Santo Spirito & the Artisan Quarter

Piazza Santo Spirito

The Piazza Santo Spirito is the heart of Oltrarno and Florence's most authentic square: Here, students, artisans, families, and artists sit on the steps of the basilica, drink aperitivo in the bars, and enjoy the evening. Not a tourist spot — a living place. In the morning: small market (Mon–Sat, fruit, vegetables, flowers). In the evening: aperitivo mood in the Volume Bar, Osteria dell'Enoteca, and Caffè Ricchi.

Basilica di Santo Spirito

The Church of Santo Spirito (1444–1487) is Brunelleschi's last masterpiece — a study in harmony and proportion. The simple facade is deceiving: The interior is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture with 38 side chapels, each housing artworks, including a crucifix attributed to the young Michelangelo (he is said to have carved it as thanks for permission to dissect corpses). Admission: €2.

The Artisan Quarter

The Oltrarno is Florence's last artisan quarter: In the alleys of Via Maggio, Via Santo Spirito, and Borgo San Frediano, gilders, bookbinders, restorers, frame makers, and mosaic artists still work in their botteghe (workshops). You can peek into the open workshops and watch the artisans at work — a living museum of Artigianato fiorentino (Florentine craftsmanship). In Via di Santo Spirito, you'll also find some of the city's best antique shops.

Giardino Bardini

The Bardini Garden is Oltrarno's best-kept secret: a terraced Renaissance garden with spectacular views of the Duomo, less visited than the Boboli Gardens and with a famous wisteria terrace that blooms in purple rain in April/May. In Palazzo Bardini: changing art exhibitions. Admission: €10 (or included in the Boboli combo ticket).