Alexandria & Mediterranean Coast
Bibliotheca Alexandrina★★★
The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is the modern successor to the ancient Library of Alexandria — and one of the most impressive cultural buildings of the 21st century. Opened in 2002, it was designed by the Norwegian architectural firm Snøhetta: a massive, slanted circular structure (160 m in diameter) made of Aswan granite, with its exterior wall engraved with script from 120 different alphabets.
Inside, the library houses space for 8 million books, a large reading room (the largest in the world on a single level), four museums, a planetarium, a cultural center, and regular exhibitions. The architecture alone — light floods through the slanted roof over cascading terraces — is worth the visit.
Museums in the Bibliotheca
- Antiquities Museum: Archaeological finds from Alexandria and the surrounding area
- Manuscript Museum: Rare Arabic and Islamic manuscripts
- Sadat Museum: Dedicated to Egyptian President Anwar Sadat
- Science Museum: Interactive exhibition, great for families
Tipp
The reading room of the Bibliotheca is accessible even without a library card — just say at the entrance that you want to visit the hall as a tourist. The view from above over the cascading reading levels is spectacular.
Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa★★
The Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa are the largest known Roman burial site in Egypt and are among the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. Discovered in 1900 when a donkey fell into the shaft, the three underground levels extend 35 meters deep.
The fascinating aspect is the fusion of cultures: Egyptian gods are depicted in Roman togas, Greek Medusa heads flank pharaonic scenes. The site dates back to the 2nd century AD — a time when Alexandria was a melting pot of civilizations. In the main tomb, there are three sarcophagi adorned with reliefs that depict Egyptian afterlife beliefs in a Greco-Roman style.
The catacombs are damp and narrow — claustrophobics should be prepared. But the atmosphere is unique: you literally descend into 2,000 years of history.
Corniche & Qaitbay Citadel
Corniche
The Corniche — Alexandria's waterfront promenade — stretches over 15 km along the Mediterranean coast. A sunset stroll is a must: fishermen cast their lines, families stroll, street vendors offer roasted corn and fresh juice. Unlike Cairo, here you feel a Mediterranean lightness.
Qaitbay Citadel
At the tip of the Corniche stands the Citadel of Sultan Qaitbay (1477) — built on the foundations of the legendary Pharos of Alexandria, the ancient lighthouse that was one of the Seven Wonders of the World (destroyed by earthquakes in the 14th century). The fortress offers a fantastic view over the harbor and the Mediterranean. Inside, a small maritime museum.
In front of the citadel, there are still sunken remains of the lighthouse and the ancient royal palace on the seabed — underwater archaeology to marvel at (snorkeling tours are offered when conditions permit).
Dining & Drinking in Alexandria€
Alexandria is the culinary capital of Egypt — especially when it comes to fish and seafood. The city has a culinary tradition that combines Greek, Lebanese, Turkish, and Egyptian influences.
Fish & Seafood
Kadoura · 33 Bahary St — The legend among Alexandria's fish restaurants. Since 1969, Kadoura has been serving the freshest fish in the city: you choose your fish at the counter, it is weighed and grilled. Shrimp, calamari, sea bass, red mullet — all fantastic. Price by weight, a sumptuous meal for 2 people: 400–600 LE (8–12 €). No alcohol.
Fish Market · 26 July St — A more upscale fish restaurant with a Mediterranean view. Same counter selection, but air-conditioned ambiance. 300–500 LE per person.
Alexandrian Specialties
- Alexandrian Liver: Fried liver with garlic, chili peppers, and spices — a street food classic available at small stalls everywhere (20–40 LE).
- Baladi Bread: Fresh from the oven — Alexandria's bakeries produce the best Aish Baladi (Egyptian flatbread) in the country. A stack costs almost nothing (2–5 LE).
- Fiteer: Egyptian "pizza" — thin dough sheets filled with cheese, minced meat, or sweet with sugar and cream. Fatatri restaurants serve them fresh from the oven.
Cafés
Trianon · Midan Saad Zaghloul — Legendary grand café in the heart of the city, since the 1920s. Cavafy, Durrell, and Alexandria's cosmopolitan elite once sat here. The atmosphere (wood paneling, chandeliers) is still enchanting. Coffee and pastries from 50–80 LE.
Montazah Palace Gardens
The Montazah Gardens in eastern Alexandria are a 150-hectare park by the sea, laid out around the summer palace of Khedive Abbas Hilmi II (1892). The palace itself (Al-Haramlek) is not open to the public, but the gardens with their palm trees, bougainvilleas, bridges, and small beaches are an oasis of tranquility — and one of the most popular excursion destinations for Alexandrians.
The Salamlek Palace (the former hunting lodge) is now a luxury hotel (Helnan Palestine Hotel) — having tea on the terrace with a view of the Mediterranean bay is a stylish experience.
Practical Tips for Alexandria
Getting There
From Cairo: Train (2.5–3 hours, air-conditioned 1st class from 50–80 LE, hourly) or bus (Go Bus, 2.5 hours, from 100–150 LE). The train is more comfortable and recommended — Misr station in Alexandria is centrally located.
Borg el-Arab Airport (HBE): 40 km west, few international flights. For most travelers, the train from Cairo is the best option.
Getting Around
Tram: Alexandria has the oldest tram in Africa (since 1863). Slow, rickety, but charming and cheap (3 LE). Line 1 runs along the Corniche — an affordable sightseeing tour.
Uber: Works in Alexandria. 10 km ride: 40–80 LE.
Taxis: The yellow and black taxis have no meter — negotiate the price beforehand. Within the city: 30–60 LE should suffice.
Accommodation
- Budget: Alexander the Great Hotel, Metropole Hotel (historic, charming). From 15–25 €/night.
- Mid-range: Steigenberger Cecil (legendary colonial hotel, where Durrell wrote his "Alexandria Quartet"). From 50–80 €.
- Luxury: Four Seasons San Stefano, Helnan Palestine (Montazah). From 100–200 €.
Day Trip or Overnight?
Alexandria works as a day trip from Cairo (2.5 hours each way), but an overnight stay is worthwhile: the city reveals its charm especially in the evening, when the Corniche is lit up and the fish restaurants are bustling. Ideal: 2 nights, allowing for an immersive experience in the Alexandrian atmosphere.
War dieses Kapitel hilfreich?
