Velázquez, Goya, El Greco — the old masters

Spain has produced three of the greatest painters in European art history — and with the Museo del Prado in Madrid, one of the most important museums in the world that unites their works.

El Greco (1541–1614)

Originally Greek (Doménikos Theotokópoulos, from Crete), he became a painter of mystical, expressive religiosity in Toledo. His elongated figures, unreal light, and ecstatic compositions were far ahead of his time — the Expressionists of the 20th century revered him. His masterpiece "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz" hangs in the Church of Santo Tomé in Toledo.

Diego Velázquez (1599–1660)

Court painter to Philip IV and for many the greatest painter of all time. "Las Meninas" (1656) in the Prado is the most analyzed painting in art history — a picture within a picture that entangles viewer, painter, and model in a play of gazes. Velázquez's ability to depict atmosphere, light, and psychological depth influenced both Impressionists and Realists. Manet called him the "painter of painters."

Francisco de Goya (1746–1828)

Goya was initially a court painter, then became the sharpest social critic of his time. His "Black Paintings" (Pinturas Negras, created in his country house, now in the Prado) — including "Saturn Devouring His Son" — are among the most disturbing works in art history. The etchings "Los Caprichos" and "The Disasters of War" (about the War of Independence against Napoleon) are harrowing indictments against violence, superstition, and abuse of power.

The Prado — a must-visit

The Museo del Prado houses over 8,000 paintings, about 1,700 of which are on display. The Spanish collection (Velázquez, Goya, El Greco, Ribera, Zurbarán, Murillo) is the best in the world, complemented by Titian, Rubens, Bosch (his "Garden of Earthly Delights" is here), and Raphael. Plan at least 3 hours — better a whole day.