East Coast & Taroko

Taiwan's Most Spectacular Natural Wonder

The Taroko Gorge (太魯閣峽谷) is a 19 km long marble gorge that the Liwu River has carved into the rock over millions of years. The walls rise up to 1,000 meters vertically and display layers of white and gray marble, granite, and green schist — geological beauty that is hidden underground elsewhere but is exposed here. The gorge is Taiwan's most visited natural wonder and one of the most impressive canyons in the world.

The Taroko National Park covers 92,000 hectares — from subtropical coastal forests at sea level to alpine peaks over 3,000 meters. The Central Cross-Island Highway (中橫公路) runs directly through the gorge and is itself a masterpiece of engineering: In the 1950s, veterans carved it into the marble with the simplest means, and 212 workers died in the project — the Eternal Spring Shrine is dedicated to them.

The Best Hiking Trails

• Shakadang Trail (砂卡礑步道): 4.4 km along the turquoise Shakadang River. Flat, easy, breathtakingly beautiful — the turquoise water against the white marble is a top-class photo motif. Perfect for families and beginners. Duration: 2–3h round trip. Start: right at the gorge entrance.
• Swallow Grotto Trail (燕子口步道): 500 m walkway through the narrowest part of the gorge — the road is literally carved into the marble, the Liwu River roars 200 meters below you, and swallows nest in the thousands of small rock holes above you. Helmets are provided. The immediate feeling of standing between the marble walls is overwhelming.
• Eternal Spring Shrine (長春祠): A Taoist shrine, dramatically built into a rock wall, with a waterfall cascading beside it. Dedicated to the 212 workers who died during the construction of the road through the gorge. The short path to the shrine offers one of the most iconic views of the gorge.
• Zhuilu Old Trail (錐麓古道): THE trail for adventurers — a narrow path carved into the vertical rock wall, with a 500 m drop below you and only a thin wire rope as a railing. The trail was once a trade route of the Truku indigenous people and was expanded by the Japanese. Permit required (apply online, max. 96 people/day). Duration: 6–7h for 10.3 km. Not for the faint-hearted — but the adrenaline and views are unparalleled.

Practical Information

• Entry: National park free (individual trails may require permits)
• Getting There: Train to Hualien (Taipei → Hualien: 2–3h, from 440 TWD), then bus 1133A or taxi to the park (30 min.)
• Accommodation: Stay in Hualien (wide selection, from 800 TWD/night) or at the Silks Place Taroko Lodge directly in the gorge (upscale hotel, from 150€, spectacular location)
• Duration: 1 day is enough for the main attractions (Shakadang, Swallow Grotto, Eternal Spring). For the Zhuilu Trail, you'll need a second day.

Taiwan's Wild East Begins Here

Hualien (花蓮) is the largest city on the east coast, the gateway to the Taroko Gorge, and the perfect starting point for exploring Taiwan's wild east. The city itself has just under 100,000 inhabitants and exudes a calmness that is hard to find in bustling Taipei. Hualien is nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the steeply rising mountains of the central range — the landscape alone is breathtaking.

Highlights in Hualien

• Dongdamen Night Market (東大門夜市): Hualien's best night market — smaller and more authentic than the Taipei markets, with a special feature: indigenous dishes of the Amis and Truku. Wild boar sausages, bamboo rice, grilled flying fish, and millet wine. A culinary experience off the beaten Taiwanese cuisine path.
• Qixingtan Beach (七星潭): Not a sandy beach, but a pebble beach north of the city with turquoise water and the dramatic panorama of the central mountain range in the background. Ideal for sunrise — when the first rays bathe the mountain range in golden light, the sight is magical. Swimming is dangerous due to strong currents, but the atmosphere is unbeatable.
• Pine Garden (松園別館): Former Japanese military building (1944) on a hill, surrounded by ancient pines. Today, art exhibitions, a café with sea views, and a place of silence with a complex history — Japanese officers planned kamikaze missions in the Pacific War here.
• Whale Watching: From April to September, boats depart from Hualien for whale watching — dolphins, sperm whales, and occasionally humpback whales. Success rate: over 90%. From 800 TWD (24€) per person.

Getting There

Train from Taipei: Taroko Express 2h (440 TWD / 13€, reserve!), regular train 3–4h (approx. 250 TWD). Alternatively: Bus from Taipei (3.5h). There is no HSR on the east coast — that's part of the charm.

One of Asia's Most Spectacular Roads

The east coast of Taiwan is the exact opposite of the densely populated, industrialized west coast: Dramatic cliffs plunging steeply into the sea, lonely beaches, indigenous villages, and a vastness reminiscent of the rugged beauty of Ireland or New Zealand. The Highway 11 from Hualien to Taitung (170 km) is one of the most beautiful coastal roads in the world: Switchbacks on steep cliffs, with the Pacific hundreds of meters below you, and bays where the water glows in impossible shades of blue.

The east coast is also the heartland of Taiwan's indigenous population. The Amis, the largest indigenous group (about 210,000 people), live here in villages along the coast and preserve their culture: traditional dances, harvest festivals, and a cuisine that combines wild herbs, seafood, and game.

Highlights Along the East Coast

• Shitiping (石梯坪): Surreal limestone formations by the sea — carved into bizarre, moon-like shapes by waves and wind over thousands of years. A boardwalk leads through the formation. Camping by the sea possible (300 TWD/night).
• Sanxiantai (三仙台): The famous arch bridge with eight curved arches to a small volcanic island — one of Taiwan's most iconic photo motifs. Come at sunrise when the bridge glows in golden light and no buses are there yet.
• Dulan (都蘭): Relaxed surfer town with a backpacker atmosphere, craft beer (Dulan Sugar Factory Brewery), driftwood art, and one of Taiwan's best surf beaches. Here, Taiwanese hipsters, Western surfers, and indigenous Amis meet. Best surf season: October–March.
• Taitung (台東): The cozy capital of the east coast. Taitung Forest Park (15 km bike path through coastal forest), Zhiben Hot Springs (知本溫泉, less touristy than Beitou, hot spring water in the jungle), and the best rice in Taiwan (Chishang rice is sold in bento boxes at the station and is a national cultural asset).

Transport

The east coast is best explored by scooter (rent from Hualien or Taitung, 400–600 TWD/day) or train. The TRA railway line runs parallel to the coast and offers breathtaking views — the Hualien → Taitung section is one of Taiwan's most beautiful train rides (2–3h, from 300 TWD / 9€). Long-distance buses run less frequently but cover the main places.

Taiwan's Tropical Islands

Off the east coast lie two small islands that are among Taiwan's best-kept secrets: Green Island (綠島, Lüdao) and Orchid Island (蘭嶼, Lanyu). Those who make it here are rewarded with an island experience that feels like a parallel universe to the rest of Taiwan.

Green Island (綠島)

A diver's paradise, just 50 minutes by ferry from Taitung. The coral reefs are among Taiwan's best-preserved, with visibility up to 40 meters and an underwater world full of tropical fish, sea turtles, and manta rays. The special feature: Zhaori Hot Spring — one of only three saltwater hot springs by the sea in the world (besides Sicily and Japan). Bathe at night while the stars shine over the Pacific. The entire island can be circumnavigated by scooter in 40 minutes. Accommodations: simple guesthouses from 800 TWD (24€).

The dark side: Green Island was once Taiwan's most notorious political prison island — the Green Island Human Rights Memorial commemorates the thousands of political prisoners of the White Terror era (1949–1987). A moving place.

Orchid Island (蘭嶼)

The most remote and original island of Taiwan — home to the Tao (Yami), an indigenous group that has preserved the Austronesian culture and its traditions in their purest form. The Tao live in semi-underground stone houses, build hand-carved canoes (Tatala), and celebrate the Flying Fish Festival (March–June), during which the fishing boats are blessed. The island is volcanic, the coast wild, the coral reefs intact. Orchid Island is not a resort destination, but an authentic cultural experience — respectful behavior is important.

Getting there: Ferry from Taitung (2.5h) or flight (30 min., small propeller plane). Best time: April–September.