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Regionen · Kapitel 7

Western Hungary & Thermal Springs

Hungary Reiseführer

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RegionenKapitel 7: Western Hungary & Thermal Springs
Regionen · Kapitel 7

Western Hungary & Thermal Springs

West of the Danube stretches Transdanubia — a region where Roman ruins mingle with Ottoman mosques, Habsburg elegance meets Pannonian vineyards, and thermal springs have bubbled from the earth for millennia. Pécs, Sopron, and the Villány wine region are the jewels of this diverse landscape.

Pécs — Cultural Capital & Ottoman Heritage

Pécs (pronounced: Petsch, 145,000 inhabitants) is Hungary's most fascinating city outside of Budapest — and has been for 2,000 years. The Romans founded Sopianae here, whose early Christian burial chambers are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Ottomans left behind Hungary's best-preserved Islamic buildings. The Habsburgs bestowed baroque splendor upon the city. And in 2010, Pécs was a European Capital of Culture — a title that brought modernization to the city, still felt today.

Main Square & Mosque of Pasha Gázi Kászim

The Széchenyi tér (Main Square) is one of Hungary's most beautiful squares — and at its center stands the most impressive Ottoman building in the country: The former mosque of Pasha Gázi Kászim (1543–1546), now used as a Catholic church, but with the original dome and Muslim prayer niches (Mihrab) inside. The coexistence of cross and crescent in one building is unique in Europe. Admission: 1,200 HUF (3€).

Early Christian Burial Chambers (UNESCO)

Beneath the cathedral of Pécs lie early Christian burial chambers from the 4th century — the best preserved of their kind north of the Alps. The wall paintings (Adam and Eve, Daniel in the lion's den) are astonishingly vivid and colorful. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. Admission: 2,500 HUF (6€).

Zsolnay Cultural Quarter

Pécs is home to the Zsolnay Manufacture — the legendary ceramics and porcelain factory, whose iridescent Eosin glaze adorns roofs throughout Hungary (the Great Market Hall and Matthias Church in Budapest!). The former factory site has been transformed into the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter: museum, studios, shops, playgrounds, and a restaurant in the historic factory halls. The permanent exhibition showcases 150 years of Zsolnay history — from everyday ceramics to world-class artworks.

University Town with Flair

Pécs is a vibrant university town (founded in 1367, one of the oldest in Europe) with a young, creative scene. The alleys of the old town are filled with cafés, small galleries, and wine bars. The Mediterranean climate — Pécs is one of Hungary's sunniest and warmest cities — gives the city an almost southern European atmosphere. Fig trees and almond trees grow in the gardens, and the terraces are occupied until October.

Tipp

Pécs can be perfectly combined with the Villány wine region: 30 minutes south lies one of Hungary's best red wine areas. Explore Pécs during the day, taste in the wine cellars of Villány in the evening — an ideal two-day excursion.

Sopron — The Most Loyal City

Sopron (pronounced: Schopron, 62,000 inhabitants) is located just 6 km from the Austrian border and bears the honorary title "Civitas Fidelissima" — the most loyal city. In 1921, when Western Hungary was to be ceded to Austria, Sopron voted in a referendum to remain with Hungary. This act of loyalty is celebrated to this day.

Old Town & Fire Tower

Sopron's Old Town is one of the best-preserved in all of Hungary — a compact oval of medieval and baroque buildings, surrounded by remnants of the city wall. The landmark is the Fire Tower (Tűztorony) on the main square: a 61-meter high tower that combines Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements — a layer cake of architectural history. The observation deck offers a panoramic view over the city and, in clear weather, all the way to Austria. Admission: 2,000 HUF (5€).

Around the Main Square (Fő tér) stand magnificent Baroque and Renaissance buildings, including the Goat Church (Kecske-templom, Gothic, 13th century), considered the most beautiful Gothic church in Hungary. Beneath the old town's cellars lie Roman ruins — Sopron (as Scarbantia) was an important Roman settlement on the Amber Road.

Pan-European Picnic

On August 19, 1989, history was made near Sopron: During the Pan-European Picnic, the border to Austria was opened for three hours — and over 600 East German citizens seized the opportunity to flee to the West. This moment was a key event on the path to the fall of the Berlin Wall three months later. A memorial at the border crossing commemorates this historic event.

Wine & Indulgence

Sopron is surrounded by vineyards — the Sopron wine region is famous for its Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch), an elegant, medium-bodied red wine. The wine cellars in the Lővér hill area are less touristy than Eger or Tokaj but equally charming. Sopron is also known for its cafés and confectioneries — the Austrian influence is unmistakable. Tip: Many Austrians come for affordable dental visits and shopping — Sopron's market hall is a hidden gem for affordable Hungarian delicacies.

Villány — Hungary's Red Wine Mecca

In the far south of Hungary, near the Croatian border, lies the Villány-Siklós wine region — the best red wine area in the country and one of the most exciting in all of Central Europe. The Mediterranean microclimate (the warmest region in Hungary, more sunshine hours than Bordeaux!) and the limestone soils create ideal conditions for robust red wines that have made a splash internationally in recent years.

The Wine Route of Villány

The Villányi Borút (Wine Route) connects the towns of Villány, Villánykövesd, and Palkonya over 15 km — a ribbon of wine cellars, tasting rooms, and restaurants. The cellar lane of Villánykövesd is particularly picturesque: whitewashed cellars, vine-covered entrances, stone tables under walnut trees. Here, taste and buy directly from the winemaker — a bottle of premium red wine from 2,000 HUF (5€), a tasting of 5 wines from 3,000 HUF (8€).

The Wines

Villány is famous for:

  • Cabernet Franc — Villány's flagship grape variety. Elegant, spicy, with notes of red pepper and violets. The best examples rival those of the Loire.
  • Portugieser (Kékoportó) — Light, fruity red wine, perfect as an introduction or for lunch. Villány's "everyday wine".
  • Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon — Of world-class quality in the best locations. The Bordeaux blends from Villány have won awards at international competitions.

Recommended wineries: Gere Attila (the pioneer), Bock József (modern and innovative), Tiffán (family tradition), Sauska (architecturally impressive), and Günzer Tamás (excellent Cabernet Franc).

Siklós & Harkány

Just a few kilometers from Villány lie two more gems: Siklós with its mighty castle (one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Hungary, with hotel and restaurant) and Harkány with its thermal outdoor pool — one of the best in southern Hungary, with sulfurous water at 62°C from 50 m deep. The combination of wine, castle, and thermal bath makes the region the perfect three-day destination.

Tipp

Villány can be excellently explored as a day trip from Pécs (30 min drive). Even better: Stay overnight in a winery hotel (Sauska Lodge, Bock Hotel — from 25,000 HUF / 65€) and enjoy the region at leisure. The best wineries require advance reservations!

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