Serra Malagueta & the Green Highlands
Those who see Santiago only as a beach island miss the best part: The island's interior is a green highland that rises dramatically above the coastal plains. In the north-central area lies the Parque Natural da Serra Malagueta, a mountain range that rises to 1,064 meters and is characterized by cloud forests, deep gorges, and terraced fields.
Hiking in the Serra Malagueta
The nature park offers some of the best hiking routes in Cape Verde. The trails lead over narrow paths along steep slopes, through valleys with sugar cane and cassava, and past small villages where time seems to have stood still. The views are breathtaking: In clear weather, you can see all the way to the north coast and the neighboring islands.
- Serra Malagueta Circular (4–5 hours): The classic — a circular route over the mountain ridge with panoramic views in all directions. Start at the park entrance near Assomada. Moderately difficult, but slippery when wet.
- Serra Malagueta → Hortelã do Monte (3 hours): Descent from the summit through terraced fields and villages into the valley. Spectacular gorges, tropical vegetation. One-way — return transfer by Aluguer.
- Assomada → Rui Vaz (2–3 hours): Easier hike through the agricultural heart of the island. Terraced fields, goats, friendly farmers who offer you Grogue.
Assomada
The mountain town of Assomada (approx. 12,000 inhabitants) is the gateway to the Serra Malagueta and the place where rural Santiago is most vibrant. The Assomada Market (Wednesday and Saturday) is the largest on the island: mountains of fruits and vegetables, live chickens, goats, bottles of Grogue, and rolls of fabric. No tourists in sight — here you experience the most authentic Cape Verde.
Tarrafal
On the north coast of Santiago lies Tarrafal, a sleepy fishing village with the most beautiful bathing beach on the island: a sheltered bay with warm, calm water, coconut palms, and a gentle sandy beach. No tourist buses come here — only locals who picnic on weekends and a few travelers who have found their way here. The former concentration camp (Campo de Concentração do Tarrafal), where the Portuguese colonial power interned political prisoners, is now a museum and a harrowing testament to colonial history.
💡 Tipp
For hikes in the Serra Malagueta, a local guide is recommended (20–30€ per day). The trails are sometimes poorly marked, and a guide knows not only the way but also the stories of the villages, the plants, and the people. Ask at the park administration at the entrance or in Assomada.
