Nice — Capital of the Côte d'Azur

The Promenade des Anglais is not just a beach promenade — it is the symbol of the Côte d'Azur, a seven-kilometer stage between azure blue sea and the elegant facades of the Belle Époque. It owes its name to the wealthy English winter guests who discovered Nice as a health resort in the 19th century and financed the construction of the promenade.

The Promenade Experience

Joggers, cyclists, rollerbladers, strolling crowds, street musicians — the promenade is a microcosm of the Niçoise way of life. To the left, the legendary Belle Époque hotels like the Hôtel Negresco (the pink dome is unmistakable), to the right, the endless azure of the Baie des Anges. The famous chaises bleues (blue chairs) along the promenade are free seats with a million-dollar view.

The Beaches

Nice's beaches are made of pebbles (galets), not sand — a common misconception. The round, smooth stones take some getting used to, but the crystal-clear water makes up for it. There are public sections (free) and private beaches (15–25€ for a lounger and umbrella). The most beautiful public beaches: Plage du Castel (under the castle hill), Plage de Ponchettes (in front of the old town), and Plage du Centenaire (wide and family-friendly).

The Hôtel Negresco

The Negresco is the landmark of the promenade: a palace in Belle Époque style, opened in 1913, with the pink dome designed by Gustave Eiffel. Inside: a chandelier made of 16,309 crystals (made for the Tsar, never delivered), paintings by Niki de Saint Phalle, and a Michelin-starred restaurant. A drink at the bar is affordable (from 15€) and worth the experience.

The Old Town of Nice (Vieux Nice) is a labyrinth of narrow alleys, ochre-colored baroque facades, clotheslines, hidden squares, and the scent of Socca, olive oil, and freshly baked Fougasse bread. Here, Nice's Italian past (the city belonged to Savoy/Sardinia until 1860) mixes with French flair.

Cours Saleya — The Flower and Spice Market

The heart of the old town is the Cours Saleya — a long, sunny square that becomes a market from Tuesday to Sunday. In the morning: mountains of flowers, Provençal spices, olives, candied fruits, lavender soap, and fresh vegetables. The scent is overwhelming. On Mondays, the square transforms into an antique market (Marché aux Puces). Cafés and restaurants line the edges — the terraces are expensive, but the view of the market hustle is worth every cent.

Baroque Churches

The old town is full of baroque churches — Nice's architectural heritage from the Savoy period:

• Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate: The main church at Place Rossetti with a turquoise dome. Inside: opulent baroque with gilded stucco and marble. Free entry.
• Église Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur (du Gesù): The Jesuit church with one of the most beautiful baroque facades in Nice.
• Chapelle de la Miséricorde: Often called the most beautiful baroque chapel in the world. Inside: a masterpiece of trompe-l'œil, marble, and gold.

Niçoise Street Food

Nice has its own cuisine, distinctly different from classic French — influenced by Italy, Provence, and the sea:

• Socca: Chickpea pancakes from the wood oven, crispy and rustic. Best at Chez Thérésa on Cours Saleya or Chez Pipo in Rue Bavastro.
• Pissaladière: Onion tart with anchovy paste and olives — the Niçoise answer to pizza.
• Pan Bagnat: Nice's sandwich classic: a round bread soaked in olive oil, filled with tuna, egg, olives, tomatoes, and peppers. Salade Niçoise in bread form.
• Fougasse: Flat yeast bread with olives, anchovies, or bacon — perfect for an aperitif.

The Castle Hill

The Colline du Château (Castle Hill) rises 92 meters above the sea at the eastern end of the Promenade des Anglais. Nothing remains of the medieval castle — Louis XIV had it demolished in 1706 — but the park is one of the most beautiful viewpoints on the Côte d'Azur: to the left, the Baie des Anges and the Promenade, to the right, the old port Port Lympia with its colorful houses, below the roofs of the old town.

You can reach the top on foot via the stairs at the end of Rue des Ponchettes (15 minutes, steep), with the free elevator (Ascenseur du Château) at Quai des États-Unis, or via the comfortable path from the port. At the top, there is a waterfall, remnants of the cathedral, shady benches, and a small bar.

The Great Museums

Nice has an exceptional museum landscape — many of them free. The city was the chosen home of Matisse (37 years), Chagall, and numerous other artists who sought the light of the Côte d'Azur:

• Musée Matisse (Cimiez) — In a Genoese villa from the 17th century, the museum displays the life's work of Henri Matisse: paintings, gouaches, sculptures, and the famous cut-outs. Matisse lived and worked in Nice from 1917 until his death in 1954. Admission: free.
• Musée National Marc Chagall (Cimiez) — The only national museum dedicated to a living artist (opened in 1973): 17 large paintings on biblical themes, a concert hall with Chagall stained glass, and a mosaic in the garden. One of the most touching museums in Europe. Admission: 10€.
• MAMAC (Promenade des Arts) — The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art: Yves Klein (a native of Nice), Niki de Saint Phalle, Arman, and the New Realists. The terrace offers a panoramic view over the old town. Admission: free.
• Musée Masséna (Promenade des Anglais) — In a magnificent Belle Époque villa directly on the Promenade: the history of Nice from the Savoy period to the tourism boom. The gardens are a green oasis in the midst of the hustle and bustle. Admission: free.

The Old Port

The Port Lympia (also Port de Nice) is Nice's old port at the foot of the castle hill. Colorful houses in Genoese style, fishing boats next to yachts, and on the north side, the restaurants line up. The port has a completely different character than the Promenade — quieter, more authentic, with an atmosphere reminiscent of an Italian fishing village.

From here, the ferries to Corsica (Corsica Ferries, 6–8 hours to Bastia) and the excursion boats to the bays along the coast depart. On the east side of the port begins the emerging district Port with new restaurants, bars, and galleries.

Nice's Culinary Highlights

Nice has perhaps the most independent local cuisine in France — shaped by its proximity to Italy, the sea, and Provence:

The Best Restaurants & Addresses

• Chez Pipo — The best Socca in Nice since 1923. Wood-fired, crispy, with black pepper. Simple place, authentic and affordable (Socca from 3€). Plus a glass of Bellet wine.
• Acchiardo — The oldest tasca in the old town (since 1927). No menu — the daily specials are on the board: Raviolis à la daube, stockfish, Estocaficada. Reservation recommended. Main courses 12–18€.
• La Merenda — No phone, no credit card, no reservation — just go and queue. Dominique Le Stanc (former Negresco chef) cooks Niçoise classics at Michelin level for bistro prices. Legendary.
• Oliviera — Restaurant and olive oil boutique. Nadim Beyrouti serves dishes composed around top-quality olive oils. A culinary revelation.
• Le Safari — At Cours Saleya: the terrace is touristy, but the cuisine is authentic. Salade Niçoise (the real one, without potatoes!), stockfish, ratatouille. Good value for money at lunchtime.

The Salade Niçoise — A Matter of Belief

The real Salade Niçoise contains: tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, tuna (or anchovies), olives (Niçoises!), green peppers, radishes, spring onions, and olive oil. No potatoes, no green beans, no corn. In Nice, this is a serious matter — the city even adopted an official recipe.