Camagüey

Camagüey (325,000 inhabitants) is Cuba's third-largest city and the most unusual: Its UNESCO-protected old town labyrinth (since 2008) was intentionally designed to be confusing — the winding, crisscrossing streets were meant to mislead pirates and invaders. Unlike the grid-like colonial cities, Camagüey is a maze where you can wonderfully lose yourself.

The city's landmark is the Tinajas — giant clay jars (up to 2 m high) that have been used for rainwater storage since colonial times and are found all over the city: in courtyards, in front of churches, on squares. A legend says that anyone who drinks from a Tinajón will return to Camagüey forever.

Sights

• Plaza de los Trabajadores: The main square with the Iglesia de la Merced (1748), whose interior impresses with elaborate frescoes and a silver altar decoration. The birthplace of the national poet Ignacio Agramonte is a museum (2 €).
• Plaza del Carmen: The most charming square with life-sized bronze statues of everyday people: a man reading a newspaper, a woman pushing a stroller, a couple whispering. Perfect photo opportunity.
• Plaza San Juan de Dios: Cuba's best-preserved colonial square — the yellow baroque church and the former hospital (1728, now a cultural center) form a picturesque ensemble.
• Calle República: The long pedestrian zone with shops, cafes, and street musicians. Cuba's liveliest shopping street.

Practical Information

Camagüey is halfway between Trinidad and Santiago (each about 4–5 hours by bus). Ideal as a stopover on the eastern route. Half a day to a full day is enough for the old town. Overnight in one of the excellent Casas (20–30 €), often in beautiful colonial houses with courtyards and Tinajón.