP (as of early 2026, fluctuates greatly). This rate is used by almost all private providers — Casas Particulares, Paladares, taxi drivers. Those who exchange at the official rate (at the bank or the CADECA exchange office) effectively pay twice as much.
MLC (Moneda Libremente Convertible)
In state foreign currency stores (tiendas MLC), transactions are conducted in MLC — a virtual currency on special bank cards that is pegged to the USD. These stores sell imported goods (oil, hygiene products, electronics) that are otherwise unavailable. Tourists can buy MLC cards at CADECA locations.
Practical Tips
- Bring EUR in cash — this is the simplest and cheapest method
- Exchange a portion at the Casa Particular at the informal rate
- Small bills (5, 10, 20 EUR) are more practical than large ones
- For state facilities (hotels, museums, Viazul), payment is often directly in EUR/USD
- You need CUP cash for street stalls, local buses, and small shops
Achtung
The informal money exchange is technically illegal but practiced by everyone — including Casas Particulares and Paladares. Only exchange with trustworthy people (your Casa owner) and never on the street. Always count carefully!
Jineteros & Tourist Traps
Jineteros (literally: "riders," in a figurative sense: hustlers/intermediaries) are an unavoidable part of the Cuba experience. In Havana and Trinidad, you will definitely be approached — by people wanting to offer you cigars, restaurants, rum, accommodation, or "friendship."
Typical Schemes
- "My friend, where are you from?" — The classic opening conversation intended to lead to a restaurant or cigar sale. The Jinetero earns a commission
- Cigars: Allegedly "real Cohibas from the cousin in the factory" — 99% are fakes. Only buy in official shops!
- Restaurant referral: You are led to a specific Paladar. The food can be good or bad — the intermediary earns 20–30% of the bill amount. Therefore, prices in these places are often higher
- Women/Men: Jineterismo also has a sexual component. Young Cuban women or men who latch onto tourists are often looking for a ticket out of the country, gifts, or financial support
How to Deal with It?
Be friendly but firm. A simple "No, gracias" is usually enough. Take it with humor — most Jineteros are not malicious but are trying to get by in a difficult system. Rely on the recommendations of your Casa Particular — they have no interest in sending you to a bad restaurant.
Tipp
The simplest method against Jineteros: Speak to them in Spanish. Those who can speak a few sentences in Spanish are approached significantly less and perceived as more experienced travelers.
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