Puszta & Eastern Hungary

The Hortobágy Puszta is Europe's largest contiguous natural grassland area — an endless, flat steppe stretching to the horizon, without a tree or hill to break the view. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, the Hortobágy National Park (82,000 hectares) is the quintessence of the Hungarian myth: Csikós on galloping horses, gray cattle with meter-wide horns, Racka sheep with corkscrew-shaped horns, and Mangalica woolly pigs.

The Csikós Horse Show

The Csikós — Hungary's legendary horsemen shepherds — are the stars of the Puszta. Their stunts are breathtaking: They ride standing on the backs of two galloping horses side by side (the Puszta Five — one man controls five horses at a gallop, standing on the two rearmost), have horses lie down on command, crack meter-long whips, and display horsemanship of such virtuosity that even experienced riders are left speechless. Horse shows take place daily at the studs near the Hortobágy Bridge — the Nine-Arch Bridge (Kilenclyukú híd), the longest stone bridge in Hungary (1833), is itself a landmark.

Horse show with carriage ride and Puszta lunch (goulash in a kettle): approx. 6,000–10,000 HUF (15–25€). Bookable on-site or through hotels in Debrecen.

Bird Paradise

The Hortobágy is one of Europe's most important bird sanctuaries. In autumn (September–November), up to 100,000 cranes rest here on their way south — a natural spectacle of biblical proportions. In spring (March–May), spoonbills, great egrets, white-tailed eagles, and over 340 other bird species return. Guided birdwatching tours start from the national park visitor center.

Debrecen

Hungary's second-largest city (200,000 inhabitants) lies on the edge of the Puszta and is the cultural center of Eastern Hungary. The Reformed Great Church (Nagytemplom) — the largest Reformed church in Hungary — is the landmark. The Great Forest (Nagyerdő) on the outskirts houses thermal baths, a zoo, and the university. Debrecen was twice (!) a provisional capital of Hungary and played a key role in Hungarian history.

Eger is one of Hungary's most beautiful and historically rich cities — and one of the most underrated. The Baroque city (56,000 inhabitants) at the foot of the Bükk Mountains combines in a small space: a mighty medieval castle, the northernmost Ottoman minaret in the world, baroque churches, a lyceum with a historic library, and — above all — the Valley of the Beautiful Women (Szépasszonyvölgy), one of Europe's most romantic wine districts.

The Castle of Eger

The castle (Egri vár) sits atop a hill overlooking the city and is the site of one of the legendary sieges in Hungarian history: In 1552, only 2,000 Hungarian soldiers and citizens under Captain István Dobó defended the castle against 35,000–40,000 Ottoman besiegers — and won. The victory became a national myth and is the subject of the most famous Hungarian novel ("Stars of Eger" / "Egri csillagok" by Géza Gárdonyi). The castle houses an underground casemate system, a gallery, and the Dobó Museum. Admission: approx. 3,000 HUF (8€).

The Minaret

Eger's minaret (1596) is the northernmost preserved Ottoman minaret in the world and one of only three in Hungary. The 40-meter-high slender tower can be climbed — 97 narrow, spiral steps lead to the gallery with a panoramic view over the city. Admission: 600 HUF (1.50€). Not for the claustrophobic — the tower has an interior diameter of only 78 cm!

Valley of the Beautiful Women (Szépasszonyvölgy)

A 20-minute walk from the city center lies Hungary's most famous cellar street. Dozens of small wine cellars — dug into the hillside, with stone tables and benches in front — invite you to taste. The concept is simple and ingenious: You go from cellar to cellar and taste the wines directly from the barrel — a glass (1 dl) costs 200–500 HUF (0.50–1.30€). The atmosphere, especially in the evening, is unique: Gypsy music, laughter, the scent of charcoal and wine.

The most famous wine of Eger: Egri Bikavér — the "Bull's Blood of Eger". A robust red wine blend (at least three grape varieties, usually Kékfrankos, Kadarka, and Cabernet), whose legend says that the defenders of the castle in 1552 drank water colored with red wine — the Ottomans thought it was bull's blood and fled. The premium version "Bikavér Superior" can compete with good Bordeaux wines.

The Tokaj wine region (Tokaj-Hegyalja) in northeastern Hungary has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002 and is one of the oldest protected wine regions in the world (classified since 1730 — 120 years before Bordeaux!). Here, the Tokaji Aszú is produced — the "Wine of Kings, King of Wines," as Louis XIV called it.

Tokaji Aszú — Liquid Gold

The Aszú is one of the most extraordinary wines in the world: Handpicked from Furmint grapes affected by noble rot (Botrytis cinerea), the shriveled, raisin-like sweet berries (aszú) are pressed drop by drop into a wine of amber-golden color, complex aroma (honey, apricot, ginger, roasted almond), and nearly immortal longevity. A 5-Puttonyos Aszú (the classic quality level) can mature for decades, even centuries — bottles from the 18th century are stored in the cellars of Tokaj.

The cellars themselves are an experience: Kilometers of tunnels carved into volcanic tuff stone, the walls covered with Cladosporium cellare — a black noble mold that feeds on alcohol vapors and creates a unique microclimate. The temperature remains at 10–12°C year-round, the humidity at 95%. Standing in these cellars, surrounded by barrels and bottles, the mold on the walls, the scent of wine and history in the air — it is timeless.

Wine Tasting in Tokaj

The small town of Tokaj (approx. 4,000 inhabitants) at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers is the center of the region. In the main street and side alleys, wine cellars line up. A tasting (3–6 wines) costs 2,000–5,000 HUF (5–13€) — for wines that cost three times as much in export. Must-try: dry Furmint (the new trend), Szamorodni (semi-dry to sweet, from whole grapes, not selected), and of course the 5-Puttonyos Aszú.

Recommended wineries: Disznókő (magnificent cellar, good introduction), Oremus (Álvaro Palacios quality), Royal Tokaji (the classic), and Patricius (modern line). Most offer tours with cellar visits and tastings — reserve in advance!

Miskolctapolca — Cave Bath

Just an hour's drive west of Tokaj lies Miskolctapolca with its unique cave bath (Barlangfürdő): You swim in natural limestone caves, through underground passages and pools, in 30°C warm thermal water. The light refracts on the stalactites, the acoustics echo mysteriously, and you float through rooms shaped by nature over millions of years. A worldwide unique experience. Admission: approx. 4,000 HUF (10€). The bath also has an outdoor pool and is open year-round.