Kadıköy — Istanbul's Hip Heart
Kadıköy is to Istanbul what Kreuzberg is to Berlin: a creative, vibrant, multicultural district on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, rapidly developing into the gastronomic and cultural epicenter of Istanbul. Here, there are no mosques and palaces as main attractions — here, it's the people, the food, and the atmosphere.
Kadıköy Market (Çarşı)
The Kadıköy Market is the best food market in Istanbul — and that's no exaggeration. In a maze of covered alleys and open stalls, you'll find:
- Fresh Fish: Shiny sea bream, sea bass, Hamsi (anchovies) — straight from the Bosphorus.
- Cheese: Dozens of Turkish cheese varieties — Beyaz Peynir (soft cheese), Kaşar (hard cheese), Van Otlu (herb cheese from Eastern Anatolia).
- Spices & Olives: Mountains of Pul Biber, sumac, cumin, and 20 varieties of olives.
- Baklava & Sweets: The best baklava shops are here — not at the Spice Bazaar. Try the baklava at Güllüoğlu or Baylan.
- Street Food: Kokoreç (grilled lamb intestines in bread — sounds adventurous, tastes fantastic), Midye dolma (stuffed mussels), Tantuni (beef wrap).
Moda — Istanbul's Riviera
South of Kadıköy lies Moda — a quiet, tree-lined district with Art Nouveau houses, independent cafés, and a seafront promenade that is among the most beautiful in Istanbul. The Moda Pier offers a stunning view of the European side's skyline. Young Istanbulites sit in the cafés over their laptops, families play in the parks — the pace is noticeably slower than in Beyoğlu.
- Moda Promenade: 2 km waterfront path from Kadıköy to Fenerbahçe Park — perfect for jogging, walking, or just sitting and watching.
- Cafés: Moda has the highest café density in Istanbul — Third-Wave coffee shops like Walter's Coffee, Café Fazıl, or Montag line up one after another.
- Fenerbahçe Park: At the end of the peninsula: a large park with a beach, tea gardens, and the stadium of Fenerbahçe (Istanbul's football rival of Galatasaray).
💡 Tipp
The best plan for the Asian side: In the morning, take the ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy (20 min., €0.50), explore the market, enjoy Kahvaltı (Turkish breakfast) in one of the breakfast cafés, then walk to Moda, have coffee at the Moda Pier, and return by ferry in the evening — the return trip at sunset is magical.