Cuenca & The Southern Highlands
Cuenca (officially: Santa Ana de los Ríos de Cuenca) is considered the most beautiful city in Ecuador — and many say, in all of South America. Located at 2,560 meters, the country's third-largest city enchants with perfectly preserved colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, flower-adorned balconies, and a relaxed atmosphere that invites you to stay. It's no wonder Cuenca is a favorite among expats from around the world.
Highlights in Cuenca
- Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción (Catedral Nueva) — The imposing new cathedral with its blue domes dominates the skyline. The interior is surprisingly simple, but the dimensions are impressive. The tower offers a magnificent view.
- Parque Calderón — The central square with the old and new cathedral, surrounded by cafés and restaurants. Illuminated and atmospheric in the evenings.
- Mercado 10 de Agosto — Cuenca's central market is a culinary adventure: fresh juices (25 cents!), hornado (roast pig), mote pillo (corn with eggs), and traditional soups. It doesn't get more authentic than this.
- Barranco & Río Tomebamba — The steep riverbanks of the Tomebamba River, lined with colonial houses with balconies, are the most photogenic motif of the city. Especially beautiful at sunset.
- Panama Hats — Despite the name, the famous "Panama hats" come from Ecuador — specifically from the Cuenca region. At the Museo del Sombrero (Homero Ortega), you can watch the making of the fine toquilla straw hats. The finest examples cost over 1,000 USD and take months to produce.
Around Cuenca
- Parque Nacional Cajas — Just 30 km west lies this extraordinary national park: over 230 glacial lakes in a páramo landscape at 3,100–4,450 meters. Day hikes through a surreal high moorland with Polylepis trees (the highest trees in the world). Entrance: free. Bus from Cuenca: 1 hour, 2 USD.
- Ingapirca — The most significant Inca ruin in Ecuador, 80 km north of Cuenca. Not comparable to Machu Picchu, but the elliptical sun temple and the fusion of Inca and Cañari architecture are fascinating. Entrance: 6 USD.
- Gualaceo & Chordeleg — Two charming villages east of Cuenca: Gualaceo is known for its fruit markets and ikat-woven textiles, Chordeleg for goldsmithing and filigree jewelry.
Cuenca deserves at least 2–3 days — not just for the sights, but for the atmosphere. The city has a tranquility and elegance that Quito lacks.
