South & Kenting

Taiwan's Oldest City

Tainan (台南) is Taiwan's oldest city (founded in 1624 by the Dutch) and the former capital. While Taipei represents the modern, glittering side of Taiwan, Tainan is the island's cultural and culinary soul. Over 200 temples in a relatively small urban area, a legendary street food scene that even amazes Taiwanese from Taipei, and a history that dates back 400 years — from the Dutch East India Company through the Japanese colonial period to the Kuomintang era.

Tainan feels more relaxed than Taipei: the alleys are narrower, the buildings lower, and the people a touch friendlier. The city lives in the rhythm of the temples and markets — morning milkfish congee at a street stall, afternoon tea in the shade of a banyan tree, evening chaos and aromas of the Flower Night Market.

Temple Highlights

• Confucius Temple (孔廟, 1665): The oldest Confucius temple in Taiwan — simple, elegant, surrounded by ancient trees. The red walls and curved roofs exude a tranquility that contrasts with the livelier Taoist temples. The street in front is a charming promenade with cafes, ceramic shops, and bookstores. Free of charge.
• Grand Matsu Temple (大天后宮): One of Taiwan's most important Mazu temples. Mazu (妈祖) is the sea goddess and Taiwan's most popular deity — millions of devotees make pilgrimages to her temples annually. Magnificent wood carvings, incense smoke, and praying believers make the visit a spiritual experience.
• Chihkan Tower (赤崁樓): Originally Fort Provintia, built by the Dutch in 1653. Today, a picturesque temple complex with a museum about the Dutch colonial period and nine stone turtles (actually Bixi, mythical dragon turtles) carrying steles on their backs. Admission: 50 TWD (1.50€).
• Anping Fort (安平古堡): Taiwan's oldest fort, built by the Dutch (VOC) in 1624 as Fort Zeelandia. From here, Taiwan was first colonized by Europeans. The old wall remnants, the observation tower, and the museum tell 400 years of colonial history. Admission: 50 TWD.

Street Food in Tainan

Tainan is considered Taiwan's foodie capital — even Taiwanese from the north pilgrimage here for the food. The specialties:

• Danzai Noodles (擔仔麵): Thin noodles in a delicate shrimp sauce with garlic, coriander, and minced pork. Tainan's signature dish, invented in the 1890s. Small portion: 50 TWD (1.50€). Most famous at Du Xiaoyue (度小月).
• Coffin Bread (棺材板): Fried white bread, cut open like a coffin, filled with a creamy chicken and seafood sauce. Sounds macabre, tastes fantastic. Invented in Tainan in the 1940s.
• Milkfish Congee (虱目魚粥): Rice porridge with tender milkfish — the traditional breakfast in Tainan. Available at street stalls from 5 a.m. The Taiwanese say: "If you don't know milkfish, you don't know Tainan."
• Shaved Ice (刨冰): Finely shaved ice topped with fresh mango, taro balls, red beans, and condensed milk. Tainan's best weapon against the tropical heat. Best enjoyed at Tai Cheng Old House (泰成水果店).

Taiwan's Most Creative City

Kaohsiung (高雄) is Taiwan's second-largest city with 2.7 million inhabitants and has transformed in recent years from a gray industrial port city to the most creative city on the island. Former warehouses as art centers, a spectacular harbor with light installations, the world's largest glass installation in a subway station, and an atmosphere reminiscent of Barcelona — Kaohsiung is the counterpoint to Taipei's skyscraper gigantism.

Highlights

• Pier-2 Art Center (駁二藝術特區): Former port warehouses converted into galleries, design shops, street art galleries, and creative workshops. Sculptures stand outdoors, artists work in open studios, and markets are held on weekends. Taiwan's coolest art scene — entry to the outdoor area is free.
• Lotus Pond (蓮池潭): A lake in the north of the city with Kaohsiung's iconic landmark: the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. You enter through the dragon's mouth and exit through the tiger — this brings luck (and wards off evil spirits) according to Taoist belief. Around the lake: several other temples, including the impressive Spring and Autumn Pavilion. Free of charge.
• Formosa Boulevard Station — Dome of Light: The world's largest glass installation in a subway station. 4,500 glass panels by Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata tell the story of humanity on 660 m² — from destruction to rebirth. The colors change depending on the time of day. Worth a stop just for this. Free of charge.
• Cijin Island (旗津): Small island off the harbor, accessible by nostalgic ferry (25 TWD / 0.75€, 5 min.). Black sand beach, fish market with the freshest seafood, lighthouse on the hill, and seafood restaurants where you can get fish, shrimp, and mussels for 200–400 TWD (6–12€).
• Liuhe Night Market (六合夜市): Kaohsiung's most famous night market. Specialties: stone-grilled seafood, papaya milk (the best in Taiwan!), and saltwater chicken. More touristy than Ruifeng Market, but atmospheric.

Fo Guang Shan (佛光山)

30 minutes outside the city lies Taiwan's largest Buddhist monastery. The attached Buddha Memorial Center houses a 36-meter-high seated Buddha and a museum on the worldwide spread of Buddhism. The complex is monumental — pavilions, meditation halls, and a 400-meter-long pilgrimage path lined with 480 Buddha statues. Admission is free, vegetarian lunch is offered for free (donations welcome). An experience that moves even non-Buddhists.

Taiwan's Tropical Southern Cape

Kenting (墾丁) is Taiwan's southernmost point and the island's only tropical national park. Here, just beyond the Tropic of Cancer, temperatures range from 25–32°C year-round, palm trees sway in the wind, coral reefs line the coast, and the sea shimmers in all shades of blue. Kenting is Taiwan's answer to Thailand — without the tourist crowds, with the same Taiwanese infrastructure and safety.

Beaches & Nature

• Baisha Beach (白沙灣): The most beautiful beach in Kenting — 500 m of white sand, calm, clear water, ideal for swimming and snorkeling. A perfect spot for sunsets. Parking fee: 50 TWD.
• Eluanbi Lighthouse (鵝鑾鼻燈塔): The southernmost point of Taiwan with a historic lighthouse (1883, armed — the only lighthouse in the world with gun ports!). The surrounding park features spectacular coral rock formations and a coastal path with sea views. Admission: 60 TWD (1.80€).
• Longpan Park (龍磐公園): Dramatic cliffs that plunge steeply into the sea — one of Taiwan's wildest landscapes. Especially breathtaking at sunrise and under the starry sky (Kenting has little light pollution). Free of charge.
• Diving & Snorkeling: Kenting has some of Taiwan's best diving spots: corals, sea turtles, tropical fish, and manta rays. Visibility up to 30 m in autumn. 2-tank dive from 2,000 TWD (58€), snorkeling from 500 TWD (15€).

Kenting Street Night Market

Every evening, Kenting's main street transforms into a lively night market: grilled skewers, fresh mango smoothies, stinky tofu, game stalls, and souvenir shops. The atmosphere is more relaxed and tropical than in Taipei — flip-flops instead of the metro, palm trees instead of skyscrapers.

Getting There

HSR to Zuoying (Kaohsiung), then bus 9188/9189 to Kenting (2h, 350 TWD / 10€). Or: shuttle bus directly from Kaohsiung Airport. Within the national park: rent a scooter (400 TWD/day) — the best way to explore the scattered beaches and viewpoints.

Taiwan's Hidden South

Off the beaten tourist paths, southern Taiwan offers two hidden gems that deserve to be discovered: the Hakka village of Meinong and the Maolin Butterfly Valley.

Meinong (美濃) — Hakka Tradition

The Hakka are a Chinese ethnic group that migrated to Taiwan in the 17th–18th centuries and have preserved their own language, cuisine, and traditions. Meinong is Taiwan's best-preserved Hakka village: tobacco barns from the Japanese era, traditional oil-paper umbrella making (you can paint one yourself!), Hakka cloth weaving, and a unique cuisine. The Hakka Stir-Fry (客家小炒) — stir-fried pork with dried fish and spring onions — is hearty and aromatic. Ban Tiao (板條, wide rice noodles in broth) is the Hakka counterpart to Taiwan's beef noodle soup.

Maolin (茂林) — Purple Butterfly Valley

From November to March, millions of purple crow butterflies (Euploea) overwinter in the warm valleys around Maolin — one of only two places in the world (besides Mexico's Monarch butterfly reserve) where such a phenomenon occurs. The butterflies hang in dense clusters on the trees, covering entire branches. The Maolin National Scenic Area offers hiking trails, suspension bridges, and waterfalls. The best way to get there is by bus from Kaohsiung (1.5h).