Nyhavn, Christianshavn & the Water
Nyhavn — The Postcard Face of Copenhagen
Nyhavn (New Harbor) is the image everyone associates with Copenhagen: a narrow canal lined with colorful gabled houses from the 17th and 18th centuries, historic wooden sailing ships at the quay, restaurants, and bars with canal views. It's kitschy beautiful — and at the same time authentically lively.
History
Nyhavn was dug in 1671 as a trading port — Swedish prisoners of war did the work. In the 18th and 19th centuries, it was a rough sailors' quarter: brothels, pubs, brawls. Hans Christian Andersen lived here at three different addresses (Nos. 20, 67, and 18) and wrote some of his most famous fairy tales in Nyhavn. Today, it is Copenhagen's most popular promenade — upscale, but not stiff.
The Experience
- Sunny Side: The northern side of the canal (odd house numbers) is in the sun — here the restaurant terraces line up. Expensive, but the atmosphere is unbeatable. A beer on the terrace: from 70 DKK (9€).
- Quay Wall: Free and at least as atmospheric: Sit on the quay wall, buy a beer in the supermarket (15 DKK / 2€), and enjoy the view. The Copenhageners do the same.
- The Ships: The historic wooden ships at the quay are restored trading and fishing vessels. Some are available for tours, others serve as floating bars.
- The Nyhavn Anchor: At the end of the canal stands a large anchor — the monument to the Danish sailors who fell in World War II.
Tipp
Nyhavn is most beautiful in the afternoon light when the sun illuminates the colorful facades. Best: sit on the quay wall, grab a beer from the 7-Eleven or Netto at Kongens Nytorv (15–20 DKK instead of 70 DKK on the terrace), and enjoy the hustle and bustle. At 7–8 AM, Nyhavn is almost empty — perfect for photos without crowds.
Christianshavn — Canals & Bohemia
Christianshavn is located on an artificial island east of the old town and is Copenhagen's Amsterdam corner: canals, houseboats, colorful houses, and a relaxed, bohemian atmosphere. The district was established in the 17th century by Christian IV as a trading and military port and has retained its character as an independent, somewhat rebellious quarter.
The Canals
The Christianshavn Canal is one of the most picturesque places in Copenhagen: houseboats, willows on the banks, duck families, cafes by the water. The canal is surrounded by a walking path that invites you to linger on a sunny afternoon. The canal tours (from 80 DKK / 11€) start in Nyhavn and lead through the canals of Christianshavn — one of the most beautiful ways to see Copenhagen.
Vor Frelsers Kirke — The Spiral Tower
The Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke) has Scandinavia's most famous church tower: an external spiral staircase that spirals 90 meters into the sky — 400 steps, the last outside at the top of the tower, getting narrower until you stand on a tiny platform with a view over all of Copenhagen, the Øresund, and as far as Sweden. Not for the faint-hearted! Admission: 65 DKK (9€). Long queues in summer — come early or book online.
Harbor Baths
Copenhagen's harbor is so clean that you can swim in it — and the Danes do so enthusiastically. The main harbor baths:
- Islands Brygge Havnebad: The most popular harbor bath with five pools (including a diving pool with a 5-meter tower). Free. Crowded in summer — atmosphere like at the beach.
- Kalvebod Bølge: Architectural wave formation (Bølge = wave) with diving boards, kayak rental, and sun terraces. Free.
- Sandkaj Havnebad: In the new district of Nordhavn, modern design, less crowded.
Christiania — The Free Town
The Free Town of Christiania is one of Europe's most fascinating social experiments — and one of the most controversial. In 1971, squatters occupied an abandoned military site in Christianshavn and founded a self-governing community with its own rules, infrastructure, and a radical vision of freedom and community.
What is Christiania?
On 34 hectares, about 900 people live in self-built, often fantastically creative houses: from tree houses to eco-houses to converted military barracks. There are its own kindergartens, workshops, a music house (Loppen), restaurants (Morgenstedet — vegetarian restaurant, Café Nemoland), and art studios. Christiania has no private property — everything belongs to the community.
What to Expect?
- The Architecture: The self-built houses are fascinating — creative, colorful, often made from recycled materials. Some look like hobbit houses, others like small castles. A walk through the residential areas (outside the main path) is an experience.
- The Nature: Christiania is located by a lake and has surprisingly much greenery: community gardens, wildflower meadows, fruit trees. The atmosphere is calmer and greener than one might expect.
- Art & Music: Street art, sculptures, murals — Christiania is an open-air gallery. The Loppen (concert house) and the Operaen offer live music.
- The Controversy: The former "Pusher Street" (marijuana sales street) was demolished by the residents themselves in 2023/2024 and replaced by new buildings — a historic turning point. Christiania is in transition but remains an alternative community.
Achtung
Photography is not allowed in parts of Christiania — signs indicate this. Respect the privacy of the residents. Christiania is not a zoo — it is a place of residence. Walk respectfully and curiously, not gawking. The main entrance is on Prinsessegade. Admission: free.
Kastellet & The Little Mermaid
Kastellet — The Star Fortress
The Kastellet is one of the best-preserved star fortresses in Northern Europe: five bastions, a moat, windmill, church, and soldiers' barracks — all in their original state since the 17th century. It is still an active military site, but the ramparts and parks are open to the public. A walk on the ramparts offers beautiful views over the harbor and is a perfect contrast to the hustle and bustle of the city. Free and beautiful in every season — especially in autumn with colorful leaves and in winter with frost.
The Little Mermaid (Den lille Havfrue)
The Little Mermaid has been sitting on her rock at the Langelinie promenade since 1913 — and is Copenhagen's most famous (and controversial) landmark. The bronze statue (only 1.25 meters high) was commissioned by brewer Carl Jacobsen (Carlsberg), inspired by Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tale and the ballet at the Royal Theatre.
Expectation management: The statue is small. Really small. Surrounded by tourists with selfie sticks. Many visitors are disappointed. But if you go at 7 AM, when the light falls on the Øresund and you are alone with her, she has her charm. She also has a turbulent history: The head was sawn off twice (1964, 1998), an arm was severed (1984), she was sprayed with paint and dressed in a burkini. She survives everything.
Tipp
The perfect morning walk: Start at Kastellet (over the ramparts), continue to the Little Mermaid (before 9 AM to avoid the crowds), then along the Langelinie promenade back to the harbor. Duration: 45–60 minutes. Free and relaxing.
Stadtrundgang
Nyhavn, Christianshavn & Christiania
From Nyhavn over the canals to Christiania and back via the Spiral Tower — Copenhagen's most diverse route.
Nyhavn
Start at the iconic canal. Beer on the quay wall, Hans Christian Andersen's houses (Nos. 20, 67, 18).
20 min.Inderhavnsbroen
The elegant pedestrian and cyclist bridge over the inner harbor. View of the Opera and Christianshavn.
10 min.Christianshavn Canal
Walk along the canals with houseboats, willows, and the charm of a village in the big city.
15 min.Christiania
Through the main entrance (Prinsessegade) into the Free Town. Walk through the residential areas, Café Nemoland.
45–60 min.Vor Frelsers Kirke
Climb the Spiral Tower (400 steps, last section outside). Panoramic view. 65 DKK.
30–40 min.Reffen / Paper Island
Street food market on Refshaleøen — food from around the world, harbor view, relaxed atmosphere.
30 min.War dieses Kapitel hilfreich?
