Volcanoes & Highlands
Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna
★★★ The Perfect Volcano
The Volcán Arenal is Costa Rica's most iconic volcano — a nearly perfect cone of 1,670 meters towering over Lake Arenal and the country's postcard image. Until 2010, Arenal was one of the most active volcanoes in the world: at night, you could see glowing lava flowing down its slopes. Today it rests, but the geothermal energy continues to simmer — fueling the famous hot springs around La Fortuna.
Hot Springs
The volcanic activity heats natural springs to 37–45°C — perfect for relaxing after a day of hiking. There are options for every budget:
- Tabacón Grand Spa: The most luxurious option — natural pools in a tropical garden setting, waterfall, restaurant. 99 USD (day pass). Especially atmospheric in the evening.
- Baldi Hot Springs: 25 pools of varying temperatures, water slides, swim-up bar. 45 USD. Family-friendly, but can be crowded.
- Ecotermales: Smaller, quieter, only 100 visitors at a time. 45 USD including dinner. The best balance of quality and tranquility.
- Río Cholín (free!): The local secret — a warm river where locals bathe for free. 3 km east of La Fortuna, not signposted by the roadside. Ask locals for "el río caliente gratis".
★★★ La Fortuna Waterfall (Catarata La Fortuna)
A 70-meter-high waterfall plunging into a crystal-clear, turquoise pool — surrounded by lush rainforest. The descent over 500 concrete steps is strenuous (the ascent even more so!), but once at the bottom, a dip in the cool mountain water is rewarding. One of the most photogenic spots in Costa Rica.
5.5 km southwest of La Fortuna. 18 USD. Daily 7:30–16:00 (last entry 15:00). Arrive early in the morning to avoid the crowds.
★★ Arenal Hanging Bridges
A network of 15 bridges (6 of them suspension bridges) through the primary rainforest at the foot of Arenal. The longest bridge spans 98 meters over a gorge. From above, you can see toucans, macaws, and with luck, sloths. 26 USD self-guided, 52 USD with guide (recommended for wildlife observations).
Tipp
The free "Río Cholín" is the best tip for budget travelers: Warm volcanic water surrounded by forest, without entrance fees and without crowds. Ask in your hostel for directions — every local knows the place. Best visited in the evening by candlelight (bring your own candles!).
Hikes around Arenal
★★ Arenal Volcano National Park
The national park offers several well-marked hiking trails through hardened lava fields from 1968 and 1992. You literally walk over the remnants of the last eruptions, while the perfect volcanic cone looms above you. The vegetation is slowly reclaiming the lava field — a fascinating process.
- Sendero Coladas (2 km, easy): Over the 1992 lava field, with views of Lake Arenal. The most popular trail.
- Sendero El Ceibo (3 km, easy): Through primary rainforest to a giant ceiba tree. Good chances of seeing toucans, monkeys, and sloths.
- Sendero Los Heliconias (1 km, easy): Short trail through tropical vegetation with many heliconias and bird-watching opportunities.
Arenal Volcano NP: 15 USD entrance fee. Daily 8:00–16:00 (last entry). 17 km west of La Fortuna.
★★ Cerro Chato
The "little brother" of Arenal — an extinct volcano right next to the active one. The hike to the crater (approx. 3h round trip) is steep and challenging (especially extremely slippery after rain), but at the top awaits a reward: an emerald green crater lake where you can swim. The view of Arenal from above is breathtaking.
Access via Arenal Observatory Lodge or Green Lagoon. 10 USD entrance fee. Good hiking shoes and poles required!
★★ Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges (recommended alternative)
In addition to the mentioned Arenal Hanging Bridges, there is the Mistico Park with 16 bridges, 6 of which are suspension bridges up to 98 meters in span. The self-guided tour is well signposted, but a bird guide (55 USD instead of 26 USD self-guided) is worth its weight in gold: The guides regularly find snakes, sloths, and the elusive motmot bird with its distinctive tail feathers.
Eating & Staying in La Fortuna
Food
Soda Viquez · La Fortuna Center — The best soda in town, run by a friendly family. The Casado with Carne en Salsa is legendary, and the tortillas are freshly made. 3,000–5,000 CRC.
Don Rufino · Main Street — La Fortuna's best restaurant: upscale Tico cuisine with a twist. The "Lomito al Volcán" (filet in volcano sauce) and the "Ceviche de Palmito" (palm heart ceviche) are specialties. 10,000–18,000 CRC. Reservation in the evening!
Lava Lounge · Main Street — International cuisine with the best cocktails in town. The wood-fire pizza and burgers are solid, but people come mainly for the atmosphere and the "Arenal Margarita". 6,000–12,000 CRC.
Chifa La Familia Feliz · La Fortuna Center — Chinese-Peruvian fusion (Chifa) at bargain prices: Huge portions of fried rice for 3,500 CRC. More popular with locals than tourists — a good sign.
Café Rainforest · Main Street — Specialty coffee directly from local farms, plus handmade chocolate and cakes. Pour-over from 2,000 CRC. The perfect afternoon stop.
Accommodation
Arenal Hostel Resort — Backpacker paradise with pool, hot tub, and volcano view. Dorms from 14 USD, private rooms from 40 USD. Shuttle to the waterfall and hot springs bookable.
Hotel Lomas del Volcán — Charming bungalows with views of Arenal. Pool, restaurant, tropical gardens. Double rooms from 90 USD including breakfast.
Nayara Springs — The luxury experience at Arenal: Villas with private hot-spring pool, butler service, and an award-winning restaurant. From 600 USD/night. Regularly among the top 10 hotels in Central America.
Arenal Observatory Lodge — The only lodge within the national park, originally built as a volcano observation station by the Smithsonian Institution. Unbeatable proximity to the volcano, excellent hiking trails directly from the lodge. Double rooms from 95 USD.
Tipp
La Fortuna's main street is a tourist trap with overpriced tour operators. Do NOT book tours at the street stands, but through your accommodation or directly with the providers (Desafío, Arenal Evergreen, Wave Expeditions) — often 20–30% cheaper.
Rincón de la Vieja
★★ The Adventurous Volcano
The Rincón de la Vieja in northwestern Costa Rica (Guanacaste Province) is less known than Arenal but just as spectacular — and much less visited. The volcano (1,916 m) is one of Costa Rica's most active: The last phreatic eruption was in 2024. The region around the volcano offers:
- Bubbling Mud Pots (Volcancitos): Small mini-volcanoes of bubbling, hot mud — surreal and photogenic
- Fumaroles: Sulfurous steam eruptions that smell like rotten eggs
- Hot Rivers: Natural hot springs in the middle of the forest
- Waterfalls: The Catarata La Cangreja with its turquoise pool is the most beautiful
Hiking
The park offers several well-marked hiking trails:
- Sendero Las Pailas (3.5 km, easy): The most popular trail passes by mud pots, fumaroles, and mini-geysers. Perfect for a half-day.
- Sendero Catarata La Cangreja (5 km, medium): To the beautiful waterfall with a blue pool. Swimming allowed!
- Sendero to the Crater (not always open): Closed during volcanic activity. If open: a challenging but rewarding full-day hike.
Adventure Activities
The private Hacienda Guachipelín and Hotel Borinquen offer canopy tours, canyoning, tubing on the Rio Negro, and horseback riding through the dry forest landscape. The combo packages (Canopy + Hot Springs + Mud Bath: 85–120 USD) are a day adventure.
25 km northeast of Liberia. Entrance: 15 USD. Two entrances: Sector Las Pailas (more popular) and Sector Santa María. Daily 8:00–15:00. Drive from Liberia: 45 min.
Rincón de la Vieja: Eating, Sleeping & Tours
Hacienda Guachipelín — The Adventure Center
The Hacienda Guachipelín is a former cattle hacienda that has transformed into the best adventure provider in the region. The "Adventure Combo" (120 USD) includes:
- Canopy Tour: 12 ziplines over gorges and forest
- Canyoning: Rappelling down waterfalls (up to 20 meters)
- Tubing: Floating down the Río Negro through a volcanic gorge
- Volcanic Mud Bath: Natural hot volcanic mud that softens the skin
- Hot Springs: Relaxation after the adventure
The hacienda also offers accommodations: rustic rooms in the former ranch house complex, surrounded by tropical dry forest. Double rooms from 110 USD including breakfast.
More Accommodation Tips
Rinconcito Lodge — Simple, cozy lodge at the foot of the volcano. Family-run, with its own restaurant and organized hikes. Double rooms from 60 USD.
Hotel Borinquen — Luxurious thermal resort complex with volcanically heated pools, mud baths, and a spa. The natural sauna caves (steam directly from the volcano!) are unique. Double rooms from 180 USD.
Horseback Riding in the Dry Forests
The area around Rincón de la Vieja is Guanacaste — the province of the Sabaneros (cowboys). Horseback tours through the dry forests and along rivers offer a completely different Costa Rica than the humid rainforest: savanna, cacti, and with luck howler monkeys, armadillos, and coatis. 2h tour from 45 USD.
Río Celeste & Volcán Tenorio
★★★ The Turquoise River — A Natural Wonder
The Río Celeste is one of those places where you can't believe your eyes. The water glows in an otherworldly turquoise, as if someone had poured paint into it. The explanation is chemistry: At a point called “Teñideros” (Dyeing Point), two rivers with different pH levels and mineral content mix. The reaction creates tiny particles that reflect sunlight in this unreal blue.
The Hike
A 6 km circular trail (approx. 3–4 hours) leads through dense rainforest to the highlights:
- Catarata Río Celeste: The waterfall plunges 30 meters into a brightly turquoise pool — THE photo spot of Costa Rica. Swimming has been prohibited since 2019 (conservation).
- Teñideros: The spot where the two rivers meet and the water changes color. You can see it directly: left clear, right clear, together: turquoise. Magical.
- Borbollones: Hot, bubbling springs on the riverbank — volcanic energy right under your feet.
- Laguna Azul: A serene lagoon in deep blue, surrounded by forest.
Practical Information
The trail is steep and slippery, especially after rain (and it rains here often!). Sturdy hiking boots are an absolute must — flip-flops or sneakers lead to falls. Rubber boots can be rented at the entrance (2,000 CRC).
Volcán Tenorio National Park. 12 USD entrance fee. Daily 8:00–14:00 (last entry). Max. 400 visitors/day — come early! About 2.5h drive from La Fortuna. About 1.5h from Liberia.
Achtung
The Río Celeste is BROWN, not turquoise, in the rain! After heavy rains (common in the rainy season), the river loses its color for hours or days. The best chances for the intense turquoise: dry season (Dec–Apr) or after several dry days. Arrive before 9:00 am.
Río Celeste: Accommodation & Tips
Where to Stay?
The Tenorio National Park is located between La Fortuna and Liberia — both are about 2–2.5h away. It's worth staying right nearby to be the first in the park in the morning.
Celeste Mountain Lodge — The best option: Boutique lodge with views of Volcán Tenorio, its own rainforest, hummingbird garden, and a restaurant with panoramic windows. Double rooms from 140 USD including breakfast.
Heliconias Rainforest Lodge — Rustic wooden bungalows on the edge of the national park. Guided night walks directly from the lodge. Double rooms from 80 USD.
Posada Rio Celeste — Budget option: simple, clean rooms in a family-run business. Lunchbox available for the hike. Double rooms from 45 USD.
Science: Why is the River Turquoise?
The phenomenon puzzled researchers for years. In 2013, a team from Universidad Nacional discovered: At the point where Río Buena Vista and Quebrada Agria converge, slightly acidic and neutral waters mix. This reaction creates tiny aluminosilicate particles — particles that are just the right size to reflect blue light (Mie scattering). When you scoop water into a glass, it is clear and colorless — the color exists only in the river, due to depth and light refraction.
Combine with Bijagua
The nearby village of Bijagua is the closest town to the national park and offers a quiet, authentic Tico atmosphere. Here you can take chocolate tours with local cocoa farmers (15 USD, 1.5h) and eat the best Casado in the area at Soda Doña Maria (3,000 CRC).
Volcán Turrialba & Whitewater Rafting
★★ Volcán Turrialba
The Turrialba (3,340 m) is currently Costa Rica's most active volcano — since 2014, it has repeatedly spewed ash, temporarily shutting down San José airport. The national park is closed since the eruptions (as of 2025/26), but the volcano is spectacular from afar: The ash clouds over the crater are a sign of the immense forces beneath the surface.
★★★ Whitewater Rafting on the Río Pacuare
The Río Pacuare is considered one of the 10 best whitewater rivers in the world — and rightly so. 28 kilometers of Class III and IV rapids through a deep jungle gorge, past waterfalls, tropical forest, and with some luck, toucans and monkeys on the shore. It is the most intense outdoor adventure in Costa Rica.
Most tours start in Turrialba (1.5h east of San José) and last a full day. For an even more intense experience, book a 2-day tour with an overnight stay in a jungle lodge right on the riverbank — no electricity, no internet, just the river and the forest.
Rafting Routes Compared
| River | Class | Duration | Price | For Whom |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Río Pacuare | III–IV | Full day | 90–130 USD | The best! Jungle gorge, waterfalls |
| Río Pacuare (2 days) | III–IV | 2 days | 250–350 USD | Unforgettable: Lodge on the riverbank |
| Río Reventazón | II–III | Half day | 60–80 USD | Beginners and families |
| Río Sarapiquí | II–IV | Half day | 65–85 USD | Bookable from La Fortuna |
Providers
- Exploradores Outdoors: The most professional provider, founded by a former Olympic kayaker. Excellent guides, top equipment. Offices in Turrialba, La Fortuna, and San José.
- Ríos Tropicales: Costa Rica's oldest rafting provider (since 1985). Operates the only lodge directly on the Río Pacuare. 2-day tours are their specialty.
- Pacuare Outdoor Center: Smaller, personal provider with excellent reviews.
CATIE — Research Center
The Centro Agronómico Tropical de Investigación y Enseñanza (CATIE) in Turrialba is a tropical research center with a botanical garden housing 2,500 plant species. A hidden gem for plant and coffee lovers — here, the future of tropical agriculture is being researched. The Agro-Ecotourism Trail (2h, 15 USD) showcases cocoa, coffee, vanilla, and spice cultivation in a tropical forest garden.
CATIE: 5 USD (self-guided) / 15 USD (guided). Mon–Fri 7:00–16:00. 3 km east of Turrialba.
★★ Monumento Nacional Guayabo
Costa Rica's most significant archaeological site is located 19 km north of Turrialba. Here, the remains of a pre-Columbian city have been excavated, inhabited between 1000 BC and 1400 AD — with paved roads, aqueducts (still functioning today!), burial mounds, and mysterious petroglyphs. For Costa Rican standards, Guayabo is an archaeological wonder, as the country otherwise has few monumental pre-Columbian structures.
6 USD entrance fee. Daily 8:00–15:30. 19 km north of Turrialba (last 8 km dirt road).
Tipp
Rafting on the Río Pacuare is Costa Rica's best adventure — if you book only one activity, make it this one. The 2-day tour with an overnight stay in a jungle lodge is unforgettable: evening campfires by the river, morning bird songs and fresh coffee, then back into the rapids.
Cerro Chirripó & San Gerardo de Dota
★★★ Cerro Chirripó — The Highest Point in Costa Rica
At 3,820 meters, Cerro Chirripó is the highest mountain in Costa Rica and one of the highest in Central America. Climbing it is a challenging but non-technical adventure: From the village of San Gerardo de Rivas, a well-marked but steep trail leads 20 km to the summit. Most hikers overnight at the Crestones Base Lodge at 3,400 m and start for the summit before sunrise the next morning.
At the top, you'll find a landscape no one would expect in Costa Rica: Páramo — a treeless, wind-swept highland steppe reminiscent of Scotland or the Andes. On clear mornings, you can see both the Pacific and the Caribbean at the same time. Temperatures can drop below 0°C at night — frost protection in the tropics!
Practical Information
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Entrance Fee | 18 USD (foreigners) |
| Lodge Reservation | Through SINAC, months in advance required! |
| Duration | 2 days (ascent 8–10h, overnight, summit + descent 6–8h) |
| Difficulty | Challenging (1,500 meters elevation gain, altitude sickness possible) |
| What to Bring | Warm clothing (0°C!), sleeping bag, headlamp, 3L water, food |
| Starting Point | San Gerardo de Rivas (Shuttle from San José: 5h) |
★★★ San Gerardo de Dota — Quetzal Paradise
The small valley of San Gerardo de Dota (1,800–2,500 m) is the best place in the world to see the quetzal. The legendary bird of the Maya — with its emerald green plumage and tail feathers up to 60 cm long — lives here year-round, but the best time to spot them is during the breeding season from January to May, when the birds feed on aguacatillo fruits in the trees.
Several lodges in the area offer guided bird-watching tours starting at dawn (5:00 am start, 3h, 40–60 USD). The success rate for quetzal sightings is over 80% during the breeding season.
Savegre Hotel — The best lodge in the valley: family-run since 1954, set in a private cloud forest reserve with 14 km of hiking trails. Bird-watching with in-house guides. Over 200 bird species have been recorded on the grounds. Double rooms from 120 USD including breakfast and guided bird walk.
Trogon Lodge — Quiet lodge with a hummingbird garden and trout pond. Double rooms from 90 USD.
Achtung
For Chirripó, be sure to reserve MONTHS in advance! The lodge at 3,400 m has only 60 beds, and during the high season (Dec–Apr), spots fill up quickly. Without a reservation, there is no hiking permit. Booking through the SINAC system (sinac.go.cr).
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