Central Taiwan
Sun Moon Lake
Taiwan's Most Beautiful Lake
The Sun Moon Lake (日月潭, Rìyuè Tán) at an altitude of 748 m is Taiwan's largest natural lake and one of the island's most magical places. The name comes from its shape: the eastern half is round like the sun, the western is crescent-shaped like the moon — separated by the tiny Lalu Island, sacred to the indigenous Thao. Surrounded by wooded hills, temples, and tea plantations, the lake has an almost mystical tranquility, especially in the early morning when mist drifts over the mirror-like water.
The lake has been a sacred place of the Thao for centuries, one of Taiwan's smallest indigenous groups (only about 800 people). You can experience their culture, dances, and cuisine in Ita Thao village on the southeast shore.
Activities
- Cycling: The 33 km bike path around the lake is one of the most beautiful bike paths in the world (CNN Top 10). E-bikes and bicycles are available for rent everywhere (200–500 TWD/day). The section Shuishe → Xiangshan is the most scenic — through tunnels, over bridges, always with a view of the lake.
- Wenwu Temple (文武廟): Magnificent temple on the north shore, dedicated to Confucius (literature) and Guan Gong (war). Two giant lion statues guard the entrance, and the terrace offers a fantastic view over the entire lake. Free.
- Ci En Pagoda (慈恩塔): 46 m high pagoda on a hill, built by Chiang Kai-shek in memory of his mother. The best viewpoint over the lake — 15 minutes ascent through the forest. Free.
- Boat Trip: Tour with stops at the three main piers (Shuishe, Xuanguang, Ita Thao). 300 TWD (9€), hop on and off all day. The ride over the quiet lake with the green mountains all around is pure relaxation.
- Ita Thao Village (伊達邵): Indigenous Thao village on the southeast shore with a lively night market: wild boar sausages, mochi, tea eggs, and Shaoxing sausage. Traditional Thao dance performances on weekends.
Getting There
HSR to Taichung, then Bus 6670 to the lake (1.5h, 195 TWD / 6€). Or directly by long-distance bus from Taipei (4h, about 400 TWD / 12€). Overnight stay at the lake recommended — the atmosphere is most beautiful in the morning.
Tipp
Stay by the lake (hotels from 1,500 TWD / 44€) and get up early: The sunrise over the mist-covered lake is magical and the bike paths are empty then. Rent an e-bike and ride counterclockwise — you'll have the most beautiful sections in the morning when the light is perfect.
Alishan — Tea, Clouds & Ancient Cypresses
Taiwan's Most Famous Mountain Region
The Alishan National Scenic Area (阿里山) at an altitude of 2,000–2,500 m is a mountain region that packs four experiences into one: sunrises over the sea of clouds, ancient cypresses, the historic forest railway, and the best tea in Taiwan. Alishan is the epitome of Taiwanese natural romance — a place deeply rooted in the island's poetry, songs, and folk soul.
Alishan Forest Railway — The Legendary Mountain Railway
The Alishan Forest Railway is a historic narrow-gauge railway built by the Japanese in 1912 for timber transport. It winds from Chiayi (30 m) up to 2,216 m — passing tea plantations, bamboo forests, and cypress groves. The 71 km long route overcomes more than 2,000 meters in altitude on tracks so narrow that the train sometimes seems barely wider than a child's toy. The ride alone, through tunnels and over bridges, with views into green abysses, is an experience like no other.
Sunrise Over the Sea of Clouds
The sunrise from the Zhushan viewing platform is THE iconic natural experience of Taiwan. At 4–5 am, a special train runs from Alishan Station to the viewpoint. When the first rays of the sun make the surrounding mountain peaks rise like islands from the sea of clouds and the sky explodes in orange, pink, and gold, the crowd falls silent in awe. On clear days, Yushan (3,952 m) can be seen in the distance.
Sacred Tree Trail & Ancient Cypresses
The Sacred Tree Trail (神木步道) leads through a mystical misty forest with 2,000-year-old red cypresses. The trees are so massive that you have to tilt your head back to see their crowns. The trail is 2 km long, flat, and easy to walk — perfect for a morning stroll after sunrise.
Alishan High Mountain Oolong Tea
The slopes around Alishan produce world-class Oolong tea. At an altitude of 1,000–1,500 m, the tea bushes grow more slowly, as the cool air and frequent fog protect the leaves — the result is a complex, floral-sweet aroma that delights tea connoisseurs. Tea farms offer tastings and tours: You learn how High Mountain Oolong is processed and taste tea that sells for 50–200€ per 100g. The best harvest time is in spring (April/May).
Tipp
Stay in the Alishan Forest Area (hotels and guesthouses from 1,500 TWD / 44€) and take the sunrise train. Get a ticket in advance — they sell out quickly during peak season. After sunrise: hike on the Sacred Tree Trail (2 km, flat) and have breakfast in the mountain village. In the afternoon: tea tasting at a plantation on the way down.
Taichung — Taiwan's Creative Center
The Underrated Metropolis
Taichung (台中) with 2.8 million inhabitants is Taiwan's second-largest city — and perhaps the most underrated. While everyone flocks to Taipei, Taichung has experienced a creative revolution in recent years: former sake breweries as cultural centers, a world-famous opera house, bubble tea history, and the island's craziest artist village.
Highlights
- Rainbow Village (彩虹眷村): Former soldier Huang Yung-Fu (now over 100 years old) began painting his military settlement, slated for demolition, in bright colors in 2008 — every wall, every floor, every object. The government stopped the demolition, and the Rainbow Village became an Instagram phenomenon. Free, Bus 56 or 74.
- National Taichung Theater (國家歌劇院): Designed by Japanese star architect Toyo Ito — a futuristic building without right angles, resembling a coral reef. Even without a performance, it's worth a visit: the interior architecture is equally impressive. Free access.
- Miyahara (宮原眼科): Not an ophthalmology practice, but a former Japanese colonial hospital converted into Taiwan's most spectacular ice cream parlor and souvenir shop. The interior design is reminiscent of Harry Potter's Diagon Alley: floor-to-ceiling shelves full of tea tins and chocolates. The ice cream (bubble tea flavor!) is excellent.
- Fengjia Night Market (逢甲夜市): Taiwan's largest night market — over 300 stalls on several streets around Feng Chia University. Culinary trends are born here: giant chicken cutlets, cheese potatoes, innovative bubble tea variations.
- Chun Shui Tang (春水堂): This tea house in Taichung is where Bubble Tea was invented in 1983. The original branch still exists — drinking the "Original Pear Mountain Tea with Tapioca" here is a pilgrimage for bubble tea fans.
Getting There
HSR from Taipei: 47 min., 700 TWD (20€). The HSR station is outside — Bus 160 or Metro Green Line to the center (30 min.).
Yushan — Jade Mountain
The Highest Peak in Northeast Asia
The Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain) is at 3,952 m the highest mountain in Taiwan and the highest peak in Northeast Asia — higher than Fuji (3,776 m)! Climbing it is technically not difficult (no climbing, no ropes), but logistically challenging: The Taiwanese government limits the number of hikers to only 116 per day, and permits are awarded by lottery during peak season.
The Ascent
- Route: Tataka Trailhead (2,610 m) → Paiyun Lodge (3,402 m, overnight stay) → Summit (3,952 m) at sunrise → Descent
- Duration: 2 days / 1 night. Day 1: 8.5 km to Paiyun Lodge (5–6h ascent). Day 2: 2.4 km to the summit (2–3h night ascent, start at 2–3 am for sunrise), then descent to the trailhead (6–7h).
- Permit: Mandatory! Apply online through the Yushan National Park — at least 1 month in advance. In the main season (October–December) lottery procedure, chances: about 30–50%.
- Cost: Permit free, Paiyun Lodge 480 TWD (14€) per night including dinner and breakfast. Sleeping bags are provided.
- Fitness: Good basic fitness required. Altitude sickness possible from 3,000 m — go slowly, drink plenty.
Is it worth it?
Absolutely. The sunrise from the Yushan summit — when the sun rises above the sea of clouds and you look down on the entire island of Taiwan, seeing the east coast and the west coast simultaneously — is one of the most unforgettable moments you can experience in Asia. You stand on the roof of Northeast Asia and feel as if you could see half the world.
Achtung
Climbing Yushan requires a permit, which must be applied for online at least 4–5 weeks in advance (ysnp.cpami.gov.tw). During peak season (Oct–Dec), permits are awarded by lottery — chances increase during the week. Those traveling spontaneously have little chance. Plan early!
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