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Regionen · Kapitel 6

Valencia & Costa Blanca

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RegionenKapitel 6: Valencia & Costa Blanca
Regionen · Kapitel 6

Valencia & Costa Blanca

City of Arts and Paella. Valencia is Spain's third-largest city, yet for many travelers, it remains an overlooked spot between Barcelona and Andalusia. A mistake — because Valencia combines futuristic architecture, one of the most beautiful old towns in the Mediterranean, Europe's largest city park, and the birthplace of paella. Add to that the beaches of the Costa Blanca, the mild climate, and prices significantly lower than in Barcelona.

Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias

The City of Arts and Sciences is Valencia's landmark and one of the most spectacular architectural ensembles in Europe. Designed by the Valencian star architect Santiago Calatrava (and Félix Candela for the Oceanogràfic), the complex stretches over 2 km in the dried-up riverbed of the Turia — a futuristic total work of art made of white concrete and water, looking like something out of a science fiction movie.

The complex consists of five main buildings, which can be visited individually or with a combination ticket. Plan at least a half day, a whole day for everything.

Tipp

Combo tickets (Oceanogràfic + Hemisfèric + Museo de las Ciencias) cost €38.70 (adults) and save about €15 compared to individual tickets. Buying online is cheaper and avoids queues. The buildings are spectacularly lit in the evenings — an evening walk is worthwhile even without entry.

L'Oceanogràfic★★★

Carrer d'Eduardo Primo Yúfera, 1B, 46013 València
Täglich 10–18 Uhr (Winter) / 10–21 Uhr (Sommer)
37,40€ (Erwachsene), 28€ (Kinder 4–12)

★★★ L'Oceanogràfic

The largest aquarium in Europe (110,000 m², 42 million liters of water) is the heart of the complex and alone worth a visit to Valencia. In buildings shaped like giant water lily leaves (Félix Candela), over 45,000 animals from 500 species live in replicas of the world's major ecosystems.

Highlights: the underwater tunnel through the shark tank (70 m long), the dolphinarium (the shows are controversial, but the facility itself is impressive), the beluga whales, the penguin colony, and the Red Sea aquarium with living corals. In the Restaurant Submarino, you dine surrounded by 10,000 fish — kitschy, but unforgettable (menu from 35€, reservation required!).

Admission: 37.40€ (adults), 28€ (children 4–12), free under 4. Daily 10 AM–6 PM (winter) / 10 AM–9 PM (summer). Plan at least 3 hours.

Hemisfèric & Museo de las Ciencias

★★ L'Hemisfèric

The most striking building of the complex — a giant eye reflecting in the water basin. Inside: an IMAX cinema, planetarium, and laserium with a 900 m² concave screen. The documentaries (mostly nature and space) are impressive, especially for families.

8.80€. Screenings every 45–60 minutes.

★★ Museo de las Ciencias Príncipe Felipe

An interactive science museum in a building shaped like a whale's skeleton (250 m long). Three floors with hands-on exhibitions on physics, biology, technology, and space. Particularly good for children and teenagers — but adults can easily spend 2 hours here.

8.80€ (adults), 6.80€ (children). Daily 10 AM–7 PM (until 9 PM in summer).

★ Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía

Valencia's opera and concert hall — a 75 m high helmet-shaped building that looks like an alien spaceship. Inside, four halls for opera, concerts, and ballet. Ticket prices: from 25€ for ballet performances, from 40€ for operas. Tours of the building: 12€.

Umbracle

An open sculpture garden with 55 palm arches, contemporary sculptures, and panoramic views over the entire complex. Free access. At night, the Umbracle transforms into an open-air nightclub (Mya Club) in summer.

Old Town & Mercado Central

Valencia's Old Town (Ciutat Vella) is a fascinating labyrinth of Gothic palaces, Baroque churches, narrow alleys, and lively squares. It is one of the largest historic city centers in Europe and is surprisingly untouched by mass tourism — unlike the old towns of Barcelona or Seville, here you often have entire alleys to yourself.

The main districts: El Carmen (the trendy district with street art, boutiques, and bars), La Seu (around the cathedral), and El Mercat (around the central market). Everything is within walking distance.

Mercado Central★★★

Plaça de la Ciutat de Bruges, s/n, 46001 València
Mo–Sa 7:30–15 Uhr
Eintritt frei

★★★ Mercado Central

One of Europe's largest and most beautiful food markets. The Art Nouveau hall (1928) made of iron, glass, and colorful ceramic tiles houses over 1,200 stalls on 8,000 m². Here beats the culinary heart of Valencia: pyramid-shaped stacks of tomatoes, shiny mackerels on ice, mountains of olives, freshly squeezed orange juice (1.50€), Jamón Ibérico, 50 types of cheese.

At the Central Bar (in the market, concept by star chef Ricard Camarena), you can get excellent tapas from market products — oysters (3€/piece), sardines, croquetas. Ideal for a late breakfast or a tapas lunch.

Mon–Sat 7:30 AM–3 PM. Closed on Sundays. Most lively on Saturdays around 11 AM.

Tipp

Mercado Central is at its best from 10 AM when the stalls are fully stocked. Around 2 PM, the vendors start packing up. Be sure to try: freshly squeezed orange juice (1.50€), Horchata de Chufa (2€, Valencia's specialty), and a Ración Jamón Ibérico (from 8€).

Cathedral, Lonja & Torres de Serranos

★★ Cathedral of Valencia & Holy Grail

Valencia's Cathedral (13th–15th centuries) combines Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. The special feature: In the Capilla del Santo Cáliz, an agate chalice from the 1st century is kept, recognized by the Catholic Church as the real Holy Grail (Pope Benedict XVI drank from it during a mass in 2006). Whether you believe it or not — the chalice is fascinating.

Climb the Miguelete (bell tower, 51 m): 207 steps, no ramps, but the best view over Valencia.

Cathedral: 9€ (including audio guide and Miguelete). Mon–Sat 10 AM–6:30 PM, Sun 2 PM–6:30 PM.

★★★ La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange)

Valencia's UNESCO World Heritage Site (1996) and one of the finest examples of civil Gothic architecture in Europe. The Sala de Contratación (Contract Hall) with its eight spiral columns that unfold 17 m high like palm trees is breathtaking. Here, silk was traded in the 15th century when Valencia was one of the richest cities in the Mediterranean.

Free (Sundays and holidays), otherwise 2€. Tue–Sat 10 AM–7 PM, Sun 10 AM–2 PM. Closed on Mondays.

★★ Torres de Serranos

One of the two preserved city gates of the medieval city wall (1398). The most powerful Gothic gate towers in Europe — from above, a magnificent view over the old town and Turia Park. Every year on the last Wednesday in February, the Fallas Festival (Valencia's biggest festival) is opened here.

2€, free on Sundays. Tue–Sat 10 AM–7 PM, Sun 10 AM–2 PM.

El Carmen: The Trendy District

★★ Barrio del Carmen

Valencia's most vibrant district stretches between the Torres de Serranos and the Torres de Quart. During the day, you can wander through narrow streets with street art (Valencia is one of the best street art cities in Europe), independent boutiques, and small galleries. The IVAM (Institut Valencià d'Art Modern, 6€) features changing exhibitions of contemporary art.

In the evening, El Carmen transforms into the nightlife and bar district. The Plaza del Tossal and Calle Caballeros are the centers of nightlife. Cocktail bars, craft beer pubs, and flamenco bars alternate. On weekends, the streets are lively until 3 AM.

Some bars and restaurants in Carmen:

  • Café de las Horas — Baroque decor, famous for Agua de Valencia (cocktail of Cava, orange juice, and vodka, from 8€)
  • La Pilareta — Since 1917, the best bar for Clóchinas (small Valencian mussels, 4€/plate) and vermouth
  • Bodega Casa Montaña — Since 1836, one of Spain's oldest bodegas, excellent tapas and wines

Tipp

Agua de Valencia — the city's signature drink — is deceptively sweet and surprisingly strong (Cava + orange juice + vodka + gin). A maximum of two glasses is recommended. Order it at "Café de las Horas" for the full experience.

Turia Gardens (Jardí del Túria)★★

Where the Turia River once flowed through Valencia, today stretches Europe's largest city park: 9 km long, 110 hectares of greenery, from the Bioparc in the west to the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias in the east. After the devastating flood of 1957 that ravaged Valencia, the river was diverted and the riverbed transformed into a park — visionary urban planning that shapes Valencia to this day.

The park is the living room of the Valencianos: joggers, cyclists, families, picnic groups, football players, inline skaters — all on paths under orange trees, palms, and over historic bridges that now span a park instead of a river.

Highlights in Turia Park

★★ Gulliver Playground

A giant reclining Gulliver (70 m long), where children (and adults) can climb on slides, ramps, and stairs — as if they were the Lilliputians from Jonathan Swift's novel. Unique, free, and incredibly popular with children. Very crowded on weekend afternoons.

Free. Daily 10 AM–8 PM (summer until 9:30 PM). In the park section between Puente del Ángel Custodio and Puente del Reino.

★★ Bioparc Valencia

At the western end of Turia Park lies one of Europe's best zoos. The "zoo immersion" concept avoids visible barriers — the animals live in naturalistic African landscapes (savannah, equatorial forest, Madagascar, wetlands), and visitors feel as if they are in the midst of it. Gorillas, elephants, leopards, lemurs, and hippos in impressive enclosures.

26.60€ (adults), 20€ (children 4–12). Daily 10 AM–6 PM (winter) / 10 AM–9 PM (summer). Plan at least 3 hours.

Cycling & Walking

Crossing the entire park by bike takes about 45 minutes. Valenbisi (Valencia's bike rental system) has stations along the route: Weekly pass 13.30€, first 30 minutes free. Alternatively: E-scooters available everywhere (Lime, Bolt), about 0.25€/min.

Tipp

The Turia Park is perfect for a sunset walk or a jogging round. On weekends, Valencians picnic under the orange trees — join them! Bring a blanket and baguette from Mercado Central.

Albufera & the Origin of Paella

Only 10 km south of Valencia lies the Parc Natural de l'Albufera — a 21,000-hectare lagoon surrounded by rice fields and pine forests. This is the birthplace of paella: Here, in the rice fields on the lagoon's shore, farmers and fishermen invented the dish that defines Spain in the 18th century.

The Albufera is also an important bird sanctuary with over 300 species — flamingos, herons, stilts, sea eagles. A sunset boat ride over the tranquil lagoon is one of the most magical moments one can experience in the Valencia region.

Visit Albufera

El Palmar, 46012 València

★★★ Sunset Boat Ride

In El Palmar, the small village on the lagoon's shore, traditional Barqueta boats depart for half-hour rides across the Albufera. At sunset, when the entire lagoon is bathed in gold and orange and hundreds of birds fly in to roost, it is simply magical.

Boat rides: 5€/person (about 30 minutes). Departure from El Palmar, several providers at the Embarcadero. No reservation needed.

★★★ Paella in El Palmar

El Palmar is the place to eat paella — it was invented here, and it is best prepared here. The restaurants on the village outskirts cook paella over an open wood fire in huge pans. The real Paella Valenciana contains: rice (Bomba rice from the surrounding fields), chicken, rabbit, green beans (Bajoqueta and Garrofón), tomato, saffron, rosemary, and olive oil. No seafood — that's Paella de Marisco, a different dish.

Restaurant recommendations:

  • Restaurante Bon Aire — An institution since 1960, right on the canal. Paella for 2 from 25€. Reservation needed on weekends.
  • Casa Salvador — More upscale, with its own boat for rides. Paella for 2 from 28€.
  • Restaurante Mateu — Family-run, authentic, slightly cheaper. Paella for 2 from 22€.

Important: Paella is traditionally only eaten at lunchtime (1–3 PM), never in the evening. Minimum order always for 2 people. Cooking time about 20 minutes.

Tipp

Perfect Half-Day: Around 12 PM, take bus 25 from Valencia center to El Palmar (30 min, 1.50€). Paella lunch at 1:30 PM. Then walk through the rice fields. At 6 PM, take a sunset boat ride. Return bus at 7:30 PM.

Alicante

Alicante (340,000 inhabitants) is the second city of the Valencia region and the gateway to the Costa Blanca. It is often dismissed as merely an airport transfer point — a mistake, as Alicante has more to offer than most coastal cities: an impressive fortress, the marble-paved Explanada de España, a compact old town with good tapas bars, and one of the best city beaches in Spain.

Alicante is also significantly cheaper than Valencia or Barcelona — a Caña beer costs €1.50, tapas portions €3–6, and a good lunch menu (Menú del Día) is available from €10.

Sights

★★★ Castillo de Santa Bárbara

The most powerful castle on the Spanish Mediterranean coast towers 166 m above the sea on the Monte Benacantil rock. Origin: 9th century (Moorish), expanded in the 16th century. Three levels with exhibitions, casemates, and the best panoramic view of the entire Costa Blanca — on clear days, you can see as far as the island of Tabarca.

You can reach it via an elevator (2.70€, through a tunnel blasted into the rock, entrance at Playa del Postiguet) or on foot (about 30 minutes, steep).

Castle: Free entry. Elevator: 2.70€. Daily 10 AM–10 PM (summer), 10 AM–8 PM (winter).

★★ Explanada de España

Alicante's famous promenade by the harbor: 500 m long, paved with 6.6 million tricolored marble tiles in a wave pattern, lined with palm trees. In the evenings, everyone promenades here — ice cream vendors, street musicians, families. By the Explanada, the harbor terraces offer views of yachts and the Mediterranean.

★★ Barrio de Santa Cruz

The old town below the castle: white houses, colorful facades, steep stairs, small plazas with tapas bars. Less touristy than the old towns of Seville or Granada, but more authentic. The Plaza del Puente and the alleys around the Iglesia de Santa María (14th century, the oldest church in the city) are the most beautiful.

★ MARQ (Archaeological Museum)

One of Spain's best archaeological museums (European Museum of the Year Award 2004). Interactive exhibitions on Alicante's history from the Stone Age to the present, with outstanding Iberian-Roman finds.

3€. Tue–Sat 10 AM–7 PM, Sun 10 AM–2 PM.

★ Playa del Postiguet

Alicante's city beach — 700 m of fine sand directly below the Santa Bárbara castle. Clean water, good infrastructure (showers, toilets, lifeguards), chiringuitos. A 5-minute walk from the city center.

Costa Blanca: The Best Beaches

The Costa Blanca (White Coast) stretches over 200 km from Dénia in the north to Pilar de la Horadada in the south. It owes its name to the bright cliffs and fine white sand. With over 300 sunny days a year and water temperatures ranging from 17°C (winter) to 28°C (August), it is one of Europe's most popular beach destinations — and offers far more than the hotel towers of Benidorm.

Places & Beaches

★★★ Jávea (Xàbia)

The most beautiful coastal town of the Costa Blanca. Jávea has three faces: the medieval old town on the hill (Casco Histórico), the port (El Puerto) with fish restaurants, and the Arenal beach with its turquoise water and promenade. The Cala Granadella (2 km south) has been repeatedly voted Spain's most beautiful beach: a small rocky cove with crystal-clear water, ideal for snorkeling.

Granadella in summer only with reservation (free, via the Ayuntamiento de Jávea website). Very limited parking.

★★ Calpe (Calp)

Dominated by the Peñón de Ifach, a 332 m high limestone rock that rises from the sea like a mini-Gibraltar. The hike to the summit (about 1 hour, via ferrata sections, permit required) is rewarded with a spectacular view. At the base: the Playa de la Fossa with the rock as a backdrop.

★★ Altea

The St. Tropez of the Costa Blanca: a pretty artist village with a blue and white domed church on the hill, galleries, crafts, and a beach promenade. Much quieter and more tasteful than nearby Benidorm. Perfect for an evening with sunset and seafood.

★★ Isla Tabarca

Spain's smallest inhabited island, located 22 km off Alicante. Crystal-clear water (marine reserve), a tiny fortified village from the 18th century, excellent fish restaurants. The Caldero Tabarquino (rice with fish, 14€/person) is a must. Ferry from Alicante (1 hour) or Santa Pola (25 minutes), round trip about 20€.

★ Benidorm

Yes, Benidorm. The skyscraper skyline deters many, but the city has its place: The Levante and Poniente beaches are actually excellent (wide, fine sand, clean water), the infrastructure perfect, and the old town (Casco Antiguo) on the promontory with the Mirador del Castillo has surprisingly much charm. And: Benidorm has the highest density of restaurants per capita in Spain.

The Most Beautiful Coves (Calas)

  • Cala Granadella (Jávea) — The queen: turquoise, surrounded by pines, fantastic for snorkeling
  • Cala del Moraig (Benitatxell) — Dramatic cliffs, cave with sea access
  • Cala Finestrat (near Benidorm) — Small, sheltered, quieter than the main beaches
  • Cala Barraca (Jávea) — Pebble beach, Caribbean water, less crowded than Granadella
  • Les Rotes (Dénia) — Rocky coves for snorkeling with views of Montgó

Tipp

The Costa Blanca beaches are packed in August — June and September are ideal (water 24–26°C, fewer tourists). Many of the most beautiful calas have limited parking; arrive early (before 10 AM) or leave the car in town and walk.

Valencian Cuisine: The Real Paella & More

Valencia is the culinary heart of the Spanish Mediterranean coast. The region produces 60% of Spain's rice (D.O. Arroz de Valencia), the country's best oranges, almonds, artichokes, and seafood. Here, rice is understood like nowhere else — and paella is just the tip of the iceberg.

Paella: The Ultimate Guide€€

★★★ The Real Paella Valenciana

Forget everything you think you know about paella. The real Paella Valenciana — the original dish — contains:

  • Bomba rice (from Albufera or Calasparra)
  • Chicken (free-range)
  • Rabbit
  • Bajoqueta (flat green beans)
  • Garrofón (large white beans)
  • Tomato, grated
  • Saffron and rosemary
  • Olive oil
  • Water (no broth!)

What NOT to include: seafood, chorizo, peas, peppers, onions. These are ingredients of other rice dishes, but not of Paella Valenciana. Valencians take this very seriously.

The Socarrat — the crispy, caramelized rice crust at the bottom of the pan — is the sign of a perfectly cooked paella. Whoever gets the Socarrat has won.

★★★ Other Rice Dishes

Besides Paella Valenciana, there are dozens of rice variations:

  • Arroz a Banda — Rice cooked in fish broth, fish served separately. With alioli.
  • Arroz del Senyoret — "Rice for the fine gentleman": seafood rice, with everything already peeled
  • Arroz Negro — Black rice, colored with squid ink. Spectacular in appearance and taste.
  • Arroz al Horno — Oven-baked rice with chickpeas, blood sausage, and potatoes. Home cooking.
  • Fideuà — Like paella, but with short noodles instead of rice. Specialty from Gandía.

Where to Eat Paella

In Valencia City:

  • La Pepica — On the beach, since 1898, Hemingway's favorite spot. Touristy, but the paella is excellent. Paella for 2: from 28€.
  • Casa Roberto — Local favorite, excellent and fair. Paella for 2: from 22€.
  • Restaurante Levante — In Benimaclet (student district), authentic and affordable. Paella for 2: from 18€.

In El Palmar (Albufera): Bon Aire, Casa Salvador, Mateu — see Albufera section.

Tipp

Paella is ALWAYS eaten at lunchtime in Valencia (1–3:30 PM), never in the evening. A restaurant that offers paella in the evening is for tourists. Minimum order: 2 people (paella is not cooked for one person). Cooking time: 20–25 minutes — if it comes immediately, it was pre-cooked (bad sign).

Other Specialties

★★ Horchata de Chufa & Fartons

Valencia's most unique drink: Horchata (tiger nut milk) is a refreshing, sweet drink made from chufas (tiger nuts), which are only grown here in the Huerta de Valencia. Accompanied by Fartons — elongated, glazed yeast pastries for dipping. Best enjoyed in one of the traditional horchaterías:

  • Horchatería Daniel — At Mercado de Colón, the most famous in the city. Horchata: 3.50€.
  • Horchatería Santa Catalina — Since 1820, the oldest. Horchata + Fartons: 5€.
  • Horchatería El Siglo — At Plaza Santa Catalina, charming Art Deco interior.

★★ Esgarraet

Typical Valencian appetizer: roasted red peppers with bacalao (salt cod), garlic, and olive oil. Simple and delicious. Available in almost every traditional bar.

★★ All i Pebre

Eel in garlic-pepper sauce — the traditional fisherman's dish of the Albufera. It may sound unusual, but it tastes fantastic. Best tried in El Palmar.

★ Buñuelos de Calabaza

Pumpkin fritters, traditionally eaten during the Fallas (March) — but available year-round in good bakeries. Fried, dusted with sugar, and served with hot chocolate. Valencian comfort food.

★ Clóchinas

Small Valencian mussels (June–September), steamed with lemon. Smaller and more tender than regular mussels. An institution at "La Pilareta" (since 1917) for 4€ per plate.

Menú del Día

Valencia's best culinary secret: The daily menu (Menú del Día) is available at lunchtime in almost every restaurant for 10–15€: appetizer, main course, dessert, bread, drink, and often coffee included. The quality is often surprisingly high — many locals eat out for lunch instead of at home.

Tipp

Horchata must be fresh — the industrial version from the bottle is a different drink. In a real horchatería, it is made on-site and served chilled. Ask for "horchata artesanal". Season: May–October, when the chufas are fresh.

Stadtrundgang

Valencia: Altstadt & Turia-Park

3–4 hours ca. 5 km

From the lively market through the Gothic old town to the futuristic architecture park — Valencia in all its contrasts.

1

Mercado Central

Start at the most beautiful market in Europe. Try freshly squeezed orange juice (€1.50) and horchata. Stroll through the Art Nouveau hall. 30–45 min.

40 min.
2

La Lonja de la Seda

Directly opposite the market: the UNESCO World Heritage site. Admire the spiral columns of the contract hall. 15 min.

15 min.
3

Cathedral & Holy Grail

5 minutes on foot. Visit the cathedral with the Holy Grail, then climb the Miguelete (207 steps) for the panoramic view. 40 min.

40 min.
4

Plaza de la Virgen

The most beautiful square in Valencia between the cathedral and basilica. Short break in the shade with a view of the Turia fountain.

10 min.
5

Torres de Serranos

Through the alleys to the mighty city gate. Climb up for the view over the old town and Turia Park. 20 min.

20 min.
6

Turia Park & Gulliver

Down into the park and walk eastwards. Stop at the Gulliver playground (with children), otherwise continue through orange groves and under historic bridges.

30 min.
7

Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (End)

At the eastern end of Turia Park, the view opens up to Calatrava's futuristic buildings. Walk through the complex, optionally visit the Oceanogràfic. Evening lighting from sunset.

30 min.

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