Otavalo & The North

Two hours north of Quito lies Otavalo — home to the most famous indigenous market in South America and one of the most vibrant examples of indigenous culture on the entire continent. The Otavaleños, a Quechua people, are known for their masterful textile arts, their distinctive clothing (men with long black braids and white pants, women with embroidered blouses and golden necklaces), and their business acumen.

The Saturday Market

Every Saturday, Otavalo transforms into a firework of colors. The market spreads over several plazas: The Plaza de los Ponchos is the center — here you'll find handwoven rugs, alpaca sweaters, embroidered tablecloths, leather goods, jewelry, and traditional ponchos in hundreds of colors. Farmers sell fruits, vegetables, herbs, and live animals in the surrounding area (the livestock market starts at 6 a.m. — a unique experience). The market takes place daily, but Saturday is the largest and most atmospheric.

Around Otavalo

• Laguna de Cuicocha — A deep blue crater lake at 3,064 meters in the caldera of an extinct volcano, with two small islands in the middle. The circuit (4–5 hours, 14 km) is one of the most beautiful day hikes in Ecuador. Entrance: 5 USD.
• Cascada de Peguche — A sacred waterfall of the Otavaleños, 15 minutes on foot from the town. Especially important during Inti Raymi (the solstice festival in June), when ritual cleansing ceremonies take place here.
• Cotacachi — Known as the "Leather City" for its leather goods shops. The town has a pretty colonial square and is the starting point for Laguna de Cuicocha.
• Ibarra — The "white city" (because of its white colonial buildings) is an hour north of Otavalo. Famous for helados de paila — handmade ice cream stirred in copper kettles on straw.

Getting there: Buses run every 15 minutes from Quito's Terminal Carcelén to Otavalo (2–2.5 hours, 2.50 USD). Be there by 8 a.m. for the full Saturday market.