Kadıköy & the Asian Side
Kadıköy — Istanbul's Hip Heart
Kadıköy is to Istanbul what Kreuzberg is to Berlin: a creative, vibrant, multicultural district on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, rapidly developing into the gastronomic and cultural epicenter of Istanbul. Here, there are no mosques and palaces as main attractions — here, it's the people, the food, and the atmosphere.
Kadıköy Market (Çarşı)
The Kadıköy Market is the best food market in Istanbul — and that's no exaggeration. In a maze of covered alleys and open stalls, you'll find:
- Fresh Fish: Shiny sea bream, sea bass, Hamsi (anchovies) — straight from the Bosphorus.
- Cheese: Dozens of Turkish cheese varieties — Beyaz Peynir (soft cheese), Kaşar (hard cheese), Van Otlu (herb cheese from Eastern Anatolia).
- Spices & Olives: Mountains of Pul Biber, sumac, cumin, and 20 varieties of olives.
- Baklava & Sweets: The best baklava shops are here — not at the Spice Bazaar. Try the baklava at Güllüoğlu or Baylan.
- Street Food: Kokoreç (grilled lamb intestines in bread — sounds adventurous, tastes fantastic), Midye dolma (stuffed mussels), Tantuni (beef wrap).
Moda — Istanbul's Riviera
South of Kadıköy lies Moda — a quiet, tree-lined district with Art Nouveau houses, independent cafés, and a seafront promenade that is among the most beautiful in Istanbul. The Moda Pier offers a stunning view of the European side's skyline. Young Istanbulites sit in the cafés over their laptops, families play in the parks — the pace is noticeably slower than in Beyoğlu.
- Moda Promenade: 2 km waterfront path from Kadıköy to Fenerbahçe Park — perfect for jogging, walking, or just sitting and watching.
- Cafés: Moda has the highest café density in Istanbul — Third-Wave coffee shops like Walter's Coffee, Café Fazıl, or Montag line up one after another.
- Fenerbahçe Park: At the end of the peninsula: a large park with a beach, tea gardens, and the stadium of Fenerbahçe (Istanbul's football rival of Galatasaray).
Tipp
The best plan for the Asian side: In the morning, take the ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy (20 min., €0.50), explore the market, enjoy Kahvaltı (Turkish breakfast) in one of the breakfast cafés, then walk to Moda, have coffee at the Moda Pier, and return by ferry in the evening — the return trip at sunset is magical.
Üsküdar & Çamlıca Hill
Üsküdar
Üsküdar is one of the oldest and most conservative districts on the Asian side — and one of the most atmospheric. The mosques on the waterfront (Mihrimah Sultan Camii, Yeni Valide Camii) offer one of the best views of the European skyline, especially at sunset. The ferry terminal is a meeting point for anglers, tea drinkers, and seagulls.
Kız Kulesi (Leander's Tower / Maiden's Tower)
The Maiden's Tower stands on a small island in the Bosphorus off Üsküdar — an iconic Istanbul landmark that has sparked the imagination for 2,500 years. Various legends surround the tower: A sultan locked up his daughter to protect her from a prophesied snake — in vain. Today, the restored tower houses a restaurant and an observation deck. Ferry from Üsküdar (€15 round trip).
Çamlıca Hill & Mosque
The Çamlıca Hill (268 m) is the highest point in Istanbul and offers the most extensive panoramic view of the city — over the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara, the Princes' Islands, and on clear days, as far as Uludağ (120 km away). On the hill stands the Çamlıca Mosque since 2019, the largest mosque in Turkey: space for 63,000 worshippers, six minarets, 72-meter-high dome. Architecturally controversial, but the scale is impressive. Admission: free.
- Tea Gardens: Around the hill, there are several Çay Bahçesi (tea gardens) with panoramic views. A glass of tea (€0.50) and the view over Istanbul — it doesn't get better than this.
- Getting There: Metro to Üsküdar, then bus (15 min.) or taxi (€10).
Princes' Islands — Istanbul's Escape
The Adalar (Princes' Islands) are a group of nine islands in the Sea of Marmara, 12–20 km south of Istanbul. In the Ottoman Empire, they served as places of exile for princes and monks — today, they are Istanbul's most popular weekend getaway: car-free, green, quiet, and with the charm of a forgotten Belle Époque.
Büyükada (Big Island)
The largest and most popular Princes' Island: Victorian wooden villas, carriage rides (replaced by electric vehicles since 2020), pine forests, and a Greek Orthodox monastery (Aya Yorgi) on the highest point. The seafront is lined with fish restaurants and cafés.
- Bicycle: The best way to explore Büyükada. Rent bikes at the harbor (from €5/day). The island circuit (approx. 12 km) leads through pine forests, past abandoned villas, and to secluded bathing bays.
- Aya Yorgi: The Greek Orthodox monastery on the hill (203 m). 20-minute ascent, rewarded with a panoramic view over the Sea of Marmara and the Istanbul coast. Pilgrims tie threads to the fence and make a wish.
- Beaches: Yörük Ali Beach and Halik Koyu on the back of the island — quiet and with clean water.
Heybeliada
The second-largest island and the quieter alternative to Büyükada: fewer tourists, more pine forests, the historic Greek Orthodox seminary (Halki) on the hill (closed since 1971, politically controversial). Perfect for hiking and swimming.
Getting There
Ferries from Kabataş (European side, 1.5h) or Kadıköy/Bostancı (Asian side, 45–60 min.). Price with Istanbulkart: approx. €1. In summer: ferries every 30–60 minutes. The ride itself — past Istanbul's skyline, the Maiden's Tower, and the other islands — is already an experience.
Tipp
Avoid the Princes' Islands on weekends in the summer — the ferries are overcrowded and the islands are bursting at the seams. During the week (Tue–Thu), it's wonderfully quiet. Half a day is enough for Büyükada. Take the early ferry (9 am) and return in the afternoon.
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