Esmeraldas & The Northern Coast

The northern coast of Ecuador, around the province of Esmeraldas, is a world of its own: tropical, Afro-Ecuadorian influenced, with its own music (Marimba!), cuisine, and way of life. Here lives the largest Afro-Ecuadorian community in the country — descendants of West African slaves who came to the coast in the 16th century and developed a unique culture.

Highlights of the Northern Coast

• Atacames — The most popular beach resort for Ecuadorian vacationers: loud, colorful, cheap, and full of life. Coco-cocktails (cocktails in the coconut) on the beach, Marimba music in the evenings, and fresh fish in the Cabañas. Ideal for an authentic Ecuadorian beach experience (rather than for peace).
• Mompiche — A beautiful, still relatively undiscovered fishing village on a long sandy bay. Excellent waves (local surf spot), simple accommodations, and a relaxed atmosphere. Mompiche is what Montañita was 20 years ago.
• Muisne — An island off the coast, accessible by Lancha. Endless beach, almost no tourists, and fresh fish for lunch. Still a real insider tip.
• Reserva Ecológica Manglares Cayapas-Mataje — The largest mangrove belt in the world at the Colombian border. Boat tours through the mangroves with bird watching and crab collector communities.

Afro-Ecuadorian Culture

The province of Esmeraldas is the center of Afro-Ecuadorian culture. The Marimba — a wooden xylophone of West African origin — is the heart of the music and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage in 2015. Along with the Bomba rhythms, the energetic Currulao dance, and a cuisine heavily influenced by coconut: Encocado (fish or shrimp in coconut milk sauce) is the signature dish of the region.

Safety Note: The province of Esmeraldas, especially the city of Esmeraldas itself and the border region with Colombia, has security issues (drug trafficking, petty crime). Tourist places like Atacames, Mompiche, and the beaches are generally safe, but check with the Foreign Office about the current situation before traveling. Do not walk alone on deserted beaches at night.